BigR 3 #1 Posted April 28, 2016 (edited) First off I want to thank everyone on here for all of their advice and openness to share all of this great information. I so glad a forum like this is out there for Wheel Horse enthusiasts to share and learn. I'm on the learning side of that!! I'm planning to change the engine and trans oil on my newly acquired 520. I actually picked it up last fall and put standard 10W-30 with a FRAM filter in the Onan for the winter snow blowing. Just wanted to check if anyone had any suggestions as to which oils ( regular, synthetic, blend) and filters have worked best for them. When I bought the tractor it came with a new OEM trans filter, so I should be good with that filter. If anyone else has any other spring service suggestions other than the oils and filters please let me know. FYI- I am planning to adjust the valves and clean the carbon off the heads once I get the garden tilling done in a few weeks. Thanks for the help! Edited April 28, 2016 by BigR Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 42,108 #2 Posted April 28, 2016 (edited) to Big R. I'm sure many members will offer opinions on the best oil and filters. I'm glad to head you plan to adjust valves and decarbon.. You will clean all the cooling fins when you have the tins off for sure. Also check for any oil leaks around the oil filter base plate. Edited April 28, 2016 by Ed Kennell Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BigR 3 #3 Posted April 28, 2016 Thanks Ed! I unfortunately learned that lesson the hard way on my 1991 416-8 last summer. She finally dropped the valve seat at 1750 hours. I always wanted a 520, so I guess that's the upside. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WVHillbilly520H 10,376 #4 Posted April 28, 2016 (edited) Ckeck out my post "Good Friday" 520 clean up...I use Castrol GTX oils the high mileage is synthetic blended and has seal conditioners, depends on average temps straight 30w to 10w30 in the engine 10w30 only in the hydro,I usually use the factory Onan engine filter and the Toro hydro filter most use the NAPA/Wix filters engine and hydro, I think Fram is not a very good choice for anything period my ,clean every thing with compressed air garden hose or pressure washer then air dry it again, check air filter and crankcase breather/vent (how to in owners manual) check drive belts, that should pretty much cover the most of it, and blow it out/off after each mowing session, Jeff , you made 1700+ hrs before think you have a good handle on all the basics... Edited April 28, 2016 by WVHillbilly520H Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 51,853 #5 Posted April 28, 2016 First off from a fellow Wisconsinite & Go Bucky! Yes lose the Fram filter and go with a wix/napa 1410 on the hydro. Another member here cut open a bunch of different filters and found the frams aren't worth what you pay for them. I use 5w30 syn in both the hydro and the engine but I do alot of cold starts & blowing in the winter. Lots of guys here feel the syn runs a little better in the winter. I forget the number for the engine filter # but the guy at napa will know. There is a long & short version of the that filter - get the long one. Do a search here on 520 and you will find endless tips! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 7,263 #6 Posted April 28, 2016 1 hour ago, WHX61/3 said: First off from a fellow Wisconsinite & Go Bucky! Yes lose the Fram filter and go with a wix/napa 1410 on the hydro. Another member here cut open a bunch of different filters and found the frams aren't worth what you pay for them. I use 5w30 syn in both the hydro and the engine but I do alot of cold starts & blowing in the winter. Lots of guys here feel the syn runs a little better in the winter. I forget the number for the engine filter # but the guy at napa will know. There is a long & short version of the that filter - get the long one. Do a search here on 520 and you will find endless tips! I agree, the long one is better as you can get it off and on easier as the short one comes almost flush to the engine tins. Sometimes the long one is a tight squeeze to get in and out but it will fit. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BigR 3 #7 Posted April 29, 2016 Thanks everyone! I just got in from changing the engine oil and only draining the trans. My filter wrench wasn't big enough for the hydro filter, so I'll have to finish that end tomorrow night. I'm going to use Mobile 1 10W-30 for both. One thing that surprised me was the owners manual said the engine oil capacity with filter was 3 qts. I put in 2 1/2 qts, ran the engine for a minute or so, and checked the level. The oil level was way over the full mark, so I had to drain about a qt out again. What does everyone else see on their machines? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
608KEB 796 #8 Posted April 29, 2016 My manual states oil capicity 1.7 quarts with new filter. 1.5 quarts with oil change only. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cheesegrader 433 #9 Posted April 30, 2016 Hydro filters are Wix 51410 or Napa 1410, Toro108335 or 79-5270 Oil filters are Wix 51762 or Napa 1762 I get the Wix filters by the dozen from an internet fleet supply company for about half the cost of the Napa's The Toro hydro filter is almost $25! I use Amsoil 10-30 in the hydro. Seems to help reduce warm-up time in the winter in Wausau and Watersmeet. I use O'reilly 10-30 synthetic (Mobil 1) in the winter, and straight 30W Rotella in the summer. I vent the belt guard on all my 520's to try to get more airflow across the rear cylinder. I also replace all the phillips head screws on the center panels with stainless button head bolts. The screws rust and strip. Keep the cooling fins clean, check for leaks around the oil drain tube--a little oil leads to grass sticking around the rear cylinder. I'd also look at the wiring around the fuse block and the 9-pin connector, check for melting or discoloration. Both are common causes of electrical gremlins. I think you will like the 520. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites