Brian01 481 #51 Posted September 26, 2015 Double vision again? Ugh? 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brian01 481 #52 Posted September 26, 2015 Can't get enough....been cruisin' around the yard on it all mornin' lol 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brian01 481 #53 Posted September 26, 2015 Just been pondering....does anyone know exactly how long an RJ58 lify cable is, from crimped end to crimped end? Thinking of building me so I can use my rear hitch... And don't have $50 to spend on a new one right now. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 51,754 #54 Posted September 26, 2015 Steve, I hate to hijack Brian's post, but I would love to see some more pictures of that hybrid round hood with the extended frame and an eight speed trans-axle. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brian01 481 #55 Posted September 26, 2015 No worries 953 nut.I still have had no luck finding out length of RJ lift cable. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slammer302 2,154 #56 Posted September 27, 2015 I have one off a suburban should be the same length i can measure it in min Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brian01 481 #57 Posted September 27, 2015 Cool...wunna get rid of it? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brian01 481 #58 Posted September 29, 2015 Just thought I'd share this pic with my new throttle control on. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brian01 481 #59 Posted October 9, 2015 Well I know it's not really the proper place for this but...got the lift cwblefrom slammer n put it on, and this morning I built some weights for the front, painted them and got them on... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brian01 481 #60 Posted November 13, 2015 OK I know kinda old thread but I need a little advise...I made a brake rod out of a piece of all thread..it works fine but my pedal is way back. How can I make it be like straight up? Different spring? Longer brake rod? I know the suburban 400 is supposed to be like 20 7/8" long..the one I built is like 18 or so. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 10,293 #61 Posted November 13, 2015 (edited) The clutch arm looks to be pulled a bit farther than it should be. Mine doesn't go quite that far without a belt and the idler arm against the real belt guard bolt. Is the idler assembly all good? The spring won't change things. As far as the rod length, a longer one would compound the problem. The issue there is the clutch pedal. It's not right. Here's a picture of mine and the difference is obvious. Oh geez! I forgot we are dealing with an RJ/Suburban hybrid here. That clutch pedal is for the RJ setup. I'm thinking the easiest fix is to find a Suburban pedal or modify that one for the proper geometry. Edited November 13, 2015 by Racinbob Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brian01 481 #62 Posted November 13, 2015 Yes I weldeda tab at the bottom of pedal, as shown in your pic there, that's how I have it connected, so that shouldn't matter either Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 10,293 #63 Posted November 13, 2015 No, not at all as long as it works. It's just that you'll have a longer pedal throw to engage/disengage the clutch. You can see the angle in the vertical part of the pedal making the rod connection further forward. There lies the issue in the rod length. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brian01 481 #64 Posted November 13, 2015 So I need a longer brake rod? Correct? I think I tried that though, and the pedl broke all the way over before clutch would enguge Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 10,293 #65 Posted November 13, 2015 (edited) No, not with that pedal. A longer one will only make the pedal fall further back and cause the problem you mentioned. A shorter one will bring it forward some. But, a shorter one will also mean the pedal will have to be pushed further forward to disengage. You could make another one and use a threaded trunnion so it will be adjustable. You could weld a longer tab on the bottom making the rod connection farther away from the pivot point effectively making the pedal throw shorter. Basically, the geometry is wrong with the hybrid setup but it can be overcome. Edited November 13, 2015 by Racinbob 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brian01 481 #66 Posted November 13, 2015 OK I fixed it, somewhat. Moved the rod up one hole on the brake arm. And put the spring in the first hole, where the rod "was"... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 10,293 #67 Posted November 13, 2015 Interesting. Those extra holes are aftermarket. But if it works there's no harm done. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brian01 481 #68 Posted November 13, 2015 (edited) Yeah it has kinda "soft " brakes that way, but may be able to adjust it out.But does work....looks a llittle better too!I actually need a brake rod, instead of all thread, because it "gives" whenever you hit the brake. Edited November 13, 2015 by Brian01 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slammer302 2,154 #69 Posted November 13, 2015 You need lift trunnion that ur piece of all thread can screw through and it will let adjust were the pedal is and how far it can travel Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 10,293 #70 Posted November 14, 2015 The 60 tractors had a fixed length rod. The 61's had a threaded trunnion. Since, as manufactured at the time, only one hole to choose from the adjustable only changed the pedal position. The travel was determined on the back end. Belt stretch and brake adjustment. There's not much forgiveness in these oldies. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brian01 481 #71 Posted November 14, 2015 Yeah, itd be nice if there was a "stop" on the brake pedal, so it cant spin all the way around..I Painted the engine Pulley this morning, gave it a little something ...lol Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brian01 481 #72 Posted November 17, 2015 (edited) Hey, was thinking of trying to find a different spring for the brakes, as you can see in the pics, the one I'm using is really to big around....looks hiddious. Can someone tell me what the correct length spring I need?Also would like some opinions....I was thinking about removing the engine and painting the block and all? Or should I just leave it be?I need to get the ol k90 done and put it on there. Is what I need to do. Edited November 17, 2015 by Brian01 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites