'95 416-H Brake Lever Roll Pin

[Blue Delta 35]

Hey Guys, 

 

I have searched high and low and scratched my head today, I am in the process of taking the panels off my 416-H (73421) and currently stuck on attempting to punch out the roll pin that is in the brake lever knob. The whole brake lever moves a lot even when locked in park (The silly "S" shape of the lever is to blame.) there is a lot of deflection when using a punch, it is obviously meant to hard to remove otherwise it would have fallen out already.

 

 

Do you guys just cut the plastic knob off? I am not sure why they went to this compared to the previous models had the lever through the tunnel access plate.

 

Any knowledge on this matter would be greatly appreciated, Thanks

Edited April 5, 2016 by Blue Delta
Spelling is hard

[KC9KAS 4,744]

Soak the pin with penetrating oil and get a roll pin punch the correct size.

Put a piece of 2 X 4 wood under the lever to the floor so the lever is solid, now get a big hammer (pliers to hold the punch) and drive it out!

 

Oh,

 

Edited April 5, 2016 by KC9KAS

[russellmc301 600]

penetrating oil is key

[Blue Delta 35]

Thanks guys, I am currently soaking it overnight, hopefully it does not go past round two!

Edited April 5, 2016 by Blue Delta

[Pollack Pete 2,273]

I've NEVER had any luck getting that knob off without destroying it.You'll bend the rod that goes through the saide panel way before that damn pin moves.

[TDF5G 2,073]

I'd try to drill it out before damaging the knob or the shaft.  Then you only have to replace the roll pin.

[pfrederi 18,690]

Most roll pins are spring steel and you will break the drill bit (don't ask how I know this).. KC's blocking and using a true roll pin punch to drive the pin right into the end grain of the 2x4, is a good idea

[Phatboy 565]

I just had a roll pin experiance myself,, and i sprayed with pb blaster then went to harbor freight and bought roll pin punches that would fit in my "Air Chissle" put the right punch in air chissle and in 2 seconds roll pin was laying on the floor,, air chissle is a awesome tool to get roll pins out and can be bought for like 20 bucks at HF,,,

[DougC 2,643]

Yeah, I agree. The proper size punch + penetrating oil + hammer and blocking. Once you get it moving it will come right out.

[cleat 7,259]

I got tired if that pin and at first replaced it with a clip then just switched all my machines over to the old style.

 

Works better and all panels can be removed without messing with pins.

 

Here is one of my 520's that has had the parking brake converted to old style by bolting in the old style brake latch then cutting the hole in the tunnel cover for it to stick up through.

 

I have since put a plug in the guard.

 

That does not answer your original question, my pin did come out with a pin punch.

 

[Blue Delta 35]

Thanks guys for all your replies, definitely sounds like a pain to remove.

 

16 minutes ago, cleat said:

I got tired if that pin and at first replaced it with a clip then just switched all my machines over to the old style.

 

Works better and all panels can be removed without messing with pins.

 

 

I have thought about changing it over, it certainly would speed up the job without playing with it, I think I can see where you had to drill holes to mount the brake switch as well as they moved it from the tunnel cover to the frame.

 

WH's are pretty rare in AUS (real ones not those lawn tractor ones) so most likely would need to order a new lever asm. and rubber knob. I will get price and avail for the pin and knob (as well as the old system) so that when round two comes I know I can cut it and remove the pin on the bench or convert it.

[cleat 7,259]

Levers are on ebay from time to time.

 

I don't bother with the brake light switches on mine because it you forget to take the brake off, the tractor motion control will not move so you get the hint pretty quick to release the brake.

 

I think I have one of the newer style ones with the knob intact that you can have for the price of shipping.

[roadapples 6,983]

[Blue Delta 35]

I have run some of the numbers at work, the Knob (128860) is listed as NLA from Toro, the older system is listed as "brake asm" is around the $70 AUD. I am not sure if the newer lever from a 315-8 will fit as they are half the price of the older one (it is has a longer lever).

 

Ebay has one for a C-145? for the $50 mark (inc. PP to Aus).

 

I looks like I will have to punch it out properly or stump up $100 for an alternative.

[cleat 7,259]

Here is the assembly apart.

Any or all of it can be yours for the cost of shipping if required.

 

 

Just let me know.

 

Cleat

[Blue Delta 35]

I have removed the pin cleanly from it's resting place and my sanity has been restored. It definitely needed the wood support under it, I drilled a hole in it so the pin was not being driven into the end grain of the timber.

 

Thanks for the offer Cleat, as that would have been much cheaper then anything over here even with shipping!!

 

I will make a thread in the Restorations section with more much loved pictures.

[cleat 7,259]

Great to hear. You can see the clip in the picture that I used instead of the pin on reassembly.

Just pull the pin, remove the knob and you can take the guard off with ease.

 

Good luck with your machine

 

Cleat