SylvanLakeWH 27,801 #1 Posted March 22, 2016 Have a side discharge deck that I use regularly. Rust starting to blow out the bolts holding the adjusting rod on the back... PO gave me a rear discharge that he picked up for the spindles...Neither is in great shape, but the rear discharge deck is in better shape while the wheels, rods etc are better on the side discharge. Perhaps I can cobble together a franked-rear discharge?... From the picks can you tell whether they might be compatible? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
N3PUY 1,031 #2 Posted March 22, 2016 I had a deck worse than yours. Cut and weld. Turned out good and saved a deck. Your old deck is heavier metal than that newer one which looks like there is a metal bar added between the two rear brackets. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 40,841 #3 Posted March 23, 2016 I just saved a 42" that was rotted across the front and rear like yours. I bolted and welded 1/6" thick steel INSIDE the deck across the front and back. All the support carriage and support wheels and rollers were bolted through the old and new steel. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daveoman1966 3,829 #4 Posted March 23, 2016 I have a 48" side disch deck that began to rot out at the right side gauge wheel, and a few other places. At the time, I was working for a tool & die shop and could procure stainless steel sheet metal thru the shop's sources (wholesale...cheap). I removed the 3 spindles and all the lift hardware, then cut a large sheet of cardboard to the shape of the flat underside of the deck, and then one piece to match the front wrap around and used this cardboard as a template to trim out the stainless sheet, to include the cut-out for the 3 spindles and deck lift hardware. With deck dismantled and on shop bench, I clamped the cut-out stainless sheet to the bottom side of the deck and the wrap-around to the front if it. Then a guy tig welded the front wrap-around to the flat sheet and I now have a STAINLESS STEEL LINER for my deck. I matched all of the bolt holes too, which holds the liner in place. I don't recall the gauge of stainless, but it is thinner than a dime, making it malleable to contour and easily cut. I did this in the early 90s, if not before then. To this day, the deck has no more rust on it.....none and will probably outlast me. Once a year, I stand it on end and pour used motor oil down between the stainless sheet metal and the deck shell. The only shortfall is that I had to cut away the deflector vane from the bottom side of the deck. I'm not concerned about that and my 2 acres of grass is happy with it too. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 40,841 #5 Posted March 23, 2016 I left the baffles in my deck and cut the rear panel in three pieces to fit around the baffle. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SylvanLakeWH 27,801 #6 Posted March 23, 2016 Thanks much for the input! Still wondering if the two are compatible? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
N3PUY 1,031 #7 Posted March 23, 2016 Either deck will fit your tractor. Swapping spindles should be easy if the aluminum housing isn't corroded away where the mounting bolts are. Go for it! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SylvanLakeWH 27,801 #8 Posted March 24, 2016 Thanks! Will do! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites