psalms83:18 174 #1 Posted June 2, 2015 Sorry guys but I have had a few issues building up on both my tractors and now I'm reaching out..the d-160 has had been thoroughly worked over....new oils, filters, plugs, wires, coil, and other thing under the shroud deals with electricity to the battery r somethin like that (regulator)?? New battery etc.....when I adjusted the gaps on the valves, it ran better instantly, but after 15-20min it reaches its full temp and runs so bad it barely runs, but also as it warms and runs crappyer by the minute the amp meter which starts at "20" amps at full throttle starts to diminish and slowly drops down to 5and kinda hovers there. When it does die and I turn the key to on the amp meter reads negative somethin. But once it's cool she starts anew again???? I think the running lousy is two fold, once it's warm she backfires and is really rough, I think the intake exhaust valves get out of whack, it seemed when I was adjusting them the adjuster but was way tight till I moved them to adjust them, and now are maybe ??too loose, but thread lock wouldn't hold under those temps. And the other issue electrical was blowing fuses left and right cause the amps were much higher than the original 10-15amp fuses ...the 20amp seems to be holding for now, but my Toyota has no wipers for now!! Lol other than this issue the d160 seems to be great, though I need some tire chains ....she slips around everywhere. the c-175 constantly chewing belts it just blew its belt today for the mower through the mule drive. Is that 5/8 - 103"??? And what is the ""strongest belt ever"no matter what I do the belt shakes and gets chewed up!! Like it needs an spring tensioner....I do adjust the tightness but too tight and it chews the belt and still shakes. What's with that??How do I or can u grease the mower deck spindles without ripping it all apart?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dhodge 528 #2 Posted June 3, 2015 (edited) I don't know if the D's have a battery ignition or not, but if so the battery needs to maintain a charge for the unit to run. Others who know will chime in. Coil can be going bad and will act up at running temps. valve gaps need to be adjusted to specs and yes you could have valve seat issues when she warms up. It is possible the valves and valve seats need to be cut so that you have a good intake and exhaust seat. Also sounds like a possible voltage regulator going bad. Double check your connection at the coil. I have seen people hook the two wires up back wards on the positive / negative connections. Not sure if the D is a Kohler or an Onan, but those are some items to check for off the top of my head.The C-175 either has a bad bearing in a mule drive pulley or possibly the center pulley on the deck itself. Do not over tighten the mule drive or you will pre-maturely wear out pully bearings.It's hard to know exactly, but check all the little things first. Remember the mule drive has two pulley's --one will except the v-belt and one will except the back side of the belt. You may already know those things but that's what I have to offer. Maybe someone with more knowledge of those two models will chime in.Good luck!! Edited June 3, 2015 by Dhodge 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daveoman1966 3,839 #3 Posted June 3, 2015 presuming you have a 48" side disch deck the correct belt is #102742. It is a 1/2" belt at 103" length. (New part # is 94-2501). You should use only the OEM belt as after-market belts are not geometrically identical, leading to premature their death. The MUST exactly match the contour of the V in the pulleys ...if not, they will have a propensity to roll and tightening them only makes it worse...not to mention undue strain on the 4 pulleys involved. Even so, aftermarket belt shouldn't immediately shred.... You probably have a bad pulley bearing or maybe the center spindle bearing has serious drag and needs replaced. Take the belt off and spin the mule pulleys and center pulley by hand. If those pass, there MAY be issues with other bearings in the deck causing the belt to work too hard to overcome bearing drag...like maybe the deck idler pulley. