1973 10hp - 8 Speed Refresh

[rmaynard 14,909]

If you have to do it over, try Case-IH 2150 red. It's a little pricey ($9.95 for a rattle can), but it's the closest thing to VRS that I have found.  

[MikesRJ 552]

Now you tell me, Bob!  Too late, this is a refresh and not a restore. It is what it is.

Edited June 8, 2015 by MikesRJ

[MikesRJ 552]

They say necessity is the mother of invention, and I will freely admit that this one falls under the heading of; "dumb things you figure out while restoring old tractors". While pulling the tractor apart I noticed that all four flange bushings (2 for the fender pan pivot point, and 2 for the manual PTO handle {WH P/N: 7879} ) were almost completely gone. I figured they were a common part and I'd buy four to replace them and be done with it. Well, they are an available part ... if you want to pay $10 a piece for them at Toro. While looking for a couple of odds and ends at Tractor Supply, I saw these "1/2" Axle Cap Nuts". I knew the inner diameter was 1/2" to accept the 1/2" rod, I could grind off the cap, and those barbs could be moved or ground off, to make the flange bearings I needed. Plus they are exactly the same OD as the pressed holes in the Dashboard Riser and Fender pivot bracket. They worked like a charm and they're only $1.79 per 2 ea. I have included pictures below.

Note the top of cap is ground off, and the locking tabs pressed back into the body using a punch and small hammer.

Edited June 7, 2015 by MikesRJ

[rmaynard 14,909]

Rube Goldberg McGuire

[MikesRJ 552]

Wait till you see the new wiring harness, Bob!
 

Edited June 7, 2015 by MikesRJ

[MikesRJ 552]

Thoroughly disgusted with this Rustoleum Regal Red paint, to the point that the hood and fender pan will be stripped to bare metal and re-primed. I think I'm going to go with Bob's suggestion and use the Case/IH paint.

Other than that I got some decals on, the dash competed, engine installed, manual PTO assembled, fuel tank re-colored and installed, and fed up with Rustoleum.
 

Edited June 13, 2015 by MikesRJ

[MikesRJ 552]

Amazing Discovery - I thought their was something wrong with the rustoleum paints, but ...  Rust-oleum paints cannot be sprayed over epoxy paint, even when the epoxy paint is sanded smooth and spot primed. The paint had wrinkled like a prune after it began to dry, so I decided to go back to bare metal and start all over again on the hood and fender pan. Funny thing is, it damn near peeled off like Plasti-Dip Spray. So ... I stripped them down to bare metal and re-primed. Going back into paint tomorrow after a good wet-sanding to 2000 grit. On the brighter side, I got the Foot Rests and Belt Guard sand blasted, primed and in paint. They will be installed tomorrow. Maybe this machine will make it to the show! 

 

UPDATE: The storm passed us by, so the fender pan makes it to paint tonight!
 

Edited June 12, 2015 by MikesRJ

[rmaynard 14,909]

My epoxy primer came with instructions that says it must be recoated within 48 to 72 hours in order to get a chemical bond. After that time, it must be sanded to create a mechanical bond. Since I have never seen an epoxy that dried smooth enough to put a finish coat on without sanding, I always sand it with 320/400 grit, then I recoat it with a primer/filler, followed by a primer/sealer, and then my top coat.

[MikesRJ 552]

That's the funny thing Bob, I sanded and spot primed, then finish sanded to 400. I wonder if the 400 wasn't "mechanical" enough? You'll see at the show perhaps, it "pruned" in several places on the frame. Since this is a refresh vs. a restore, I'm really not sweating it that far.

UPDATE: Just enough daylight left to get one more part ...

 

Edited June 13, 2015 by MikesRJ

[rmaynard 14,909]

Let's hope this time is the charm. Looks good so far. 

[MikesRJ 552]

I just went out and checked (11:30pm). We're golden!

[MikesRJ 552]

Got a bit more done today. Belt Covers and Foot Rests installed, Foot Rest Mats fabricated, a few more decals attached, and .. oh yea, the Fender Pan and Hood are in clear-coat. Tomorrow starts the harness fabrication and buff out that clear-coat.
 

 

 

 

Edited June 13, 2015 by MikesRJ

[MikesRJ 552]

No pictures this time around, but the Hood is completely installed except the hood ornament, Fender Pan is completely installed except the seat, wiring harness is fabricated except the head and tail lights, new throttle and choke cables installed, fuel tank and fuel lines installed and cut to length, and the engine even turns over. All in all, it was a good days work.

