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GlenPettit

Snow Blade Repair (Wear Bar), how?

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GlenPettit

Help!  48" Blade is worn down into the bolt holes, all 5.  What is the best way to repair/correct this so I can still use a new wear bar (which I have), somehow it may be necessary to add material on the back for reinforcement.  Suggestions???  Have a total of 3 blades like this, in Michigan, we have to use our blades, a lot.  Appreciate photos or drawings, I have limited-basic welding skills, but can so small simple jobs (110v Mig).
IMG_0206_zpsi1bxbgxb.jpg
I'm sure there is not enough original plow-blade metal to support the new Wear Bar, need to add something on back or on front, more support bolts higher up ???   (added: 5:00pm)
PS: our white poodle is under the table 2' down, not in pain under the blade.
,


Glen
 

Edited by GlenPettit

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Terry M

I'm sure someone will tell you a better way to repair....but If it was me , I'd find a new piece of steel for the wear bar and maybe redrill some new holes. (??)  

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DougC

Mine wore down as well. Not as far as yours though.  I was able to flip mine over and bolt it back on cause I was to cheap to buy a new wear bar.
I agree with TerryM . Buy a new steel bar and drill new holes in blade.
Trips to the welding shop can get expensive! Oh by the way did I mention I was a cheap skate?   :lol:

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Ed Kennell

Can you drill new 7/16 holes directly above the existing square holes using the new wear bar as a template, 
I'm not sure if there is enough clearance with the reinforcement channel on the back side to clear the nut.
Depending on the thickness of your wear bar, you may have to open the holes to 1/2" or square out the corners with a file to clear the square on the carriage bolt head.

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oe espo

I repaired mine  I may have posted  I took a cutoff wheel an trimmed back to the channel brace on the back.  should warp less there  weld a new flat bar there and drill with template

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DennisThornton

Square drill bit and new holes!  Or a round drill bit and and file if that's all you got...B)

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slammer302

If you just want to take the easy route put a new wear bar on and use sum large washers on the back to pinch it to the blade I know this isn't the strongest fix but it does work don't ask how I know

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

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GlenPettit

Good points.  Because all the force would be on the bottom, pushing the bottom back and top forward, I was thinking I would need the bottom to be extra heavy-duty & reinforced, thus having a plate welded on down to where the original blade metal was.  There is enough room on the blade back to drill/square new holes higher up (I do have a new 48" drilled wear plate).

oe espo:  (your post reference) - - - That is exactly what I was hoping for, exactly how to fix it permanently.  Thank you,  Glen
 

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ACman

If all else fails there was a weld fab shop in Mason. My dad had his 1929 AC model U engine block drilled , pined and welded there. They can fix or repair anything made of metal .

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