Phatboy 565 #1 Posted April 13, 2016 Ok guys when i bought my 520 i brought it home and found the right side rear hub loose.. So not knowing how long it was like that i bought a brand new hub,, new keyway,,and new set screws,, and all was good ,, so yesterday and today i plowed my garden with bottom plow and said to my self , just for the hell of it let me check that wheel again,, so i jacked it up and sure enough it was loose again,, now when i put the new hub and keyway and set screws on i used red locktight,, and torqed the set screws down to 32 ft lbs ( manual says 28-32 ft lbs) let sit over night so lock tight could dry.. The new keyway is tight in the slot everything looks good,,, so can someone help me with this problem ? What is the solution to keeping hub tight,, its on my last nerve,, thanks guys,,, Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daveoman1966 3,841 #2 Posted April 13, 2016 use hub with TWO locking screws...like these. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 42,279 #3 Posted April 13, 2016 I replaced some of my set screws with socket head cap screws with lock nuts. I prefer UNBRAKOs if I can get them. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
scotty 252 #4 Posted April 13, 2016 I put a normal 3/8 bolt in my b-80 havent had an issue since. my hubs are in pretty bad shape but helped alot. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ol550 830 #5 Posted April 13, 2016 Was the axle and hub oil film free when you used the loctite? Did you use loctite primer? I had problems with a GT-14 That kept coming loose and the hubs were loose on the axles. I found some .002 shim-stock and cut it to fit inside the hub. Cleaned everything with brake clean, primed, and red loctite. Used for 3 years now with filled tires on snow blower duty and have not moved at all. Just hope I don't need to pull them off. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Phatboy 565 #6 Posted April 13, 2016 (edited) Yea my hubs have 2 set screws in each hub now,, ok if they loosen up again ill try and put regular grade 8 bolts and nylon lock nuts on there and try that,,, but keep the ideas coming please... Edited April 13, 2016 by Phatboy 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shallowwatersailor 3,214 #7 Posted April 13, 2016 Hopefully you are not torquing the locknut as well. If you are, you are actually loosening the set screw as it will "raise" the setscrew. I'm not sure I would use red locktite on something you may need to take apart. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
doc724 925 #8 Posted April 13, 2016 Make sure you are using NEW, grade 8, cup point set screws. If you bought square head set screws, during torquing, an 8 point socket is handy if you have it, but a 12 point will work in a pinch Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Phatboy 565 #9 Posted April 13, 2016 (edited) Well i just went to lowes and got grade 8 bolts and lock nuts ,, we will do some more plowing tomorrow and see how they work .. If not ill hve to try something else..and no imnot torquing lock nuts just tighting them down with a wrench ... I torqued the bolts tho ,, manual says 28 to 32 ft lbs , but seing as they are new bolts i went to 40 ft lbs.. So we will see,, 2 hours ago, Ed Kennell said: I replaced some of my set screws with socket head cap screws with lock nuts. I prefer UNBRAKOs if I can get them. Im assuming a socket head cap screw means regular bolt lol.. Edited April 13, 2016 by Phatboy Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KC9KAS 4,744 #10 Posted April 14, 2016 1 hour ago, Phatboy said: Im assuming a socket head cap screw means regular bolt lol.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Phatboy 565 #11 Posted April 14, 2016 13 minutes ago, KC9KAS said: Aahhh allen head screw lmao,,, im from penciltucky lol dont know the high falutting names of stuff lol ,, thanks buddy !! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JAinVA 4,638 #12 Posted April 14, 2016 I think ol550 may have identified your problem.Once torqued, locktited and jam nutted and the hub gets loose anyway there is another reason.Check how the hub fits the axle.You should not see any slop.I'm not talking about the key or keyway.The hub should be a close sliding fit.If you get any wiggle of the axle to hub fit then theres the problem.JAinVA Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Phatboy 565 #13 Posted April 14, 2016 32 minutes ago, JAinVA said: I think ol550 may have identified your problem.Once torqued, locktited and jam nutted and the hub gets loose anyway there is another reason.Check how the hub fits the axle.You should not see any slop.I'm not talking about the key or keyway.The hub should be a close sliding fit.If you get any wiggle of the axle to hub fit then theres the problem.JAinVA The Hub and key way are brand new i bought them when i got the tractor cause the hub that was on there was loose.. I wasnt sure how long it was loose so i just replaced it all..and from what i am told the axel is made out of much harder steal than. The hub, so the hub should wear rather than the axel,, ( i serioisly hope).. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JAinVA 4,638 #14 Posted April 14, 2016 Phatboy, Not saying that the hub is the problem.I have seen a nylon bushed wheel wear out a steel axle.Just check out the fit.JAinVA Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Phatboy 565 #15 Posted April 14, 2016 Uuugg i hope it doesnt lossen up again and i have to have the axel replaced that is gonna be like 500 or 600 bucks.. Just when ya think ya finally get your horse the way ya want it another gremilin pops up and drains your bank account,, thos keeps up im gonna have to go green ,, lol Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 42,279 #16 Posted April 14, 2016 (edited) This is the SHCS I use. http://unbrako.com/advantages.htm Edited April 14, 2016 by Ed Kennell Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
