Engine trouble B115 wheelhorse

[amiga4001 33]

I purchased a B115 a year ago to pull a small trailer through the garden.

This worked out so nice ,I had to build more gadgets onto this tractor.

So next I build me a hydraulic pump onto the PTO which has already driven a logsplitter,great!

But now the engine has started to leak motoroil,from about everywhere on the engine.

The engine is also harder to start.

So I decided to take a look onto the oillevel and unscrewed the oillevel plug.

There was a lot of oil coming out as it was flooded with gasoline.

I then decided to take a look at the carburator if it wasn't flooding but this is ok.I also unplugged the elbow pipe but no signs off gasoline there.

So guessing my piston rings?

Is it worth the effort to replace only the pistonrings?Should I also replace the valveseats?Or just regrind them onto the old ones?

If so is there a repair manual available anywhere,to download or purchase?

If not is there a suitable replacement engine?With same crankshaft size/diameter.

 

 

[C-101plowerpower 1,606]

ten eerste welkom

 

must be the carb doing that, otherwise maybe the fuelpump if it has one

[953 nut 60,224]

Here is the engine manual you need.

As stated above, if the float is sticking or the needle valve isn't shutting off the fuel flow properly it will run past the carburetor into the crank case and dilute your oil. Change the oil, replace the needle and seat in the carb. and your problem should be resolved.

[Eric Friedrichsen 112]

My bet is the fuel pump diaphragm cracked and leaking gas directly into the crankcase.  I had this happen

on my old 57 Ford 6 and didn't know it till the oil pressure failed.

 

Eric

[953 nut 60,224]

If you find that the carburetor is not the culprit it could be a fuel pump as suggested by others. The fuel pump on the B&S engine is vacuum operated drawing the vacuum from the crank case. You could try mounting a temporary fuel tank above the engine routed directly to the carb. to eliminate the fuel pump and that potential fuel flow to the crank case. Run it and see how you do.

[amiga4001 33]

First Thanks for all the replies so far.

I forgot to mention the engine model: BS 253707 0131-01

It has no fuelpump just gravity doing it's work.

I also forgot to mention I let off the too much on oil.

After that I started and carefully removed the levelplug a bit,the oil was under much pressure.So high level crankcasepressure.

So that's also why I was thinking piston rings.

Carburator type is bs 491028

If anybody has a link for a overhaul kit?

And also if anybody has a tip for buying bs parts in the netherlands for a normal price!

 

Edited April 5, 2016 by amiga4001

[Howie 899]

That engine will throw oil all over the place when the oil fill plug is removed while running, even just cranking engine over. Piston rings may be bad

but that is not a great way to determine that. That oil slinger in there will do quite a job of pushing oil around. I also think the needle is not shutting

off the fuel flow. Those have a press in brass seat also that gets worn. Can be pulled out and replaced along with the needle. If I have seen leaker 

that is how I deal with it.

[C-101plowerpower 1,606]

look for your engine in here

http://www.briggsandstratton.com/us/en/~/media/Frequently%20Asked%20Questions/Engine/PDFs/Engine%20Accessories/master_parts_catalog_MS4185.pdf

then if you've found it punch the part number of said overhaul kit into Ebay's searchbox, most times there will be parts on there

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,510]

We do have the correct parts list in the library for 1983-1984 B-115's

Garry

[953 nut 60,224]

9 minutes ago, gwest_ca said:

correct parts list

Same one I posted yesterday.

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,510]

6 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

Same one I posted yesterday.

One digit different. I checked because thought I may have made a typo. Same operator manual but different parts list.

 

Garry

[T_J 11]

I have a 1981 B115, B&S 11hp (252707).

I probably had gas leaking into my oil also. I put a small fuel T fitting in fuel line with a second fuel shutoff. Also had similar fuel shutoff below tank in front of T fitting. After mowing I shut off gas, open up second valve that goes to air, and let motor run until it runs out of gas. Shop said I needed a new $155 carb last year + labor, which I probably do, but I’d rather keep my WH running for $11 (Auto Zone T fitting and second shut-off). I always ran mower out of gas at the end of each season, which didn’t seem to hurt anything, it is 35 years old this year with all original engine parts. I use non-ethanol 87 gasoline.

