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diamondred

8 speed drive belt squeal

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diamondred

It's  a new belt made by Bando, while at mowing speed and going from reverse, or just stopping, and going to second gear the belt will make a squawk and and take off. Most of the time with a wheelie. I can not achieve a smooth transition from stop to go without jerking the tractor. I'm beginning to wonder if it may be the brand of belt. 

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stevasaurus

It very well could be the brand of belt.  The correct belt from your TORO dealer is designed to not fall into the grooves in the pulley so much and is cloth covered, which will let the belt slide a little instead of grabbing right away.  One other thing it could be is dirty or sticky pulley grooves...use some steel wool to clean and then wipe them with mineral spirits.  I would also suspect  a weak spring on the clutch pedal.  Sometimes, you just have to throttle down a little so you do not get thrown from the horse.  :)

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squonk

I agree with the dirty sticky pulley part. My 12 8 spd did that with a WH belt, a Napa green belt and a TSC kevlar belt. I finally discovered that the trans drive pulley was worn unevenly. Replaced the pulley  and all is well. I have the same issues with motor sheaves at work. Over time the surfaces will wear almost like a car rotor. Then a belt no matter the brand, material, or tension you set it at will squawk or slip. You would be surprised how much a metal pulley gets worn out by a rubber belt. I take care of over 300 belt drive pieces of equipment at work. you'd be amazed at some of the pulleys I've run across.Some are so worn, they have a knife edge on them!  What would be more amazing is management buying me a laser belt alignment tool! :roll:

Edited by squonk
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diamondred

Thanks you guys .... this gives me an idea of what to look more closely at. Just to let you guys in on it, What I did was I converted a 518H to an 8 spd. A 5073 build by MB, and a donor SK486 for the clutch and brake linkages.   I left the drive pulley on the engine (knowing it is 5 1/4" instead of 4") and got a 86" belt to accommodate this change. I knew it was gonna run a bit faster, but now is too fast. I have to mow in 1st gear....lol. I now have a 4" pulley to put on the engine and a new 83" belt from TSC. Would be nice to have a gauge for the pulleys.... Thanks.

Ya know, come to think of it, I would never replace a chain without replacing the sprockets. Maybe I should look for new sheaves before I burn up another belt...

 

Edited by diamondred
To answer my own question.
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diamondred

Just an update, Didn't buy new pulleys. Just cleaned the other ones up with some fine sandpaper. Put the 4" pulley on the engine like what is suppose to be there. Bought a blue 83" V-belt from TSC and it works perfect! :greetings-clappingyellow:  Nice smooth transition from stop to go, and only does wheelies when I say so

20150715_125953.jpg

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stevasaurus

Cool, people do not realize that this is the one place where you want a belt to slip...it is your clutch.  Like most people, I found out the hard way.  One of the first things I did was to put belt grip on the belt...we will not go any farther then that.  :)  Mineral spirits and sand paper or steel wool is the only way to go.

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diamondred

If I had to bet on it though, I think it was the brand of belt that was causing my original problem. It seemed to get gummy shortly after it was running for a bit. (Rear cylinder blows heat right on it) I'm thinking some belts are made to "slip" and some are made to grip. Being a little off subject, but I've tried several different belts on my vehicle to stop the squeal and squeak, Bando will be the only one that I'll buy for that situation.

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