1985 310-8 steering slop

[skrusins 128]

In upper shaft the console is egg shape in which the bearing sets in. I did do a

search and the only thing I was able to find were someone bolted a flange bearing

part no,6472. I would like to do more research on this. Can someone direct me to

get more ideas. Thanks you Guys are Great!

[cleat 7,242]

I drilled out the hole where the original bushing sat and installed a flange bearing the same as most Wheel Horse front wheels use.

 

This is on a 520 but yours may be able to have this done as well.

 

These are readily available, just get one with the right size center for your steering shaft (mine is 3/4").

 

Eliminated all the side to side play and because it is a ball bearing, steering effort is also slightly reduced.

 

Edited March 2, 2016 by cleat

[can whlvr 994]

I could not get my steering wheel off and didn't want to breal anything getting it off,i soaked it for months giving it a spray with pb blaster,kroil etc so I took some 1/4inch plate,cut it in the middle,ground the 3/4 hole in the 2 halves,its on an angle so I took my time and replicated the angle on both halves,then bolted it to the plate the battery sits on and it holds it tight and has for years,a few drops of oil and the shaft spins nice in my homemade bracket,i like the bearing idea better but like I said the wheel wasn't comin off,sorry no pics but photo bucket isn't workin for me today

[Ed Kennell 41,789]

I replaced the worn out plastic bushing in my commando 8 with a bronze flanged bushing from ACE hardware.  Of course I had to remove the steering wheel and bore out the hole to the larger bushing OD  I also added a set screw to lock the bushing in place.      If I  were not able to remove the wheel, I would have cut the shaft to replace the bushing and reassembled the shaft  with a sleeve and  roll pins after replacing the bushing.

[Retired Sparky 526]

18 hours ago, can whlvr said:

I could not get my steering wheel off and didn't want to breal anything getting it off,i soaked it for months giving it a spray with pb blaster,kroil etc so I took some 1/4inch plate,cut it in the middle,ground the 3/4 hole in the 2 halves,its on an angle so I took my time and replicated the angle on both halves,then bolted it to the plate the battery sits on and it holds it tight and has for years,a few drops of oil and the shaft spins nice in my homemade bracket,i like the bearing idea better but like I said the wheel wasn't comin off,sorry no pics but photo bucket isn't workin for me today

       I like that fix.      I've got the same problem, a floppy steering column.

Edited March 2, 2016 by Retired Sparky

[skrusins 128]

Thank You so much to all of you for your fix. I'll definitely use the one that will work the best for me.

Once again Thanks again, also the pics were great.

[tunahead72 2,543]

This is a common problem on the 300/400/500 series, not so much on earlier tractors.  I know there's lots of threads on this topic, so you might try another search to see what else is here.  There's one in particular from member sorekiwi that might work for you, I'll see if I can find it for you.

[tunahead72 2,543]

Here ya go, see if this helps:

 

[skrusins 128]

Thanks, seems like this may help also.

[Tankman 3,523]

I had this "un" engineered problem some time ago.

Thinking, 1/2" x 2" flat bar. Center hole, clearance for the steering shaft. Split down the center.

clamp on the shaft, bolt to the sheet metal.

Although I did get the roll pin out, couldn't get the steering wheel off.

I was removing the wheel center cap and filling the center with oil, like forever. No luck.

Lasted for years.

[can whlvr 994]

ya same here,but I couldn't even get the roll pin,and of coarse heat isn't an option,and at the time I didn't want to cut the shaft as it is close enough to my legs allready

[cleat 7,242]

If you are lucky enough to get the roll pin and/or wheel off don't forget to never-seize them when re-assembling.

 

They will come apart easily after that.

[Ed Kennell 41,789]

20 hours ago, can whlvr said:

 I didn't want to cut the shaft as it is close enough to my legs allready

Actually cutting the shaft does not shorten it. In fact you can then lengthen it to any height that is most comfortable for you.

[can whlvr 994]

how does that work,isnt it attached to the gear on the bottom,and back then I didn't have a welder too attach more metal

[Ed Kennell 41,789]

I cut the shafts about mid way where there is room to cut with 1/32" thick cut off wheel.  Then with both pieces off the tractor I use a 7/4"ID X1"OD sleeve to connect the two halves. The sleeve and shaft halves are drilled and pinned with a roll pin.  The roll pins easily take the torque from the steering wheel as the one in the wheel does.  I also tap the sleeve for set screws to help to hold the assembly in place while drilling and to lock the three parts together during final assembly in the tractor. 

The sleeve can be made as long as necessary if you want to extend the shaft to raise the wheel. There is no risk of damage to the wheel.

[can whlvr 994]

good idea,and you can get it off in future

[tunahead72 2,543]

That's just downright clever Ed, thanks!

 

You did mean a 3/4" i.d. sleeve, right?

[Ed Kennell 41,789]

  Guess that 7/4" ID X 1" OD would be tough to machine,