k-90 x4

[jsp_333 222]

WHX5
The moment you posted option A or B I knew I was doomed.
So last night at 10:00 I go out to the garage to get a beer and sit on the rj,  I'm thinkin "I gotta try this."
Sure enough current(?) generated by K-90 that won't fire is noticeably weaker from K-90 that will.
Looks like I'm buying a flywheel puller next week.
As always thanks for the help.

John
 

[WHX?? 46,814]

 good man jsp....pic is worth 100000 words...supporter is the way to go

[WHX?? 46,814]

Fly wheel might come off without a puller but I don't recommend it....thread the nut on flush and hold up on the flywheel ...gently tap on the nut and most times they will come off...best to have a puller tho...specially if yer hooked and more than not yer gonna need it again...Northern tool has a nice set for under $80

Edited September 25, 2015 by WHX5

[jsp_333 222]

Hey WHX5
That was solid looking around and finding Northern Tool for me.  THANKS!
I bought a puller last week but not nearly big enough.  4"  tri-jaw I believe.
Do I need 6 or 8 inch to get the flywheel off.
I'm assuming utube for videos - never attempted this before 
Away for the weekend - will get that supporter status worked out and get tools and pics next week

Cheers,     John

[WHX?? 46,814]

You  a good man John 

[WHX?? 46,814]

This is the set I have, not real hi test but good enought for hobbyist use.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_13315_13315

[jsp_333 222]

Thanks for the link at least now I know I'm buying the right tool.
Having pictures makes it so much easier. 
Couldn't find self-deprecating emoji so you'll have to appreciate the humour as written
 

[jsp_333 222]

Bought a couple of tri jaw flywheel pullers today.
There is no way they are going to fit behind the flywheel.
I've already tried.  And it's not recommended for that type of flywheel.
Watched a few utube videos and that whole pry bar sledge hammer thing seems like its for the more experienced
There are no self taping screw holes on the flywheel for the other kind of gear puller.
So how exactly am I supposed to get the thing off.

I'll upload photos of the 4 engines tomorrow evening now that I've got my status worked out. Thanks karl.

[slammer302 2,154]

I heat up the flywheel and then thread the nut on the crank shaft a little and then give it a wack with a brass hammer the fly wheel usually pops off

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

[Howie 882]

I have couple of flywheel removers that are a 1" hex about 1 3/4 long threaded inside, screw on crank to about 1/8" from
Flywheel hit with hammer. I think they were sold by Tecumseh but I use them for whatever engine they will fit. Sometimes
A pth bar behind flywheel for some pressure.
DDavid

[jsp_333 222]

Ok Photos at last

[jsp_333 222]

So engine two is working.
Engine 1 is the focus of this exercise.
Currently has week spark hence all the talk of flywheel pullers.
Think I'm going to go with the air tool method as it appears to be the most forgiving
ie. no whackin' flywheel with a hammer.
All suggestions are appreciated.

I'll try it tonight - maybe even record video of the process

[oliver2-44 8,862]

Instead of a "Jaw" type puller I use the "bolt type puller. I have the one from Harbor Freight, it works for most jobs and you cant beat the price $ http://www.harborfreight.com/bolt-type-wheel-puller-set-69889.html
Over time I've replaced the bolt that came with it with grade 8 bolts.  You flywheel should have 3 or (probable 4) empty threaded holes inside of the fin area. Install the puller on the flywheel, tighten up the center puller bolt against the drive end of the drive shaft (loosen nut first) to put tension on the flywheel. Then give the end of the center bolt a good hit with a hammer. If it doesn't come off tighten genter puller bolt some more (ie more tension) and hit it again.

The bolt puller puts the "pull" close to the center of the flywheel while a "jaw" type puller puts the pull on the outer diameter and can have a higher risk of breaking a flywheel,

PS I might be interested in some engine parts once you get yours restored!

Edited September 29, 2015 by oliver2-44

[slammer302 2,154]

I believe the k90s didn't have the holes for a bolt puller i believe you are supposed to use a knock off tool like Howie is talking about 

[jsp_333 222]

That's correct no pre-drilled holes.  There dosen't appear to be anyway to grip the flywheel
Anything special about that knock-off tool. 
I know I've got something similar.
1/2 inch hex (not 1inch) threaded on inside kicking around my photo studio
I'll drop by Home Depot tonight and have a look to see if they have the inch hex

[WHX?? 46,814]

Nice red in your handle John....let's let them pics fly now!!!!

I noticed you have the "shower head" muffler on one of them....save it if you can I hear those are like gold!

[AMC RULES 36,945]

You're not referring to the muffler on that green engine? 
Pictured below is a "shower head" muffler. 

 

[jsp_333 222]

Got the flywheel off tonight.
Air tool technique worked well for me.
So photos of the engine that came with the tractor.
This engine has weak spark.
Will probably just replace everything.
Can I just swap stuff out from the engine in my next post which is known to have good spark

So pics of engine with good spark
And just to put everyone's mind to rest both green engines came off a bolens walk behind

[AMC RULES 36,945]

Yep, swap your parts...
to make a runner.  

[WHX?? 46,814]

Red motor Craig, 2nd pic down, heard those  are rarer then hens teeth....

Clean the fly wheels up good and make sure there are no particals sticking to the magnets. The one looks like the magnets may have been rubbing on something. I don't know if there is a way to check or adjust the air gap (the distance between the magnets and the coil) on these motors but check the manual. Also check the magnets to be sure the screws holding them on  are tight or loctited. Many a good coil have been taken out by loose magnets. Not a bad idea to use some blue loctite on the screws holding the coil down either. Check electrical connections to be clean & tight. Use star washers where needed.

[WHX?? 46,814]

Heres the manual for k91 http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/file/4104-engine-kohler-k-series-sm-tp-2379pdf/ couldn't find a manual for the 90 but should be real similar to a 91. Maybe some other guys have it?

[jsp_333 222]

Thanks, got it last week and printed all 137 pages.

Any idea why the first engine pictured has a condenser (?) and the second one doesn't

[WHX?? 46,814]

I would guess the condeser is this, just mounted differently unless it is in by the points, I think some of them are there too.

[jsp_333 222]

Ya most of the ones I've seen are by the points but boy that looks like a funny place to put a condenser.
I also wouldn't think the magnet is deep enough but you never know.
I'll try and get into it tonight but time will be tight.
Probably just clean and then switch the flywheels and see it I get a better spark.
I'm thinking pulling everything off of one and switching it to the other is going to take some time and light

[jsp_333 222]

WHX5 was right - pulled it apart last night off sure enough that's where the condenser was -  see red arrow in photo above.

Today's question;  Is the spark plug wire just supposed to pop out of the coil?  Pulled two apart last night.
Can't see any way to attach it other than just jamming it back in the hole on the coil. 
There appears to be a spikey thingy at the bottom of the hole but can't see how that would work given the vibrations of a running engine?

Thanks to all