bizzo15 52 #1 Posted May 14, 2015 So in my search for a blower for my 312-8, I came across an ad on Craigslist where a guy was selling a 310-8 with a 42' side discharge mower deck and tall chute blower, the guy wouldn't separate the blower from the tractor so I beat him up enough on the price that I bought the whole setup. It's a 1990 and is in fairly good shape, mechanically it runs great and physically it has some surface rust but nothing major. I noticed while mowing with it for the first time the other day that the hood is contacting the throttle lever causing the tractor not to run at full speed, at first I couldn't figure out why, but after looking at the hood on my 312-8 I noticed there's a metal tab that contacts the dash and keeps it at a certain height, the 310 doesn't have this tab it looks like it rotted away. Has anyone else had this issue? If so how did you fix it? I don't have a welder so I won't be able to weld anything but could possibly have someone do it. The other option I was thinking of was riveting a metal tab on there. If I come across a good deal on a hood I may just swap it out as I do plan on doing some paintwork to the tractor. Which years/models of hoods will fit my 310-8? Also the rear tires on this are weather checked and don't hold air for very long. Currently they have 23x8.50-12's on there. I'm trying to find a set of decent shape used ones but I am having trouble finding any in that size. What other sizes will fit these rims without any issues? P.S. I'll grab some pics of the tractor later, I know everybody loves pics. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daveoman1966 3,612 #2 Posted May 14, 2015 In the interest of frugality, buy tubes for the tires. If you buy used tires to replace the 23 8.5 12s you are likely to have the same slow-leak issue so just put tubes in the tires you have. If they aren't badly cracked, tubes should be fine. 20 bux ought to buy an inner tube. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tankman 3,515 #3 Posted May 14, 2015 Good luck with your new 310. Good Horse! Yeah, just pop rivet a stop on. That'll work, won't bother you after a few mo's. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 10,296 #4 Posted May 14, 2015 All 300-400 series hoods will fit just fine. If there's any exceptions I'm sure someone will speak up. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
doc724 924 #5 Posted May 14, 2015 I like Tankman's recommendation. A small piece of 16 ga steel and pop rivets will work just fine. I have also taken to adding a piece of gas line tubing, sliced lengthwise and slipped over the dash to keep the hood from wiggling around. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tankman 3,515 #6 Posted May 14, 2015 I like Tankman's recommendation. A small piece of 16 ga steel and pop rivets will work just fine. I have also taken to adding a piece of gas line tubing, sliced lengthwise and slipped over the dash to keep the hood from wiggling around. Same here, sliced fuel line works great. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 51,775 #7 Posted May 15, 2015 I don't know how well a tube would do in the old tires, mine were weather checked and you could feel separation for inside. I got a can of green slime from TS and they only need air occasionally rather than weekly. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bizzo15 52 #8 Posted May 15, 2015 Ok, here's some pics of the 310-8, she's no show queen, but a solid horse for sure. As you can see the deck is in fairly good shape except where the cutting height adjustment is there is some cancer, luckily it looks like a fairly straight forward fix. I am having an issue with the tractor though, after I power washed it greased it, changed the oil and put the deck back on I took it for a spin I noticed that the tractor wasn't moving as fast as it should, especially in third gear, and then when I tried to go up an incline it just stopped, at first I thought I lost traction and the tires were spinning but that wasn't the case. Is this a simple case of the belt being wet from power washing the tractor or is it a more serious issue? I mowed with it for an hour and a half two days ago and didn't have an issue going up and down the hills in my yard. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Foozerush 40 #9 Posted May 15, 2015 Take it for a spin tomorrow after it dries, if it still does it, check key ways on hubs and pulley on trans..... But sounds like a wet belt to me..... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bizzo15 52 #10 Posted May 15, 2015 Yeah... I'm pretty sure that's what it is so I will report back tomorrow if it still does it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bizzo15 52 #11 Posted May 17, 2015 So after a couple days of sitting in the garage, I had a chance today to take the 310 around the yard to see if the issue I was having was from a wet belt after washing the tractor. Well I'm sad to say that was not the case as the tractor is still exhibiting the same symptoms, slower than normal speed in any of the gears and if you attempt to go up any sort of incline the tractor stops completely and kinda bucks like it wants to move forward but can't. One interesting thing I noticed is that if I put it in lo range I can climb an incline(albeit at a snails pace). Guess I'm going to have to start tearing into this tractor to see what's going on. Foozerush suggested I check the keyways on the hubs and the trans pulley but is there anything else I should be looking for based on the symptoms the tractor is exhibiting? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bizzo15 52 #12 Posted May 18, 2015 Ok, so I had some free time tonight and tore the tractor down so I could get to the drive belt and pulley's and the keyways and pulley's all look fine and it appears that I just have a stretched/worn out drive belt. Since I've never had to replace one of these before I made a little video just to confirm that the belt is in fact stretched/looser than it should be before I drop the coin on a replacement belt. Here's the video, please confirm or debunk my suspicions, thanks!https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4906sIyHkVo Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