 

[857 horse 2,581]

mike,,,,,,,,,,,,,,your a monster !!!!!!!!!!!!!

paint not included....lolololo

[rmaynard 14,909]

Wow Mike, and I just stripped my hood and fender pan again.

[MikesRJ 552]

I feel your pain, Bob. Been there many times. It'll come, just don't force it.

Hell, I was thinking I didn't get all done I wanted to get done this weekend. I didn't get the hood and pan buffed out! LOL

Edited June 17, 2015 by MikesRJ

[rmaynard 14,909]

Weather permitting, I might get the top coat on mine this weekend. I decided to completely strip it down to the bare metal, prime and repaint with acrylic urethane. That way I can get it assembled and put the decals on without having to wait 30 days for the paint to cure.

[MikesRJ 552]

That's why I used Eastwood's 2K Clearcoat. Muuuuuuch faster. In the rattle can, of course. Once I get the machine started and tuned up this weekend, I'll get to the hood and pan, get the tires off and rims painted, steering wheel and lift handle recolored, then get the seat back on and maybe the rest of the decals. That's the plan anyway. We'll see how it goes.

Edited June 18, 2015 by MikesRJ

[MikesRJ 552]

Got a lot more done today!   Pretty damn happy with the results too.
It's not perfect, there are certainly a few sags and bugs in the paint, but then again this was a refresh on a "working machine", not a restore.
- Wet sanded hood and fender pan down to 2K grit, compounded,  and polished out.
- All the remaining tractor decals installed.
- Rebuilt Engine started and carburetor tuned in. Runs like a champ, thank God!
- Installed "new" muffler.
- Installed hood ornament.
- Seat and Brackets installed.
- Head and Tail Lights installed, but not wired yet.
- Polished most of the rest of the tractor.
- All that's left is rims and wheels, color the steering wheel and lift handle, wire the lights, and a myriad of other small details.

 

Edited June 21, 2015 by MikesRJ

[Jake Kuhn 1,547]

Looks great! Look forward to checking this one out in person!

[rmaynard 14,909]

Looking good Mike.

[MikesRJ 552]

Only if i can locate another trailer Jake! My original option  faded and now I'm stuck unless I find another loaner.  

Thanks, Bob!  

Edited June 21, 2015 by MikesRJ

[martinarcher 59]

Looking great Mike!  Couple questions that could help my out with my B-100...

1.  How did you shine up your head?   I like the aluminum raw like you are running it.  I'm nervous painting the entire engine due to cooling issues.  The bare head I feel would help with cooling. 

2.  How did you color the fuel tank?   Looks great! 

3.  Did you paint a muffler in good shape?  What paint did you use? 

Thanks!   Keep up the good work! 

[MikesRJ 552]

Viola! - Finished 1973 10HP 8-Speed "Refresh"

So what started out as a spun rod, turned into an engine rebuild, which turned into a full blown engine restore, which turned into a tractor "refresh", which ultimately turned into this shiny red picture of beauty! LOL All in less than 30 calendar days, too. Sheesh! Time for a rest. Glad the BIG Show is only a few days away.



 

Edited June 22, 2015 by MikesRJ

[MikesRJ 552]

MartinArcher,

The Cylinder Head: I have a customer with two sand blasters. One is glass bead and the other is walnut shells. The top side only is blasted with glass bead, then "polished" with walnut shells. I duct taped the entire bottom of the head (several layers), and leave an old plug tightly screwed into the head. My engine blocks are always painted with high temp automotive engine paint, and the shrouds are done in whatever paint I use on the tractor.

The Tank: VHT Vinyl Dye - Chevy Red. Same goes for the Fuel Cap, but in VHT Vinyl Dye - Gloss Jet Black. Just remove the breather parts before you spray the cap, and ream the cap breather hole to 1/16" after it dries. Then reinstall the breather parts. If you have a black tank, which was common, use the VHT Gloss Jet Black on it.

The Muffler: Had one in good shape, lightly sand blasted to remove surface rust, then sprayed with 1200 degree Rust-Oleum High Heat spray paint in silver. You could use black as well, but silver is what I had sitting on the shelf (this is a refresh, right?). Be careful blasting old mufflers. The metal could be thin in spots and you can blast right through if you're not careful.

Edited June 22, 2015 by MikesRJ