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kudzu3

10 HP Tecumseh carb problems

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kudzu3

1970 raider 10, only had it for a couple of weeks, ran when I got it but not well. started running real bad, when it would run at all. Took fuel tank off, cleaned it out real good, put on new fuel line and filter, Removed jets, cleaned and sprayed with carb cleaner inside and out, cleaned orifices with small drill bit, more carb cleaner spray and blew a little air through the orifices. After all that, it still ran real bad, surging and for a while wouldn't run unless the choke was closed, even after warm up, but after a whole lot of messing with it, I got it to run with the choke open but when I give it throttle, even a small amount, it dies. It finally died and wouldn't crank again, battery was getting weak, so I put it up. It will crank with a shot of starter fluid but dies pretty quick. Would a carb kit be worth trying, do I need a new carb? Fuel pump? I really don't know what to try next. Any and all suggestions will be welcome, THANKS.

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Fordiesel69

10 HP Tecumseh carb problems...............now that's rare!!!!!

1.  Physically check to make sure you are getting good flow / volume from the pump.
2.  Buy the carb kit and drill out the two soft plugs.  Soak in digestive carb cleaner overnight.
3.  To make this, blend methyl ethyl keytone, acetone, laquer thinner, and just a touch of muriatic acid.  Or just buy the chem dip at walmart. 
4.  Where those soft plugs were, blow those tiny holes out with at least 125 psi air. 

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Kipling79

If you have to keep the choke closed in order to run, you are probably looking at an improper fuel to air ratio.

#1 You could either have too little incoming fuel, requiring the choke to be closed in order to reduce airflow to the proper mixture. SInce you have replaced the hose, filter, and fuel, your problem could be pump related or carb related. If the suggestions above don't work, you might be looking at the other end of the problem...

#2 You could be getting too much air from an unintended source, requiring the choke to be closed in order to reduce air from the intake. This could be caused by a leaking gasket somewhere, maybe the intake gasket? 

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Brian01

My 2¢.....check your main jet in carb,(middle of carb under the bowl) take the bowl off, check needle and seat, check the tab that hold float you can push it down or up just a bit to assure its getting proper flowflow. If it has a brass float, make sure it hasn't got a hole in it. In my experience, usually if it won't run unless choke it on it either has main jet clogged, or needle is sticking and flooding it to death.

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kudzu3

Thanks all. I'll go ahead and get a rebuild kit and get that done. Fordiesel, not real sure what you mean to drill out the soft plugs, but I'll figure it out, also, the fuel pump is directly attached to the carb, with no hose to disconnect, so how is the best way to check the pump? Please forgive my ignorance, but I'm learning. A little background on the tractor, I found it a couple of weeks ago, fantastic original condition, all decals in place, original wheel horse seat in near perfect condition, original wheel horse tires, rear tires are excellent, front tires are worn out. muffler has most of the original finish, no engine smoke or noise (when it runs). Came with excellent condition mower with original blades, never been sharpened but still very sharp, it is missing belt covers on mower deck. I want to make this one my worker, but have to get it running good. Thank you all for the excellent advice.

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Fordiesel69

Could we see a pic of the carb?

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oldredrider

Personally,  unless you are into self degradation, frustration and throwing your money away, get one of the carbs off ebay and be done with it.
I've gotten several of them and put each one on a motor with no adjustment and the ran fine. Made me a happy man!

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gwest_ca

I have to ask a question about these carbs.

Are you replacing the main jet after removal or are you modifying the original jet and reinstalling it? I have no experience with them but recall years ago this was a big item. Originally the holes in the jets are drilled after the jet is installed in the carb. Once the jet is removed the holes do not line up when reinstalled. The replacement jets have a groove cut in them to accommodate some misalignment of the drilled holes.

Or am I thinking of a different carb?

Garry

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Howie

A lot odf the tecumseh carbs are as you describe Won't get fuel unless groove is there.

David

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Fordiesel69

I agree with this statement.  I have bought several.

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kudzu3

Hopefully, the problem is solved, my new carb should be here Monday.:)

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kudzu3

Got the carb today, looks fine...but...the original fuel pump screws into the carb, the new one has the nipple for the gas line connection. Called the very nice and helpful supplier and he advised that the original carb is no longer available with the connection of the fuel pump directly to the carb and that if the fuel tank is higher than the carb that the pump is not necessary, gravity would do the job. I certainly don't mean to doubt this mans advice, he certainly seemed knowledgeable, but I've never heard of this before. Also, the pump works off engine compression (I guess) and has a hose from the pump to the bottom of the engine block, what do I do with this? Anybody have experience with this? I'm very confused. Thanks

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Howie

Like he said if tank is high enough should run with out the fuel pump. If the crankcase vacuum  fitting is threaded just take it out and put a small pipe plug in it.
If it doesn't screw out then just cap it off with one of the vacuum caps you can get in the Help section of the auto parts store. I think I left the pump off of a 
tractor I overhauled a couple of years ago.

David
 

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