My B115 developed major crank seal oil leak this last fall (in 2015 Toro dealer said I needed new crank seal, which was not done). I put Bar’s Leaks ‘Concentrated Rear Main Seal Repair’ in fresh oil change on March 25, 2016 and ran engine 15 minutes; ran engine 15 minutes on March 26; mowed yard April 3 (1.5 hour); today April 5 zero noticeable leak (I have paint roller pan under engine area which extends beyond the frame, used paper towels and had wiped old leaked oil off top of frame in engine area). $7 for Bar’s Leak; have enough left in bottle for two more oil changes, which for me is two more years.

So for total of about $20. No fuel leaks (while engine is off) and no noticeable oil leaks. As of right this second anyway. ( I read somewhere that some people had put Ts in their fuel lines to drain gas out of tank. ) Engine starts easy, just as it always had.

Edited April 5, 2016 by T_J

[TDF5G 2,073]

I have a 1982 B-115 I bought last fall.  I haven't tried to start it yet.  PO said it runs but carb leaks.  My first thought was stuck needle probably.  May be a common problem with these.  Going to be a while before I get a chance to mess with it.  

[amiga4001 33]

I ordered a overhaul kit from ebay for my carburator,will have to wait to arrive was much cheaper in the usa then in europe.

Is there a chance the breather is also broken as it maybe is sucking in gasoline there?

Anyway to test the breather?

If I would do a compressiontest what kind off pressure should I be expecting?

I could also do a leaktest..a low pressure through the sparkplug with piston tdc and engine blocked to see if it leaks somewhere.

 

[T_J 11]

I had $350 of WH maintenance last year at the local Toro dealer (2 visits: blades sharpened/balanced, deck belt, fixed brakes, tune up, etc.). So maybe $20 will keep my B115 running this year. In 2015 the local Toro mechanic wanted to replace my carburetor, crankshaft, etc ($$$). I think I will go mow the yard now (4th 1.5 hour mow of this year).

Edited April 7, 2016 by T_J

[amiga4001 33]

I did a compression test with cold and warm engine.

About the same measurement 60psi so that's very low.

I am going to do a leak test to see where it leaks.

Is it worth the money to do a overhaul on this engine?

If it is wear in the cylinder then I need too let it drill out to oversize and put in a new piston about 200$ total.

I can buy a new chinese engine for about 700$ ..if the crankshaft size is ok?

Or I can buy me a Briggs and stratton for about 1000$ same question with crankshaft length.

The engine still starts up,maybe i'll just overhaul the carburator and see how long it lasts.

 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,510]

This engine likely has an ACR (automatic compression release) so a compression test is not valid. At one time they said to spin the B&S engines backwards and if it locked up with compression it was OK.

 

Garry

[T_J 11]

Bar's Leak update:

Few days after the 4^th 1.5-hour mowing there was some oil in the paint roller pan. I wiped pan with paper towels.

I mowed 5^th 1.5-hour time on Sunday April 17 (4 days of rain forecasted). Today (April 19) there is zero oil in pan. Oil level was just a little down, so it appears no gas is getting in oil (I run mower out of gas after mowing). I'll report if I have oil seal leakage this summer. I'll get new seal and eBay used oil pan installed later this year. If Bar's Leak ‘Concentrated Rear Main Seal Repair’ will work on this 35-year old vertical shaft 11 HP mower, it'd probably work on any mower. 

Edited April 19, 2016 by T_J

[953 nut 60,224]

Thanks for the update. Glad it worked for you and good information for all of us.  

[amiga4001 33]

I ut in a new needle and some other bits which came with the overhaul kit.

The engine even starts easy now,no more leaking happy tractor fan!

 

[T_J 11]

Have mowed yard 8 times (1:50 per mow) since adding Bar's Leak (14.7 hours). There is very little oil in the paint roller pan when I check it before mowing each time. Clean the pan each time with a paper towel. Today was 8th mow with Bar's Leak; mowed 2 times before adding Bar's Leak.

Edited May 20, 2016 by T_J

[953 nut 60,224]

Sounds like the Bar's Leak rely works. 

[T_J 11]

The 35-year old crank seal was leaking pretty bad before adding Bar's Leak. Wish I could fix my MF50 injector pump that easy (~$1000 reseal).