Changing to higher AMPS

[bitten 134]

Can I change the 3 amp charging system to a 10 or 15 amp. Cant even plow in the dark to long before I have to shut lights off to recharge battery.

This is on a K241s 85' 310-8

I have been looking for LED head lights and have only found one kind and at $115 each dont think that I will be useing them anytime real soon.

Thanks for any help

P.J.

[bitten 134]

I was thinking that maybe I could change the stator ring inside flywheel?

[JimD 3,347]

hi bitten, wish i had some answers for you. i can't understand why they would go to such a low amp system. i had an electrical contracting business, but never got too much into electronics. there are definately some electronics experts here, so hang in there. hope you get some answers, jim.

[Kelly 1,033]

I'm not sure of all the little things you need to do, but yes you should be able to change the stator, do a little wiring and add a volt reg. to match the stator, not even sure if your tractor has a reg. you would need to ask someone that knows more than me if the flywheel would need changed to match the stator, I don't think so but not sure, thats my imput right or wrong, I hope right, and sure I will be corrected if wrong :D

[mcwh1950 2]

the 85 310-8 should have a 5 amp charging system.

i would say to try another batter first if you batter is old or weak

[WheelHorse_of_course 99]

A few points fo ryou

1)You might look into a higher capacity battery - it wouldn't actually solve the problem but...

2) Is your battery getting fully recharged between these plowing systems. If you have enough capacity on the battery and keep it on a float charger when not in use, you may be able to further ameliorate the problem.

3) The LED idea is a good one. You need to look harder.

Here are a couple of leads I had been thinking about:

All Electronics has these multi-LED arrays.

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store...IP-24VDC/1.html

You could cut this to length. The resistors are set up for 24 volts. To change it to 12volt operation you would need to tack solder a resistor of the same value in parallel to each resistor (fairly easy) or replace each resistor with one of 1/2 the resistance (harder).

This chinese Ebay seller has some serious LEDs (10 watts):

http://cgi.ebay.com/High-Brightness-10W-45...4QQcmdZViewItem

You would need a ballast resistor of about 5-10 Ohms to run this on 12 volts

This would draw under 2 amps and possibly only one would be required.

I think this seller also offers them without the heat sink if you wanted to mount it to the headlight bucket.

If you try either of these please do lets us know how you do. I suspect it would be less work and more fun than trying to mod your engine.

In any case, best of luck!

:hide:

[bitten 134]

Thanks Guys.

The battery might not be the best that I can get and have thought about useing a Optima and a trickle in between use.

The Optima was more for the thoughts that I would not have to worry about battery acid eating on my tractor any more,but they are very pricey.

The LED headlights I was referring to earlyer are acutal industrial head light we run on some of the new forklifts at work and man are they bright. Makes the 4411 standerd headlight look very dim. I havent done an amp check on them but they have to be pulling less.

Might just have to change them out and tell manegement that they are to bright and giveing outher drivers a diffecult time

I have got some 1156 red LED that Im going to mount on the back that are very bright, will have to do some body mods but what the hay.

I would still like to bump up the charging system eather way I go.

P.J.

[ironcitymadman 0]

How bout running an alternator off a pulley? You can get a smaller AC delco one wire hookup for @ $40 from Napa. Plus a bracket and a belt. I mounted one of these on a 10hp Gravely that had a bad charging system. the replacement stator alone was over $250. (it was an oddball they only used for a few years). but to change stators also involved a new flywheel etc. Magnets are different. Only my 2 cents.

[dgjks6 8]

I think there is something wrong with your charging system. I have a 312-8 with a 5 year old 335cca battery and I leave my lights on all the time. They are bright and they go off and on with the tractor and I never have any starting issues.

Greg

[bitten 134]

I might just have to look further into the wireing. I thought I read somewhere that this tractor only had 3amps .

P.J.

[TT-(Moderator) 1,162]

P.J., you are correct. The K series engines in most of the earlier 300/400 models had a diode-controlled 3 amp unregulated charging circuit - which is similar to what some of the B&S engines use. 3 amps is what is needed to maintain battery voltage when the engine is running due to the ignition coil draw.

