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Jingles

clutch issue

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Jingles

73-12hp-8...the clutch engages all at once. There is no smooth take off.just wondering how hard it is to replace .

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scotty

Maybe it is the clutch spring. The "clutch" is an idler pulley which disengages the drive belt. Does it grind going into gear? If so it could be the drive belt.

Edited by scotty

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Jingles

Nope no grinding when going in to gear. just takes off really hard.will pull the front end off the ground in high gear! The belt looks good. I'll have to check the spring and idler. Thanks

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stevasaurus

There really is no clutch like you are thinking.  Like was said above, letting up on the pedal moves the tension pulley in a position to tighten the slack in the belt.  You might also try taking off the belt guard and belt and cleaning the 3 pulleys with mineral spirits...if they are dirty and sticky...they would cause this.  Did this horse always do this, or is this new??  You can also start out at a slower idle.  Just know that you should not shift gears while moving...only shift at a complete stop.  Start out in the gear you want to use.  You may just need to clean the pulleys and start out at a lower idle...after you check the spring.  :)

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oldlineman

not sure if this pertains to your horse but my 1989 414-8 has a damper that lets the clutch pulley move a little slower to engage belt slower

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pfrederi

If this problem has been around for awhile i would look at the belt closely.  Is it a wheel horse belt?  I use afters market belts a lot but not on the manual trannies.  The after market (Gates Power rated) seem to be very jerky engaging.  That is one place I use Toroa/WH belts.

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Racinbob

:text-yeahthat: I agree 100% on Toro belts for the drive on manuals. There's others that work but I just stick to Toro. Clean the pulleys like Steve mention and inspect everything. I doubt that the spring is the problem because it would just weaken or break. Two types of damper systems were used but you have neither. One was a strut that pushed the idler arm to engage the belt and didn't use a spring. The other used a spring to pull the idler and a damper to ease it. My 2005 had the latter type and it drove me nuts. I removed the damper and just utilized the spring that worked so well for Wheel Horses for decades. I've never had any issues when things are right. :)

 

:WRS:

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Jingles

Thanks for the info. Gonna try a toro belt first. Anyone have a correct part # for a 73-12-8?. Every thing else looks good. 

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gwest_ca
9 minutes ago, Jingles said:

Thanks for the info. Gonna try a toro belt first. Anyone have a correct part # for a 73-12-8?. Every thing else looks good. 

The transmission drive belt has been added to this page

Garry

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Jingles

Thanks garry

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Jingles

OK pulled the guard and it has the correct belt. it does show a little wear but nothing major. Took the belt off and cleaned all 3 pulleys and the spring seems to be strong enough. Put it back together and now it grinds and won't go into gear.with the tractor running and in gear the with the clutch pedal depressed the belt will stop but if you put it in neutral with the clutch pedal depressed the belt will start turning and will grind when trying to put it in gear.!! Not sure what I'm missing here but it seemed to work fine till I took the belt off and cleaned the pulleys 

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Racinbob

You must have the belt guard on for it to stop the belt. Also make sure the tab on the front of the guard is within 1/8" of the belt. :)

Also, the belt may look good but it still could be a problem. :)

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Jingles

Yes I just saw another post about the belt being covered in fabric.gonna try a new belt and put the guard on. Thanks 

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stevasaurus

I wish I had a nickel for every time that I have typed..."you need to have the belt guard on...it is your clutch".  :)

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