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tankman 3,523 #4 Posted June 3, 2015 (edited) Been using Huskee Kevlar belts on Horses for years. Local TSC store, available all day, inexpensive. Never had a problem.Pulley alignment or spindle shaft problem(s). Most likely your pain in the you-know-what. Edited June 3, 2015 by Tankman 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bmsgaffer 2,053 #5 Posted June 3, 2015 (edited) You have something you need to look at electrically. Generally after just starting you should NOT see the system putting out that much current, unless you have a dead battery. Even still it should only be high for a short time. EDIT: after re reading your description, that sounds like its working fairly normally. Starts out high when you first start recharging then drops to a normal amount in a few seconds.And you should NEVER replace fuses with a higher number than what was called for. They are designed that way for a reason and you should find out what is causing so much current draw that you are blowing the correct size fuses. If your coil/regulator (that electrical thing under the shroud) is shot or hooked up wrong you could be drawing a very high current possibly risking a fire in the future.Never think just because its new that its good! Also check your wiring for worn wires that could be causing a low-resistance connection somewhere that's not supposed to be there... Edited June 3, 2015 by bmsgaffer Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bmsgaffer 2,053 #6 Posted June 3, 2015 Oh and it sounds like your ammeter is working fine. It will be positive when your charging system is recharging your battery (putting in more electricity than its using) and it will be negative when your charging system is not operating or you are drawing more current than it can provide (like when the engine is not running) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
psalms83:18 174 #7 Posted June 3, 2015 (edited) Rear discharge and side discharge is same size belt right??regulator is brand new and amp meter drops slowly over 15 min not secondsbrand new battery someone mentioned that 15-20 amps will cook the battery!!regulator is hooked up correctly cause its running fineblowing 15 amp fuses I had to put in a 20 amp is there regulators that are 20 and some 15amp??? Cause maybe the new one I bought was a 20amp?? Edited June 3, 2015 by psalms83:18 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daveoman1966 3,839 #8 Posted June 3, 2015 108334 is the belt for 42" rear disch deck. 102742 is for 42 or 48 side disch deck. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bmsgaffer 2,053 #9 Posted June 3, 2015 The ammeters are not all that accurate, but I do know that on my 14 horse kohler It would only run 2-5 amps after starting the engine then after a couple minutes would go down to about 0.I would check your ground connections and your wires. Something is telling your charging system to put out full power when it shouldn't be necessary. Please record what voltage readings you get across the battery when the engine is running and when it is not.It doesn't matter which regulator you got for this problem as it should only put out the power that's necessary for battery charging and that shouldn't be anywhere near 15 amps. (But it would be good to check as you could eventually burn out your stator wiring under the flywheel if its pushing more current than its designed for. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
psalms83:18 174 #10 Posted June 4, 2015 (edited) The ammeters are not all that accurate, but I do know that on my 14 horse kohler It would only run 2-5 amps after starting the engine then after a couple minutes would go down to about 0.I would check your ground connections and your wires. Something is telling your charging system to put out full power when it shouldn't be necessary. Please record what voltage readings you get across the battery when the engine is running and when it is not.It doesn't matter which regulator you got for this problem as it should only put out the power that's necessary for battery charging and that shouldn't be anywhere near 15 amps. (But it would be good to check as you could eventually burn out your stator wiring under the flywheel if its pushing more current than its designed for. The ammeters are not all that accurate, but I do know that on my 14 horse kohler It would only run 2-5 amps after starting the engine then after a couple minutes would go down to about 0.I would check your ground connections and your wires. Something is telling your charging system to put out full power when it shouldn't be necessary. Please record what voltage readings you get across the battery when the engine is running and when it is not.It doesn't matter which regulator you got for this problem as it should only put out the power that's necessary for battery charging and that shouldn't be anywhere near 15 amps. (But it would be good to check as you could eventually burn out your stator wiring under the flywheel if its pushing more current than its designed for. what would tell or think on a. Stator motor that more or less electricity is needed, I'm mean how would or what would know to say that more amps were needed?? A low battery Edited June 4, 2015 by psalms83:18 not all that i typed got entered...cellphone error Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bmsgaffer 2,053 #11 Posted June 4, 2015 This is a bit oversimplified, just in case another electrical guy pops in here to critique my work... The stator/generator on your engine is producing voltage all the time and the