Cole J. 71 #76 Posted February 20, 2016 Thanks for the tip, and I have something I mind for the seat. No spoilers 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cole J. 71 #77 Posted February 21, 2016 Well I thought today would be a good day to work a little and desided to take off the back wheels and check for slop in the axial. I thought what the heck i will pull the hubs as well. The good thing is there is no slop. Any way to fix this or an i going to have to get a new one ... i would really like to not have to do that. Thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wheelin'theSky 57 #78 Posted February 24, 2016 Nice job. Love the pinstripes! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 26,573 #79 Posted February 24, 2016 I had to do some repairs to the axel on mine. Wasn't near that bad though. I removed the axles and machined a new slot 180 degrees from the old key way, then used a strait key instead of the half moon key. Made it nice and long so the new key would stretch past any damage in side the hub also. This made my hubs rock solid on the axle again. I realize not everyone has access to fancy equipment. If you don't, take your axles & hubs to a machine shop in your area. They should be help you out. If you do this make sure you leave enough solid shaft for the axle seal to ride on. The slot I cut in mine stops 3/16" before the seal. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cole J. 71 #80 Posted February 26, 2016 OK thanks that will help a lot Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cole J. 71 #81 Posted February 28, 2016 I found some old jeep break hubs in the scrap pile and thought wheel weights. They weigh about 15 lbs each not to sure if that's average weight or a little light i will have to look into it. Sorry don't have pics i don't want to run out of posting space for a couple of rusty break hubs. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 51,770 #82 Posted February 28, 2016 Check out this thread started by @ekennell. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cole J. 71 #83 Posted March 2, 2016 So back to the busted up axial I was look at the hub and in the key way where the key sit the key way opens wider than the rest of it. Is this supposed to do that? Because the other hub is not like that but it is a different type. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 35,838 #84 Posted March 2, 2016 (edited) The key slot should be a constant width. If it is wider in the key area, it is worn ...probably from the broken axle keyway allowing the key to move. You can have new keyways cut in the hub and axle at most machine shops. As stated above, I have successfully repaired the axle keyways by welding, but I would not attempt it on the cast iron hub. Edited March 2, 2016 by ekennell 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cole J. 71 #85 Posted March 2, 2016 OK it's weird I suppose it could just be the wearing over time but it looks as though it was meant to be there because it is perfectly straight. I suppose if it broke a while ago it would look like that from wear. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 26,573 #86 Posted March 2, 2016 Judging by the way your axle looks, I would search for a different hub or have a new keyway cut into your old hub. If you fix the axle and put a wore out hub on you will damage your axle again. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cole J. 71 #87 Posted March 2, 2016 Yeah I figured that, I will have to see what I can find. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cole J. 71 #88 Posted March 26, 2016 It been a long time since my last post but I haven't got anything done so I had no reason to post with state testing coming up ive presuered with "practice test" Anyway to day we ventured out to rural king and they had some cheap front tractor tires and i thought it would be cool to get so i was about to get them and my dad says " do you really need those " and i thought some more and said "no i guess not" So i didnt get new tires but i think i am going to use tire paint and see how that work im not sure what to expect. Any comments on what to use and if it works well will be appreciated I have this week off of school so I can get something done I hope, I need to find front bearings and I guess I'm getting forced into rattle can so we will see how that turns out with my not so expert painting skills have yet to get that axial done in going to probably drain the trans and clean it all out if it needs it I'm sure it dose then maybe get that axial fix this week ... maybe That's all for now, I know long post but figured I had some catching up to do 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
grine_22 145 #89 Posted March 26, 2016 I've read a lot of posts about miller tire paint, never used the stuff even though it's in my neck of the woods but its supposed to be really good. My dad lives in Texas where he runs a small engine/mower repair shop and he hears a lot about them, if you get a chance look up m.e. miller tire, wauseon Ohio. As for rattle cans on the paint, just take your time, light, light, light......ive found its the same way for painting as it was when I did drywall, if you take a light and shine it down the paint job at a close angle you can see a lot of the imperfections. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 26,573 #90 Posted March 26, 2016 (edited) I haven't tried the black tire paint my self. I usually scrub the tires real good with Super Clean then use Armor All on them. Granted the Armor All has to be reapplied as needed, but you don't risk having paint that might flake off your tires. Edited March 26, 2016 by achto Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 51,770 #91 Posted March 26, 2016 Check out post 184 of Hank's 854 thread, used tire paint and it came out nice. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Daddy Don 893 #92 Posted April 1, 2016 Welcome to the club. You will get hooked. I just finished my third one. It is a c125 1981. Just take your time and you will love the end when it is finished. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cole J. 71 #93 Posted April 1, 2016 Thanks for the welcome, nice job, I have all ways like the look of that tractor thanks for sharing some pics as well it keeps me motivated to keep on working at it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cole J. 71 #94 Posted April 19, 2016 I tried my hand at painting, I'm using regal red. I haven't painted for a while and it shows, the few parts I painted didn't turn out all to well. I'm going to try again and will update then. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 51,770 #95 Posted April 19, 2016 A couple of coats of sand-able primer and wet sanding with 400 W?D paper will help fill those pits and give a better finish. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cole J. 71 #96 Posted April 19, 2016 Could I get some cheap primer for the smaller parts, I have some for the larger parts. Would it still work like more expensive primer. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 51,770 #97 Posted April 20, 2016 Be sure it is sand-able, also it is best to stay with the same brand you will be using for top coat. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RedRanger 1,468 #98 Posted April 21, 2016 Primer is for adhesion, not filling rust pits. Those parts need more than primer if you want to smooth them out. Look into body fillers. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cole J. 71 #99 Posted June 1, 2016 Its been a long time since my last update finally now that schools over I've been crackin' down hard on it ... well until i ran out of paint. Im getting some more today and im hoping to get done painting in a week or two, i got to get a gun to shoot primer on the hood and fenders. Thats what i have done so far, i figured out that the first atempt at painting i was to far away from the part and it wasnt covering evenly. Thats all for now another update in a few weeks. Sorry of the bad spelling 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