But...... The alternator on these engines is a dual-circuit design - meaning that they also have an A.C. lighting coil built in to the stator. The lights on these tractors should only function when the engine is running, and will be dimmer at idle than they are at WOT. If someone has hooked the lights up directly to a 12V battery power source, the 3 amp alternator can not keep up with the load. You will need to hook the lights back up to the lighting coil or the battery will eventually go dead no matter how big it is.

I have included the wiring schematic for a 1986 312/414, which has the same alternator. You need to pull power from the dark green wire coming from the stator. There should be around 16 to 18 V.A.C. between that wire and ground with the engine running at 3400 rpm.

If you chose to upgrade to a 15 amp alternator, you will need the stator and matching rectifier/regulator (R/R). I'm almost certain that the magnet count on the flywheel is the same.

The wiring is VERY simple - requiring only one change. Once you mount the R/R, hook the two stator leads up to the A.C. terminals. (hopefully there will be a plug on the stator wires.) You will need to hook the white wire from the "R" terminal of your ignition switch (the one running to your current stator charging coils) to the "B+" terminal on the R/R.

You can then pull power for the light switch from the "A" terminal on the ignition switch. (don't forget to install a 15 or 20 amp inline fuse between the light switch and the ignition switch!)

[TT-(Moderator) 1,162]

I have a 312-8 with a 5 year old 335cca battery and I leave my lights on all the time. They are bright and they go off and on with the tractor and I never have any starting issues.

Greg - your 312 has an M12 Magnum with magneto ignition and a 15 alternator with a R/R.

The headlights on that model are powered by 12VDC from the battery and will work as long as the key is in the run position - regardless if the engine is running or not.

[catman81056 3]

P.J., you are correct. The K series engines in most of the earlier 300/400 models had a diode-controlled 3 amp unregulated charging circuit - which is similar to what some of the B&S engines use. 3 amps is what is needed to maintain battery voltage when the engine is running due to the ignition coil draw.

But...... The alternator on these engines is a dual-circuit design - meaning that they also have an A.C. lighting coil built in to the stator. The lights on these tractors should only function when the engine is running, and will be dimmer at idle than they are at WOT. If someone has hooked the lights up directly to a 12V battery power source, the 3 amp alternator can not keep up with the load. You will need to hook the lights back up to the lighting coil or the battery will eventually go dead no matter how big it is.

I have included the wiring schematic for a 1986 312/414, which has the same alternator. You need to pull power from the dark green wire coming from the stator. There should be around 16 to 18 V.A.C. between that wire and ground with the engine running at 3400 rpm.

If you chose to upgrade to a 15 amp alternator, you will need the stator and matching rectifier/regulator (R/R). I'm almost certain that the magnet count on the flywheel is the same.

The wiring is VERY simple - requiring only one change. Once you mount the R/R, hook the two stator leads up to the A.C. terminals. (hopefully there will be a plug on the stator wires.) You will need to hook the white wire from the "R" terminal of your ignition switch (the one running to your current stator charging coils) to the "B+" terminal on the R/R.

You can then pull power for the light switch from the "A" terminal on the ignition switch. (don't forget to install a 15 or 20 amp inline fuse between the light switch and the ignition switch!)

Now thats what we've been missing

Sure glad to see you back TT. :D

[bowtieguy 334]

Hey Tim...for a minute I thought I had logged in on the wrong forum!!....sure is good to see some useful "tech stuff" that I can start saving again in my "Tech File".

Yea, I'll have one with ya, Tim :hide:

[bitten 134]

TT

What you said has gotten me to thinking that one of the wires comeing out of the engine is wire capped off.I will have to look at that tomarow. The wire diragra that you have is not set up like my tractor is. I dont have the test system or relays. I do believe that if I take that wire nut off and test it it would be for the lighting system. As the system in your diragram has a separet wire. It will only power the lights so if this is the case then I might not need to re amp the system.

Still some LED head lights will still look cool.

Thanks to everyone that as responded,

P.J.

[TT-(Moderator) 1,162]

I only posted that schematic because I already had it scanned. The wiring for the charging system and the lighting circuit is the same as your 310 though.

I have had both a 1985 312-8 and a 1986 312A with this style of alternator and never had a problem with dim lights or low battery voltage.