Ignition Switch

[george.stringer@frontier.c 0]

My Charger 12 from 1968Model No. 7231 has a stator and coil under the flywheel which I replaced with a new one (237876-S).  I also got a new Ign. Sw. part No. 101482, still available from Toro that is supposed to replace the 7572 original 4 position switch.  My old Ign. Sw. had "B", "S", "M", "R", "L" terminals.  The new switch has off, run & start with only three terminals "M", "S", "B".  I know to put the wires from "L" on the "B" terminal, but where does the "R" wire go since there is no "R" terminal.    Gary (gwest_ca) If you see this please give me a call at 765-647-0482or anyone else that knows the answer.  Thanks!!!!  George

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,515]

Sounds like this switch has been replaced before.

Do you happen to have a starter solenoid between the battery and the starter? Heavy cable goes from battery (+) to the solenoid, another heavy cable going from the other solenoid large bolt to the starter and a smaller wire going to a small solenoid terminal?
I'm thinking the ignition switch you are trying to replace requires a solenoid. The new switch you have is designed to carry the heavy starter current without a solenoid and the reason they are so expensive.

I'm about 3 hours north of Toronto Ontario and in the middle of a huge project that involves glue that is time sensitive but watching the forum.

When I get a minute I will look for a wiring diagram that I think belongs to the old switch with the R terminal.

Garry

[george.stringer@frontier.c 0]

No no solenoid on this machine.  The big wires go to the switch and then down to BAT & Starter.  I checked the continuity on the old switch and found  a circuit between the B and R terminal in run -no other terminal had continuity with R in run.  Since the new switch has no “R” terminal, can I connect the R wire to the B terminal on the new ign. switch.  Thanks George

[george.stringer@frontier.c 0]

No, no solenoid on this machine.  The big wires go to the switch and then down to BAT & Starter.  I checked the continuity on the old switch and found  a circuit between the B and R terminal in run -no other terminal had continuity with R in run.  Since the new switch has no “R” terminal, can I connect the R wire to the B terminal on the new ign. switch.  Thanks George

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,515]

Yes you can connect the R wire to the B. That is the way it was originally wired.

This new switch should last much longer.

Garry

[george.stringer@frontier.c 0]

Thanks for all your help in getting this figured out.  In the future, if the switch goes bad again, i will change over to an external coil and solenoid.  For my tractor what would a wiring diagram look like and what coil & switch would I use.  Thanks George

 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,515]

I take it you have everything working again?

To switch to battery ignition
The points are the same for magneto and battery ignition
Condenser needs to be Kohler # 230722 (Napa 7-01338)
Ignition coil Kohler # 231281 or 47-145-01 (Napa 7-01634 includes the mounting bracket)
New spark plug wire with wire core and terminals each end
Ignition switch Toro # 103990 (Napa 7-01892 has a 9/16" mounting stem) Your mounting hole may be 5/8"
Ignition switch 5-wire connector with 18" leads you can splice in (Napa 7-01910)
Starter solenoid 3-pole with grounded base (Napa 7-01855) or one commonly used on older Fords

Most battery ignition switches to the end of 1973 had 4 key positions which are still available but expensive - #.101917 replaced by 92-6785
This is a 1974 wiring diagram for the C-Series tractors from this manual
http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/file/1959-tractor-1974-c-120-om-wiringpdf/
If you don't have the ammeter or safety switches the wiring is the same - just leave these items out.
A 1972 Kohler service manual lists the spark plug gap at .025" for the 10hp-16hp models but later manuals call for a .035" plug gap.

Garry
 

Edited June 9, 2015 by gwest_ca

[wrightorchid 261]

On the Ignition switch 5-wire connector with 18" leads you can splice in (Napa 7-01910)  you can change the wires around to get a closer match color wise.  This is a typical packard delphi 56 connector. There is a good video non u-tube that shows these. You can use a tiny screwdriver to bend the tab down that locks it into the plastic part.  This way your white, red, etc can be moved around to match with some of  your existing colors.  not all of them will match.  I used marine grade butt connectors with the shrink tubing to make the splices.  Be sure you have your wires in the correct positions, as they go into the ignition switch, as you look at the connector from behind (where the wires come out)