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quahog

Grinding

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quahog

I recently changed my drive belt on my 856 .Depress clutch to engage any gear and it grinds.BAD . Reinstall orig belt same issue. What happened over such a simple task ? At very low idle clutch engaged it will go into gear but not happily .The thought of splitting the case scares me.I can not figure this one. Quahog

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rmaynard

Did you forget to put the belt guard back on?


Oh by the way :WRS:

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daveoman1966

Like Bob says...the belt guard MUST be on...and be on right.  If not, the belt will continue to spin the input pulley and that causes the gear grinding.  The belt MUST be completely stopped when moving between gears, or from a dead stop.  Don't even try to move from gear to gear on-the-go.  These are NOT synchromesh transmissions. 

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quahog

Thanks for the help. Cover is on as is older belt/ more worn but performs better. Gates # 12700 or a 1/2 by 70 " . I am not sure its correct part for the 856 ? The new belt offers more problems to shift and relax pulley even as same size. Would aprreciate correct # OE was 1576 but not much help currently. As an aside I would love a decent supplier who understands the older models for parts. Google is not much help really. I realize forums tend not to offer private sales folks on line. Anyway thanks again for promt response and info . I am aware of crash box transmissions owning a 38 Morgan three wheeler... quahog

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Racinbob

Check out the manuals section here and search for 856. You'll find the owners manual which will explain the fine tuning you may need to do on the belt guard tabs. :)

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quahog

Can you be a bit more specific as to manual for the 856 and belt guard info? I found loads of new info but soon learned I can be sent to time out for the day. I did note not all belts are the same and now playing with brake band vs idler pulley for clutch release balance . Brake rod is at full thread yet not real effective.Thanks for newbie patience. quahog

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stevasaurus

Here is the link to the manual for your 856...just click on the link.  :)

 

http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/download/1843-tractor-1966-856-da-om-ipl-wiring-687pdf/

 

The #1576 is the original Wheel Horse #...the belt is a 70" x 1/2".  It is worth it to get your belt from your TORO dealer.  The belt is made with a different bevel then a belt from (say) NAPA.  The TORO belt is made to slip on the drive pulley when the clutch is depressed.  The tabs under the belt cover funnel the slack in the belt towards the drive pulley when the clutch is depressed, and this lets the transmission input pulley come to a stop so you can shift without grinding.  :)

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quahog

I have learned a ton in just a few days ! I bought this 856 beauty w/ plow and chains a year ago for $300 . I am use to a collection of Morgan race cars and collection , so forgive me. A body shop owner/ restorer most me life.. and clam digger. Never mind.After a few sleepless nights I got it figured and you are correct on the belt diffs.Thanks to site info .. BUT the problem relates more to the hub brake side !The nut was set all the way up restricting R/ side idler pulley from full ' relax' position to engage gears. A well worn belt did not care. I slackened the nut L/ side to allow more movement of idler pulley R / side as they work together. It now makes sense to the purpose of the E brake locking lever as well ! A minor problem with clutch rod and pedal due to my stupidity now fixed. Can not wait to do a modest cosmetic fix up > As a painter/ restorer I am glad to assist in this department... to all at Red Square..Thanks quahog

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