Acrylic Urethane Paint

[Butch 194]

Anyone use it? Durability? Cure time? Cost?

Thinking of going this direction now.

Thanks

[Brian1045 28]

Butch, here is some specs on the paint. Give it a whirl. I'm curious to know how it goes.

http://www.tcpglobal.com/restorationshop/d...echsheet_au.pdf

[Butch 194]

Brian I've been in contact with them. A gallon kit is around $90 for

the paint, hardener and reducer. They have about 10 standard red colors.

When I picked a non-standard red, which was a 1958 International

Harvester red, the price shot up to $200 for the paint alone. They did

say the Acrylic Urethane is much more durable than the Urethane Enamels

and it cures fast. So I don't know what I'm gonna do at this point. I'm

not gonna spend $300 plus on paint and primer. For $80 I can buy an

Acrylic Urethane gallon kit which is Candy Apple red. I just may go with

any red but that means I must strip the parts I already painted and redo

them. Now my wife is worried that I may do too good of a job that I won't

wanna use the tractor for the purpose I bought it for!! I have done that

once before!

[Brian1045 28]

I posted this in another post, but I used a touch up gun at 35 p.s.i. my second go around on the frame, hood,etc.

It wasted alot less paint than my quart siphen gun did. I'd say if you mix 2:1 ratio a half gallon would do you... especially if you use a touch up gun.

http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/13110.html

The guns at menards for $25 are just as good as above.

Best $30 I ever Spent. :banana:

[Butch 194]

Brian we don't have Menards in Jersey. I had never heard of Menards until my wife asked if Paul Menard was his own sponsor in NASCAR!! I was looking at a

trim gun on Ebay and Harbor Freight. You had posted pics of your paint job when

you did it outside. Then you used a regular gun. Does that mean you repainted it?

What kind of paint did you use? How long did it take to cure? That's my problem

now is that the paints take to long to dry.

[Brian1045 28]

Yes I painted outside. You'll have the added things like knats, dust. etc. I got pretty lucky and buffed out what I did pick up.

I went with base coat / clear coat. I like it but I don't.

The base is very easy and very forgiving. It will be dry enough to clear over in less than 30 mins. It dries easier and faster than most primers do.

Over spray while clearing is the worst. So Make sure when you clear what you want all at once and are totally done after your second coat. Touch up can't be done with clear. It's clear the whole part and be done or add another coat until satisfied.

The colors I used are:

Nason brand Fleet line red (Fire Triuck Red) $50 a Qt.

And the White is Nason brand 1995 GM White. It's a little "too" white but it looks really good anyhow. $30 a Qt.

Paint is mixed 2:1 paint/reducer (activator not needed)

Clear is mixed 4:1 clear coat/activator (activator is a must for clear coat)(Reducer not needed)

If you decide to go base/clear, do not handle clear coated parts for 24hrs. after spraying. After that it is good to go.

I used a 2 stage sand/fill primer. $60. gal. plus $13 for activator.

All in all a $300 would most likely get the job done, but it will be close, give or take $50.

Wait a week before buffing with compound, then buff with glaze then wax of your choice.

I'm happy with my results but the paint looks better than factory. So it's not totally authentic. There is the chance later on that the clear could start to flake or crack, But this is not going to be a "work" Wheel horse. It will be pampered.

My next one will be for work and play. :banana:

[Butch 194]

I just want something now that is gonna dry faster than the spray cans. But

yet I don't wanna spend a fortune. I guess with a gallon of paint I should have

enough left to paint my black Craftsman trailer red!! It's been neglected and sitting

in the woods for 5 years. But I gotta decide what I'm gonna do. Right now I'm

just spinning my wheels.

Butch

[linen beige 15]

When I picked a non-standard red, which was a 1958 International

Harvester red, the price shot up to $200 for the paint alone.

Check with one of your local paint supply jobbers, or a good body shop. Either one should be able to match the color you've already sprayed just by using a spectrometer. A spectrometer "reads" the color sample and provides a matching mixing code that can be used to get a color match out of any type paint.