rectifier/regulator (i think the thing on the cowl you were referring to earlier) adjusts the amount of power going from the stator to the battery. If it senses a low voltage (from either a low battery or a high system current draw like lights or other accessories) it will kick on with the proper amount of power to keep the battery at a charged state. The lower the voltage it sees the more power it provides.So you will want to trace all your wires looking for chaffed wires or corroded grounds starting from the stator following your wiring diagram. But you will need to test the AC voltage of the stator (while running) and the DC voltage of the battery (while running AND stopped) to get you started looking in the right direction.I will tag @Save Old Iron in here because he has some good troubleshooting techniques that he can walk you through (or at least link you to as he has done this on numerous threads on here already) with a basic voltmeter. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
psalms83:18 174 #12 Posted June 4, 2015 Thanks that seems like a decent starting point for the onan....could it be when the regulator starts to put out less electricity it would give me the backfiring dragging loss of power?? Or should we assume that's another issue to be addressed after electrical?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
psalms83:18 174 #13 Posted June 4, 2015 (edited) as for the c horse only one side of the belt vibrates...not the deck or anything else...its either the up or down side..cant remember . Edited June 4, 2015 by psalms83:18 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
psalms83:18 174 #14 Posted June 4, 2015 maybe alignement issues?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
psalms83:18 174 #15 Posted June 4, 2015 aaahhhhh so frustrating messages not posting everything I put it them....aaaahh HULK SMASH Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
psalms83:18 174 #17 Posted June 4, 2015 Above picthe adjuster nut on the onan was wicked"" tight,,,once I adjusted the gap the nut didn't seem to be able to tighten to anything it seems like its supposed to be tight but it adjusts by spinning in the rocker roller peice ....thread lock wouldn't hold at those temps, and please don't say Teflon tape!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bmsgaffer 2,053 #18 Posted June 4, 2015 What onan engine is it? (Model number?)The newer ones are electronic but the older ones were points and condenser I think... Not sure on that someone else will have to comment.And yes, if your electrical issues are dropping that much voltage or having connectivity issues that can most definitely cause backfiring and poor running.Someone else will have to make mention on the valves... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
psalms83:18 174 #19 Posted June 8, 2015 Above picthe adjuster nut on the onan was wicked"" tight,,,once I adjusted the gap the nut didn't seem to be able to tighten to anything it seems like its supposed to be tight but it adjusts by spinning in the rocker roller peice ....thread lock wouldn't hold at those temps, and please don't say Teflon tape!! no ideas?? is it just worn out??? Which kinda wouldn't make sense to me Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bmsgaffer 2,053 #20 Posted June 8, 2015 You may want to break out the valve adjustment issue into its own thread in "Engines". Sometimes the guys that are experts in certain fields may overlook a non-specific topic. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
psalms83:18 174 #21 Posted June 17, 2015 So check this new belt seems like the mule isn't very straight?? Belt is gonna rub on the bottom right side Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
psalms83:18 174 #22 Posted June 17, 2015 a large washer seemed to give me my space, we'll see if it threw off the balance or alignment of anythin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WNYPCRepair 1,923 #23 Posted June 18, 2015 Shouldn't that belt be on the outside PTO pulley? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
psalms83:18 174 #24 Posted June 18, 2015 Maybe should be...but the belt came down to the pulley straighter when it was on the inside.little bit of the blue wore off but the belt stayed in tact for an hour of mowing....then I started getting some rattling from the deck. I'm thinking a spindle is giving up on me. It started getting louder quickly as it ran, so I shut her down again till I get it figured out, I'll post some pics..o and congrats on Steve from Vermont on his first purchase of a wheel horse, I told him to sign up on here so maybe we will see him soon. He purchased my D160 tonight! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WNYPCRepair 1,923 #25 Posted June 18, 2015 I could be wrong, I don't have a deck on anything at the moment Share this post Link to post Share on other sites