baerpath 517 #13 Posted May 18, 2015 Have you tried adjusting it ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bizzo15 52 #14 Posted May 18, 2015 I have not, it did not look like there was any adjustment to be made but then again I'm green when it comes to working on wheel horses other than basic maintenance. You wouldn't happen to have a link to an adjustment procedure would you? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daveoman1966 3,612 #15 Posted May 18, 2015 (edited) I watched you video. (1) The power-wash MAY have been a mistake. Replace the belt. It s/b #7473 Edited May 18, 2015 by daveoman1966 my comments are incorrect Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bizzo15 52 #16 Posted May 18, 2015 hmmm, seems a bit confusing, so the belt is supposed to be that loose even when the clutch pedal isn't depressed? It's just weird I bought the tractor, brought it home, mowed my half acre lawn with it without a hiccup and then decided a couple days later to give the tractor a good washing, grease job and an oil change and when I took it for a spin around the yard I noticed it was moving slower than normal in any given gear and won't climb any hills unless it's in the low gear range. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bizzo15 52 #17 Posted May 18, 2015 I see I'm going to order a new belt then and go from there. Any tips on cleaning up the pulley's while I have everything apart? Also how are you guys jacking these tractor's up and support them? I tried a regular automotive jack under the rear end but the front axle makes it teeter. Thanks guys Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bizzo15 52 #18 Posted May 20, 2015 No tips on the pulley's can I use some emery cloth to clean the faces or will that allow the belt to grip too much when the clutch is not engaged? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Foozerush 40 #19 Posted May 20, 2015 I would just pressure wash the whole tractor, grease/lube everything, can't see the pulleys with the belt guard on anyways.... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Callen 64 #20 Posted May 20, 2015 Move your clutch pedal, lube every joint that moves including the pedal and bushing in the frame that the shaft goes through. Check for the return spring that hooks to the fulcrum arm and on the transmission web by the axle on the left side. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bizzo15 52 #21 Posted May 20, 2015 I would just pressure wash the whole tractor, grease/lube everything, can't see the pulleys with the belt guard on anyways.... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk I did power wash and grease the machine, which afterwards is when I noticed the belt issue. I already have the fender pan, foot well, and belt guard off awaiting my new belt, I just wondered if there was anything I should do to clean the pulley's before I install a new belt. Move your clutch pedal, lube every joint that moves including the pedal and bushing in the frame that the shaft goes through. Check for the return spring that hooks to the fulcrum arm and on the transmission web by the axle on the left side. I've already greased all the zerk fittings on the tractor, what am I checking for with the return spring? Just that it's still there, or is there an adjustment that can be done to it?Thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buckrancher 2,675 #22 Posted May 20, 2015 check the clutch return spring may not be the correct one belt looks ok to me just not enough tensionBrian Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bmsgaffer 2,043 #23 Posted May 20, 2015 I also vote for something wrong with the return spring for the clutch, as that is what tensions the belt.To those who own the newer models: is this one of the ones with the gas-shock clutch return/damper? I know i have heard of a lot of those going bad, but I don't know what models they came on.Take it for a ride around and get your foot behind the clutch pedal and pull back towards you... If she takes off, then you are probably due for a new spring. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bizzo15 52 #24 Posted May 20, 2015 Just to be clear... the tractor moves when in gear and foot off the clutch, it just doesn't have the speed that it should and when it tries to go up any sort of incline it stops completely, and will buck like it's trying to move but can't. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bizzo15 52 #25 Posted May 23, 2015 So today I had some time to work on this, and the clutch return spring was intact and looked to be in good shape, so I threw the new drive belt on and buttoned the tractor back up and took it for a spin. It can climb hills without any issues now and appears to be completely fixed. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites