1986 310-8 Kohler K series/Relay Issue

[boovuc 1,090]

Guys,

I had my 50 dollar 310-8 running last fall just to try the engine and transmission. I am just now getting it ready to  mow with.
Threw a battery in it and charged all the way. I noticed that when I hooked the battery up to the tractor, the tractor with the ignition switch OFF made a click sound. 

I tried it several times but as soon as it had the battery hooked up, the relay, (side mounted on the PTO side between the tower and motor), would energize. And it got warm. Not hot.
When I turn the ignition switch to run, the voltage gauge comes up to 12.5 VDC. When I move the switch to start, the voltage gauge cuts to zero and I have nothing.
Without me tearing into this much, has anyone seen this? I don't think the relay is stuck since it clicks with 12 volts applied. Remove the fuse or battery and it clicks out. It just does it when there should not be anything going to it.
I have the seat safety switch bypassed. Please point me in a "check this first" direction and I'll go from there and I do have a multimeter.

Thanks in Advance!

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,393]

Sounds like this is the place to start.

Garry

[boovuc 1,090]

Roger the switch. Of course this is the only switch that I don't have a spare laying around! Only Magnum powered switches and I do believe they are different.
I'll check it after work! Thanks!

[rmaynard 16,217]

That's a pretty common switch. I know that my local TSC usually has them in stock for under $15.00.

[buckrancher 2,694]

check your oil level  I think this machine has the oil  switch in the motor base that is the only thing that will make your relay click the relay is normally closed for starting the oil level switch is normally open if the oil switch closes and allows 12 volt to go thru it
 to the single connector on the relay it will open the points inside the relay that's the clicking sound you hear try unplugging the single connector on the relay and see if she starts

Brian

[boovuc 1,090]

Brian nailed this one! The switch is bad. I have plenty of oil in it but that switch is open in the oil sump. Disconnected the single terminal and it fired.
Please see my next post. :< (  (Not charging).

Well, I guess you get what you paid for and 50 bucks wasn't bad for this!

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,393]

You likely have something else wrong also. The low oil relay should not be powered with the key turned to OFF. It is powered by the S terminal of the ignition switch in the start position only.

Garry

Edited July 29, 2015 by gwest_ca

[boovuc 1,090]

That may be part of my not charging issue also.
Thanks!

[boovuc 1,090]

Thank you, Garry,

I'll take the measurements tonight. I hope it's just the diode. With this tractor sitting outside for all those years by the PO, I would hate to see how much effort it would take to get that flywheel off! 

[boovuc 1,090]

I have a little break at work and I wanted to post this before I see a bird fly by and forget everything I was thinking about. Bird! Bird! There's a bird!

Anyway.......I checked the stater on the tractor with the connector disconnected from the wire harness and through the wire prior to the diode. I get a fluctuating reading of 37 to 24 ohms. (Range is correct. 25 to 37 Ohms).
I am thinking and correct me if I'm wrong but it should be under 1 ohm. Right?
The diode is not shorted as I can pass voltage one way and not the other using the diode check on my Craftsman VOM.

Again, I have lights from the lights circuit on the stater. I checked the ignition switch and it is letter coded as the diagram above. The A and S terminals have continuity per the trouble shooting chart in the run and start positions of each.

Stater bad? It's looking like it!