rexman72 210 #1 Posted June 21, 2015 I am trying to trouble shoot the D200 on why its not turning over.The seat switch isn't hooked up to start.I have 12.15 volts at the battey to start.I tested the ignition switch and that is working.When I put my lead on the neg terminal of the battey and put the other lead on the small wire of the solenoid I get no voltage.Ay ideas on where to go next? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 18,566 #2 Posted June 21, 2015 Check your PTO safety switch. If teh PTO lever on mine is even slightly moved she won't crank Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,393 #3 Posted June 21, 2015 (edited) There is a wiring diagram in this manualhttp://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/file/3351-tractor-1975-d-series-auto-om-wiringpdf/The diagram identifies the pto switch as Safety SW (Clutch)1/2 controls the starter and the other 1/2 controls the ignitionGarry Edited June 21, 2015 by gwest_ca Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rexman72 210 #4 Posted June 21, 2015 checked the pto switch and found 4 terminals on it.Does anyone know the part number for that base?Also I was looking for a fuse and put the part number in and didn't come up with a round fuse that should go there. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 18,566 #5 Posted June 21, 2015 The PTO switch can only control the starter. If it controlled the ignition the tractor would die every time you engaged the PTO. My d200 only has 2 terminals on the PTO switch Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rexman72 210 #6 Posted June 22, 2015 not sure why my pto switch is different then yours Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,393 #7 Posted June 22, 2015 (edited) Here is a parts list for the 1975 models. Perhaps 1975 was the first year to incorporate the ignition into the same switch. With the pto ON the pto switch added the seat switch which powers the ignition. With the pto OFF the pto switch powers the ignition.http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/file/2046-tractor-1975-d-series-auto-iplpdf/There is also a neutral safety switch that must be closed in the transmission neutral position for the starter to work.Don't know what part you are calling the base.Found where the 101639 fuse is listed as SAE 20 but likely should be SFE-20 amp fuse for the lighting circuit.Garry Edited June 22, 2015 by gwest_ca Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rexman72 210 #8 Posted June 22, 2015 this is on the pto and it has 5 wires going into it and it attaches to the pto base with terminals on the top post with the pic Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,393 #9 Posted June 22, 2015 (edited) Should be 4 black wires for the ignition. Your first photo shows a loose black wire - did it come loose from the connector?The starter circuit is the 2 red wires. With the pto OFF you should have power in both red wires with the key turned to START. That sends power to the neutral transmission switch. If the neutral switch is good it should close in the neutral position and send power to the starter solenoid.Garry Edited June 22, 2015 by gwest_ca Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,393 #10 Posted June 22, 2015 The transmission neutral switch in 1975 is part number 101845 and has 2 terminals.The 1974 parts list does not show a pto switch but does list 2 of part number 101845 safety switches. One must be the transmission neutral switch and the other for the pto switch.Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rexman72 210 #11 Posted June 22, 2015 ok I just double checked and there are 4 black wires and two reds wires going into the pto switch.I connected my two leads to the red wires with the key on and I am getting voltage of .15 of voltage.Is that what I should be getting? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,393 #12 Posted June 22, 2015 (edited) No. Ground one tester lead and then probe one red wire at a time. One should be getting battery power (12 volts) from the ignition switch in the start position. Then with the pto OFF the switch should close and put power to the other red terminal so probe it second with the key in the START position. If you have 12 volt on both that switch is OK. Power is being sent to the two-wire transmission neutral switch. Test it next.The .15 volts you are getting across the terminals is the voltage drop across the switch. Theoretically it should be 0 volts for a switch in excellent condition. The .15 is not enough to cause your problem.If you had 12 volts going into the switch with a voltage drop due to dirty contacts inside or outside the switch of .15 volts mathematically the other terminal would have 11.85 volts. That likely explains voltage drop better and if it occurred enough times in a circuit it can be a problem. You don't end up getting enough power to where you need it.Garry Edited June 22, 2015 by gwest_ca Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rexman72 210 #13 Posted June 23, 2015 (edited) UpdateI went through the tractor tonight and cleaned all terminals.I have no voltage going from the negative side of the battery to the orange wire that goes on the solenoid.Then I tried to jump the two terminals on the solenoid to get the tractor going and that didn't work.Then I jumped the starter and the tractor turned over.I am thinking a new solenoid maybe?Also the sea switch isn't connected to anything.Anyone with thoughts on what to do next?I also tested the pto switch by grounding one lead and then testing each of the to red wires individual and theres no voltage one the two red wires.any thoughts? Edited June 24, 2015 by rexman72 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,393 #14 Posted June 24, 2015 (edited) UpdateI also tested the pto switch by grounding one lead and then testing each of the to red wires individual and theres no voltage one the two red wires.any thoughts? Let's get the starter working first and the rest may fall into place.When you checked for power on the red wires at the pto switch did you have the key turned to the START position? That should send power to one of the red wires only. Apply the pto. Test both red wires to see which one has power with the key in the START position.Now turn the pto OFF. The other red wire should now have power also with the key in the START position.Garry Edited June 24, 2015 by gwest_ca Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rexman72 210 #15 Posted June 24, 2015 Yes I am going to napa and see if they have a solenoid and put that in.With the key off and one lead on ground and one lead on the red I was getting .050 volts.Just as soon as I turned the key on it went to 0 volts and then turned the pto on and there was o volts. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,393 #16 Posted June 24, 2015 You have a problem before the solenoid so I wouldn't do that yet.If you can see the back of the ammeter it will have 2 terminals. See if you get battery voltage at both of those terminals. They both should have about 12 volts. One tester lead to ground and probe the two ammeter terminals one at a time. I'll wait.Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,393 #17 Posted June 24, 2015 Yes I am going to napa and see if they have a solenoid and put that in.With the key off and one lead on ground and one lead on the red I was getting .050 volts.Just as soon as I turned the key on it went to 0 volts and then turned the pto on and there was o volts. This sounds correct because with the key OFF the ignition switch is not sending power anywhere.Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rexman72 210 #18 Posted June 24, 2015 ok good then all roads lead to the solenoid.Will a universal one at napa work? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,393 #19 Posted June 24, 2015 You have a problem before the solenoid so I wouldn't do that yet.If you can see the back of the ammeter it will have 2 terminals. See if you get battery voltage at both of those terminals. They both should have about 12 volts. One tester lead to ground and probe the two ammeter terminals one at a time. I'll wait.Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rexman72 210 #20 Posted June 24, 2015 I do have 12 volts at both terminals Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,393 #21 Posted June 24, 2015 (edited) Good. That means you should have power going to the B terminal on the ignition switch. Can you test for 12 volts at that B terminal on the switch? Ground one tester lead and probe them all. Only the B terminal should have 12 volts. This test is done with the key OFF.The diagram shows the B wire as light green.I'll wait. Garry Edited June 24, 2015 by gwest_ca Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rexman72 210 #22 Posted June 24, 2015 12 volts going to b terminal Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,393 #23 Posted June 24, 2015 Great.Now probe the red wire which goes to the S terminal on the ignition switch. It should have 12 volts when you turn the key to the START position. This is the same red wire that is at the pto switch.I'll waitGarry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rexman72 210 #24 Posted June 24, 2015 no voltage with keyon s terminal with the red wire Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,393 #25 Posted June 24, 2015 Sounds like the ignition switch has failed.When you take it out check the wire terminals for corrosion because that is all it takes. If they look OK get a new switch.Original Wheel Horse part number is 103990. A Napa replacement is 7-01892.Want me to wait? Just kidding.Let us know what happens with the new switch.Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