And I'd stick with a name brand paint such as Dupont or PPG.

I have used just about every brand of spray paint out there through the years and never have run into one that didn't dry pretty quickly unless it was sprayed on WAY too heavily. Light successive coats are the key. Most rattle can painted parts can be reassembled in a matter of hours if the paint was layed down right.

[Brian1045 28]

I'd go ahead and sand/wire wheel and prime what you can. Wet sand it and then set those parts aside until you decide.

You can let those parts sit a long time while you decide on a color or type, then use a virgin wax cutting solvent to wipe everything down, (I love that stuff) then tack rag the cosmetic parts right before you spray.

:D

[Butch 194]

Jim the rattle can paints dried in a few hours where you could pick them up

but the paint is still real soft. And it's been 3 weeks for some of the parts.

I'm afraid if I try assembling the tractor I'm gonna peel or scratch a lot of

the paint off. Not all the parts go on easy. It was tricky getting some of

them off and they rubbed against each other in the process. I don't know

how long it takes for the Valspar Resto paint with hardner takes. But right

now the soft paint is slowing me down. I'm ready to paint the frame and

other parts. So that's what I mean by I'm just spinning my wheels. Not sure

what to do at this point. I emailed the Techs at Valspar to get an answer on

how long it takes the spray cans to cure but haven't heard back from them.

Do these paint suppliers charge you to color match them? That's why I was

surprised the one online price went from about $60 a gallon for the standard

or stock colors to a color I picked from a 1958 International truck. I assumed

it was still gonna be the same Acrylic Urethane paint. I figured they would take

the base and add the coloring to it.

Thanks for the info.

Butch

[Butch 194]

I'd go ahead and sand/wire wheel and prime what you can. Wet sand it and then set those parts aside until you decide.

You can let those parts sit a long time while you decide on a color or type, then use a virgin wax cutting solvent to wipe everything down, (I love that stuff) then tack rag the cosmetic parts right before you spray.

Brian I may end up doing that but this job is starting to become a headache.

I needed the tractor in the fall which didn't happen so now I need it for spring.

But I have some house work that needs to be done and now the tractor has

fouled up my schedule. Nothing new there!! But the winter is when I do my

home remodeling work. With 7 days off a week I don't know how I ever

did it with 2 days off! :hide:

[linen beige 15]

I see what you mean now about the paint still being "soft". You'll be lucky to get more than a generic answer from Valspar, due to there being so many variables involved.

As for wheteher the jobbers charge for color matching I can only offer this. When the spectrometers first began to show up the few shops that had them began to get a lot of requests for matching colors. This started to be a hasle so they charged a fee for their time. Now that nearly every shop has one they may still charge a slight fee if all you want them to do is give you a mixing code, but they don't add any fee to the cost of the paint if you buy it from them.

Most of the larger manufacturers such as Dupont and PPG also sell full lines of impliment paints and colors for all sorts of machinery. They probably already have a code for the old IH red that most everybody uses when restoring a Wheel Horse. Here is a link to an older PPG code for Wheel Horse red.

http://www.worldpath.net/~thompson/misc/PP...or%20Colors.htm

It is just a tad lighter/brighter than IH red. Whether that code is still good at a PPG place I don't now.

Not all pigments cost the same, and some colors require the use of several different pigments, so custom colors are usually higher than the batch mixed shades. And reds usually are higher end colors.

[Butch 194]

It looks like the hardners for the Acrylic Urethanes require a breathing

apparatus because of the chemicals in it. I read on another site where

someone said he tried it and was sick for days with lung problems. He

said there wasn't anything doctors could do or any medication for it. It

looks like I could be going back to the Valspar Restoration series of

paint. I didn't think this was gonna get so involved.

[HorseFixer 2,013]

I posted this in another post, but I used a touch up gun at 35 p.s.i. my second go around on the frame, hood,etc.

