daveoman1966 3,637 #26 Posted June 17, 2016 Unless u need to buy some soup and crackers for the kids, or momma needs a new pair of shoes,....keep the headlight lens. They can be had for about $37 on Ebay and $37 won't get you a very good pair of shoes....maybe some sandals. Besides, you'll probably need the lens for your next Wheelhorse (can't own just 1.) 6 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse46 516 #27 Posted June 17, 2016 Keep the lights, it would be like removing the eye's, not nice. I have no lights but a light lens just so my has a face. nice looking C series. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 60,249 #28 Posted June 17, 2016 6 hours ago, daveoman1966 said: Unless u need to buy some soup and crackers for the kids, or momma needs a new pair of shoes,....keep the headlight lens. They can be had for about $37 on Ebay and $37 won't get you a very good pair of shoes....maybe some sandals. Besides, you'll probably need the lens for your next Wheelhorse (can't own just 1.) Someone on here said this last week about a $60 purchase (I think the new Lawn Ranger post?) something like that's a trip to Olive Garden for 2. Other words, not worth selling off a worker. Great machine you've got there @Devron30! I've got a 77 or 78 C-101 that I've begun to use for all yard chores while I think about tearing my old 502 down for a resto-mod and am really liking the ability and reliability of the big block Kohler and the attacha-matic features of going from the mowing deck to the tiller in a matter of 20 minutes or so. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TDF5G 2,054 #29 Posted June 17, 2016 (edited) I agree. I'd leave the lights on your . They came with the tractor and belong on it. They look good too. You'll need 'em one of these days nights also I'd wager! Edited June 17, 2016 by TDF5G 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Uncle Buck 246 #30 Posted June 17, 2016 Add another vote for keeping your machine as it is. Even a worker looks better as a complete machine. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ronhatch 405 #31 Posted June 17, 2016 (edited) I know this is going to go over like a lead balloon, BUT if you're "going to beat it up" and sell parts off of it, why not get a MTD or a old Crapsman and sell the WH to someone like T-MO that will keep it intact and maybe even restore it? I'm sorry, but I like to see old stuff brought back to life and made as good or better then when it was new, not turned into scrap. . Edited June 17, 2016 by ronhatch 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Devron30 22 #32 Posted June 17, 2016 (edited) 18 minutes ago, ronhatch said: I know this is going to go over like a lead balloon, BUT if you're "going to beat it up" and sell parts off of it, why not get a MTD or a old Crapsman and sell the WH to someone like T-MO that will keep it intact and maybe even restore it? I'm sorry, but I like to see old stuff brought back to life and made as good or better then when it was new, not turned into scrap. . Ha I hear what you're sayin but I bought this WH for the reputation the machine has for being work horse and wanted to buy something right the first time rather then buy the mtd, craftsman brands and have it break down after a year of work lol. Edited June 17, 2016 by Devron30 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,365 #33 Posted June 17, 2016 Devron, I also think you need to keep it intact. You will regret selling things off of it. If you want to sell the seat, I can buy you one, and you can sell it to me, but if I was you, I'll keep it. You got a good tractor there and keeping it as complete and original as possible is pretty special, in my opinion. It will last you a lifetime, and those old Kohlers are worth rebuilding if it ever comes to that. I am bummed that I didn't get the tractor, but not at you nor at the seller. You both did the right thing and it was my own schedule that made me missed buying it. No one's to blame, but maybe myself. I am looking at a tractor listed here in the classified section, but it's in Lexington, Kentucky. A long haul for me, but if I do get it, it comes with a snow blade that I may not need. So I could sell it to you, provided you want it and I do buy that package. It's a big if since the distance is really holding me back. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Devron30 22 #34 Posted June 19, 2016 Hey guys, I'm trying to remove the rear hitch so I can install my sleeve hitch. Any idea on how you get the big pin out that holds rear hitch on? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daveoman1966 3,637 #35 Posted June 19, 2016 If that pin is REALLY REALLY stuck....rusted to the trans case, you MAY have to drill it out. The pin is relatively soft and drills easily with a good drill bit(s). Cut it off flush with on each side, mark for center, then drill a 1/8 pilot hole, then open up to 1/4...1/2 etc progressively. (it'll probably break free with a 1/2 hole thru it. Don't hammer on it from either side...you'll flare-out the ends of it. I have used a round-point punch is my pneumatic hammer with success, after soaking it for a couple days in some rust penetrant. An acetylene torch to heat it up?...... dunno, never tried that. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Devron30 22 #36 Posted June 20, 2016 On June 19, 2016 at 10:15 AM, daveoman1966 said: If that pin is REALLY REALLY stuck....rusted to the trans case, you MAY have to drill it out. The pin is relatively soft and drills easily with a good drill bit(s). Cut it off flush with on each side, mark for center, then drill a 1/8 pilot hole, then open up to 1/4...1/2 etc progressively. (it'll probably break free with a 1/2 hole thru it. Don't hammer on it from either side...you'll flare-out the ends of it. I have used a round-point punch is my pneumatic hammer with success, after soaking it for a couple days in some rust penetrant. An acetylene torch to heat it up?...... dunno, never tried that. Any idea where I can find a new bolt for this once I get it out? Thanks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 5,088 #37 Posted June 20, 2016 You can just go to TSC and get a 3/4" draw pin of the correct length. Never seize or grease it up so it comes out next time. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Devron30 22 #38 Posted June 20, 2016 (edited) 20 minutes ago, cleat said: You can just go to TSC and get a 3/4" draw pin of the correct length. Never seize or grease it up so it comes out next time. Does it need to be a certain grade pin? Thanks Edited June 20, 2016 by Devron30 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 5,088 #39 Posted June 20, 2016 Those draw pins are made for large farm tractors. I don't think a Wheel horse would break even the cheapest one they sell. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
roadapples 6,981 #41 Posted June 21, 2016 Are there "sirs" on here Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daveoman1966 3,637 #42 Posted June 21, 2016 here is the TSC draw pin..... under $10 bux. (not the 2 red spacers though) it is 3/4" dia....about 6" long, or whatever you need...they have different sizes. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Devron30 22 #43 Posted June 22, 2016 Another question. How does this sleeve hitch hook up??? . I know where it hooks to the sleeve hitch itself, I just don't know how to attach the cable to the deck lever and attach all the cable pieces together. Mostly the red piece next to hitch. Thanks guys!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bslms 19 #44 Posted June 23, 2016 I like the rear tires on your tractor. I have a 314-8 with the original turf tires and want to switch to Ag tires. Would you post the size please? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
