sigmark 3 #1 Posted May 26, 2015 I have a '75/76 Wheel Horse C160 in need of a rebuild or new carburetor. I will have it done by a mechanic, never was much for this type of a repair, but I would like to have the parts in hand when doing so. So can you recommend a supplier and or parts I would need. Thinking a replacement carb would be my choice. Is there more info needed on the existing carb? Thanks for the input and help. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chorusguy 222 #2 Posted May 26, 2015 You may need to buy or make a gasket and also some gasket adhesive. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sigmark 3 #4 Posted May 26, 2015 How hard are these to install actually? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
scotty 252 #5 Posted May 26, 2015 A carb is very simple to install should be no more than a 5 minute job. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pacer 3,159 #6 Posted May 27, 2015 A carb change out is indeed a pretty basic job and even for a rookie shouldnt be to bad - bare minimum of tools and straight forward unbolt/bolt,Remove air cleaner and its mounting - 3 straight blade screws.Remove fuel line from side of carb.Disconnect the throttle mechanism at the top of the carb, this may be a "pop" off or possible have a small nut holding it.If you choke cable is like most leave it til carb is loose from engine - youll see whyLoosen the 2 nuts holding the carb (1/2" open end wrench) leave one backed out 3-4 turns and remove the other (this will ease replacing it later)At this point the carb should only be still connected to the choke cable, turn the carb in such a manner that the twisted end of the wire will slip out of its hole --- important! on re-installing reconnect the choke cable first thing, its impossible to get it back otherwise.Reassemble the rest.On the subject of the choke, carefully look at the manner the choke lever comes out of the body of you carb and verify the one you have chosen matches yours. These import carbs have a wonderful price but some of the choke connections dont match up to our horses (ask me how I know!!)If at any point you get flumoxxed, holler out here and some body will bail you out....Good luck 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slovinski 42 #7 Posted May 27, 2015 Im not the best mechanic on the block, but I just did the same aftermarket type carb on a k181. Just follow the outline pacer posted and you will be fine. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sigmark 3 #8 Posted May 27, 2015 Thanks all. Printed notes, ordering carb in a few minutes. Looking forward to breathing new life in the beast. Another question, how closely 'tuned' will the carb be out of the box? Thanks again. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pacer 3,159 #9 Posted May 27, 2015 The carb should be 'ready' as is. With the throttle set at high rpm it should be smooth and steady with no surging, etc,The brass screw head on the very top of the body is the metering jet, if the engine 'hunts/surges' make a very slight turn either way and see if it helps. The screw on the side of the carb is an idle adjustment and rarely needs attention.Let us know how it goes... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sigmark 3 #10 Posted June 1, 2015 (edited) Got my Carb today, and a air cleaner and trying to track down a spark plug. Two local places had Autolite, one didnt recommend running the Autolite in small engines, one said thats all they use in their Kohler engines. I got a '3924'. Still would like to track down some Champion RH10 plugs, the right ones, correct? But the ones I see online are RH10C... Are these the ones, does the 'C' matter? Thoughts? Thanks again, time to cut me a gasket (any tips?). Edited June 1, 2015 by sigmark added content Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oldredrider 2,547 #11 Posted June 1, 2015 Should be a Champion H10C plug. R designates a resistor plug. The Autolite plug equivalent is a 216. Champion plugs ain't what they used to be. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sigmark 3 #12 Posted June 3, 2015 (edited) Had a chance to work on the ol C160 today. Took forever to get the hood off, speeded up the process on the last stuck bolt thanks to the saws all. Got carb off fairly easily, took a long time to clean old, old gunky gasket. Had a fair share of issues trying to line every thing up to install. Took me awhile, but got it. Only thing is, the choke lever is reversed, not sure if thats on me or what. But, hey it started after draining and putting in some fresh gas and about 3 hits of starter fluid. Also put in new battery, plug and filter. Still need to get a battery cable to replace the cruddy one, and a bolt so I can put the hood on. Sure nice to have it running again. Thanks all. Short video for your entertainment, okay mine. mower.mp4 Edited June 3, 2015 by sigmark added content Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rustykan 140 #13 Posted June 10, 2015 Had a chance to work on the ol C160 today. Took forever to get the hood off, speeded up the process on the last stuck bolt thanks to the saws all. Got carb off fairly easily, took a long time to clean old, old gunky gasket. Had a fair share of issues trying to line every thing up to install. Took me awhile, but got it. Only thing is, the choke lever is reversed, not sure if thats on me or what. But, hey it started after draining and putting in some fresh gas and about 3 hits of starter fluid. Also put in new battery, plug and filter. Still need to get a battery cable to replace the cruddy one, and a bolt so I can put the hood on. Sure nice to have it running again. Thanks all. Short video for your entertainment, okay mine. mower.mp4 My aftermarket carb was the same way. Had to take off the choke lever, flip it around and was able to peen the shaft so it would stay on. Carb works great so far! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