It wasted alot less paint than my quart siphen gun did. I'd say if you mix 2:1 ratio a half gallon would do you... especially if you use a touch up gun.

http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/13110.html

The guns at menards for $25 are just as good as above.

Best $30 I ever Spent. :banana:

Brian do you use this gun and have good luck? :hide:

[Brian1045 28]

Yes thats the gun I moreless painted the entire tractor with. Only mine had a cheaper style plastic canister.

I did shoot some primer through it and it did fine. But I was told that the needle isn't designed for primer, it could wear it out quickly.

Heck if it screws up or wears out I'm only out $30. I may go buy a couple more just to have around. :hide:

[linen beige 15]

It looks like the hardners for the Acrylic Urethanes require a breathing

apparatus because of the chemicals in it. I read on another site where

someone said he tried it and was sick for days with lung problems. He

said there wasn't anything doctors could do or any medication for it. It

looks like I could be going back to the Valspar Restoration series of

paint. I didn't think this was gonna get so involved.

The Valspar hardener requires a supply of fresh air too. ALL hardeners do, or at least, all I've ever heard of.

Another post points out the difference between the high quality guns and the cheap copies. The parts aren't made from the same hardness or finished metals and the abrasive action of the solids in the paint will erode the internal parts of the cheap ones much more quickly. If you only plan to use it for a few hours over your lifetime they work OK, but if you plan to really work them the cheap guns just don't hold up.

[Butch 194]

I'm going with this.

http://www.kirkerautomotive.com/images/PDF/ULTRAGLO.pdf

I've read where people are very happy with the paint. The price is

fairly cheap but it comes in 3/4 gallon cans. I'll probably use

their primer and may even clear coat it. If I buy the complete kit

it comes with the clear. I'm gonna use one of their reds, just not

sure which one. Their activators do contain Isocyanates so caution

must be used.

[linen beige 15]

That's some interesting paint there. I've never heard of them. I am a little curious about the 2 hour pot life. Seems pretty short and may make it hard to get everything sprayed and the gun cleaned in time. I would use a little reducer with it also. Once you start spraying you'll probably feel better working with thinner material. It levels out a bit better. You may want to buy some cheap enamel at the home center and play with your spray equipment a little on some scrap before you start mixing up the good stuff.

[Butch 194]

I've got a craftsman trailer I will probably practice on. I'm only painting the

tractor frame at first to see how it comes out. The hood and fenders will be

the last thing I do. I've searched the web about the paint and people like it.

$48 for 3/4 gallon and $20 for the activator.

http://www.smartshoppersinc.com/Automotive...veFinishes.html

[joebob 45]

Butch the best secret to watch how your paint is laying down on your parts, if you have your head to the side of the paint gun and are watch the flow of the paint as it hits the part ,it helps you understand what is going on and how to control it , if you are going to fast or slow ect. the paint will tell you right away (wet/dry) but of course you will get hit with more overspray but ofter a couple times you will not have it do that again, also the size of the tip on the gun makes a differance ,the bigger the number the more it throws paint, I just use a detail gun, it takes me longer but finish is the same, you also should use a mask always when you spray anything even rattle cans, you can buy the paper mask to use if they have a n95 number(I think) rating that means there ok for fumes they just dont last as long.

[HorseFixer 2,013]

Yes thats the gun I moreless painted the entire tractor with. Only mine had a cheaper style plastic canister.

I did shoot some primer through it and it did fine. But I was told that the needle isn't designed for primer, it could wear it out quickly.

Heck if it screws up or wears out I'm only out $30. I may go buy a couple more just to have around.

Thanks Ill hafta give one a try! :hide:

[Michael Bullington 5]

thats a good point about the mask...I cant tell you how many times with the rattle can ive sprayed without a mask...I really didnt think much about it until I read this post :imstupid:

Going to get mask before painting again for sure..Ive been painting in the garage lately and the fumes are even worse! :hide: