ChaplainManny 114 #1 Posted March 11, 2016 (edited) IMG_6720.mp4 Good afternoon RS brethren. As some of you may know, I recently bought a GT 14 with a Haban sickle attached to it. I was told the engine runs but we all know to take that with a grain of salt. So so far after cleaning the carb, and checking to see if there is spark, all the engine will do is turnover. I am am getting fuel in the carb's bowl, but it's just not starting. Any and all help is greatly appreciated. 3-10-16: after changing the spark plug for the new recommended plug with no new results, I pulled the head and found a stuck valve. IMG_6720.mp4 Edited March 11, 2016 by ChaplainManny Added video clip 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cafoose 3,448 #2 Posted March 11, 2016 Obviously something is keeping the valve from closing and that would mean no compression and no start. The only sure way I know to correct the problem is further disassembly. Maybe a broken valve or spring? Maybe camshaft not turning? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ztnoo 2,300 #3 Posted March 11, 2016 (edited) Manny, Sometimes valves can be freed up using a penetrating oil, WD40, even ATF. In a case where this technique would applied and be successful, it would likely be the valve and/or stem has corroded because the valve didn't seat when the engine was last shut down and was left open allowing moist atmospheric conditions to enter the combustion chamber through the open valve for a long period of time......generally meaning being left outside, uncovered, for a long time. I've not used this technique myself; that comes from some online info such as youtube But an open exhaust valve could also be bent, not allowing it to return to a close position or lift properly, in which case nothing you squirt or pour down that port will do anything to remedy a permanent, severe mechanical deficiency. Exhaust valves are more prone to failures and problems because the gases flowing around them are much hotter than the intake charge surrounding an intake valve. I had a exhaust valve fail on my K341 because the stem had completely broken, thus not allowing it to be lifted. It required a new valve and valve seat refacing to repair. Are you able to spin the valve at all? Have you tried to see if it will lift out of the exhaust port by attempting to lightly work something under the seat? If it pops out entirely, you'll need to install a new exhaust valve because the stem will be broken or the retainer has been damaged allowing the valve to be freely removed. Steve Edited March 12, 2016 by ztnoo 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MWR 321 #4 Posted March 11, 2016 Here something you learn from experience. DO NOT take a BFH and try to pound the valve down. And don't ask me how I know this............ 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ztnoo 2,300 #5 Posted March 13, 2016 Manny, Are you having any success in getting your K321 issues resolved??? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ChaplainManny 114 #6 Posted March 22, 2016 THE LASTEST ON MY NON-RUNNING GT 14. My valve spring compressor came today, so after my wife came home I went out to remove a stuck exhaust valve. I ended up having to EXTRACT the stinkin, stupid, stingy valve! Seriously, it took a whole lotta man-handling, pushing, and shoving before the darn thing finally gave up! I'm attaching a few photos of the valve. The overwhelming consensus of the Wheel Horse Junkies is to simply clean the valve, and valve guide, and reinstall it. I wish i had a more experienced eye when inspecting these parts! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 59,746 #7 Posted March 22, 2016 6 hours ago, ChaplainManny said: the stinkin, stupid, stingy valve! I see those vocabulary classes at Divinity Collage really came in handy. A little cleaning up and your valve should be fine. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites