Any help with a Kohler 321 would be appreciated.

[MWR 321]

Here's the deal.  My GT-14 engine threw the rod.  And before you ask, yes it was low on oil.  There is no excuse, but it had gotten to where I couldn't keep oil in it.  The motor had been getting weaker as time passed.  Probably should have parked it and fixed it earlier, but I didn't and what's done is done.

 

I need some advice and maybe some parts.  The crank does not look to bad.  Has anyone here ever had one turned?  The micrometer sezs 1 inch now, so I assume it has not been turned.

 

And if turning the crank is not the answer, does anyone know where I could get my hands on a used crank?

 

At some time the bore has been bored out twenty thousands, at least that is what is stamped on the piston.  The cylinder walls look to be in good shape, maybe a good honing would be all they need.

 

It doesn't look like there is any damage to the block or any of the internal parts, except the rod.

 

Assuming I can get the crank turned, is there any rods made that are oversized to fit a turned crank?

 

Then I may need help with getting the cam and the two other gears in time.  These two gears are heaver on one side, so I figured they may be some kind of balancers.

 

And by the way, does anyone here have a 14hp or 16hp kohler to sell?

 

If anyone can help, I'd appreciate it.  Gotta run and I will check back in Monday.  Thanks

[953 nut 60,220]

  Sorry to hear about that, take a look at this thread, it is for the small block but most of the information is about the same.

Kohler_Guide_To_Engine_Rebuilding_19890900 (1).pdf

 

Edited June 4, 2016 by 953 nut

[KC9KAS 4,744]

I had a crank turned and bought an undersized rod for a 16hp Kohler.

I have not had time to start putting it back together yet.

[MWR 321]

GT-14, minus engine.

 

 

Loaded on a two-wheeler and headed for the shed.

 

Piston located at the bottom of the cylinder, and it wouldn't come back up. Yep, those are the latest in mechanical shoes.

 

 

Set it on the lift table and jacked it up to the table top.

 

 

 

 

Wonder if this will buff out?

 

 

[MWR 321]

 

[MWR 321]

 

[953 nut 60,220]

Putting that crank journal in a bowl of sodium hydroxide (caustic soda) or muriatic acid will remove the aluminum, if you use the acid be sure to check it frequently to see that it is not etching the crank. rubber gloves and face shield are a must for both.

[MWR 321]

On 6/6/2016 at 1:39 PM, 953 nut said:

Putting that crank journal in a bowl of sodium hydroxide (caustic soda) or muriatic acid will remove the aluminum, if you use the acid be sure to check it frequently to see that it is not etching the crank. rubber gloves and face shield are a must for both.

 

I may try the muriatic acid. How long would you recommend to soak the crank?

[rmaynard 16,342]

I soaked mine overnight with no etching. I used the muriatic acid from the paint department at Home Depot, so it wasn't too strong. It doesn't take long so if you start in the morning, check it a couple of times during the day. After the aluminum is off, take the crank to a machine shop and ask them to measure it for not only diameter, but egg shape or flat spots. Not uncommon on an old crankshaft. If they tell you it needs to be turned, ask them how much, and what size rod to get. If you were running low on oil, there may be other areas of the engine that were affected like the piston, rings, and bore, not to mention the camshaft and valve guides. A good small engine machinist can measure all that, and if he thinks he will be getting the machine work, he may do it for free or just a small fee.