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groundhog47

1533 bearing production

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groundhog47

Has anyone ever approached a bearing manufacturer to check feasibility of reproducing the 1533?

Does Toro hold a patent or some form of "you can't produce.." clause?

I sent contact to a company to check on what they think (reproduce 1000 units) and will get back with report.

The quantity may not be enough to even get a reply, but thought worth a check. I may be way out in space on this :deadhorse:  

 

Well, did find this

Edited by groundhog47

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groundhog47

Well, I guess my paltry sum wasn't worth their time. No one replied. Gee, was really hopin to get them interested :oops: !

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Racinbob

Nice idea and try Gerry but you're probably right. 1000 bearings in their world just doesn't make sense. Even if they did make them I would imagine the cost would floor us. I can't help but wonder why Wheel Horse used those bearings. All the other bearings cross over to something available except that one. You'd think it was used in some other application but I don't think anybody has found out what that could be. :scratchead:

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pfrederi

A few years ago the bearing house indicated 10,000 would be the minimum order for a firm to make them.

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groundhog47

A few years ago the bearing house indicated 10,000 would be the minimum order for a firm to make them.

Yeah, be a long time using that supply up. Had even considered them make parts and I'd assemble if could get the snap in or wrap edge cage.

 

Nice idea and try Gerry but you're probably right. 1000 bearings in their world just doesn't make sense. Even if they did make them I would imagine the cost would floor us. I can't help but wonder why Wheel Horse used those bearings. All the other bearings cross over to something available except that one. You'd think it was used in some other application but I don't think anybody has found out what that could be. :scratchead:

Oh well another dream gone poof. Well at least our machinist friends are around and have the expertise.

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Lagersolut

The original 1533 was made in Japan was it not ?

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rmaynard

Since the first uni-drive came out in 1961, Japanese stuff was still considered to be junk. I doubt that Wheel Horse would have entered into an agreement with a Japanese manufacturer until sometime later.

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WH nut

I have been researching a replacement for this bearing but I didn't have the exact measurements with me at work today. I came up with a thought though. Why couldn't you use a tapered roller bearing installed with the bearing cone up and drive the race in on top of it. Im pretty sure I can come up with something that will work if the bearing bore is in fact 2.5. I don't work again until next weekend but I will see what I can come up with.

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groundhog47

I have been researching a replacement for this bearing but I didn't have the exact measurements with me at work today. I came up with a thought though. Why couldn't you use a tapered roller bearing installed with the bearing cone up and drive the race in on top of it. Im pretty sure I can come up with something that will work if the bearing bore is in fact 2.5. I don't work again until next weekend but I will see what I can come up with.

2 1/2 od x 1 1/2 id x 1/2 thick. Also thought of this but not in way you mention. The tapered roller would prob work as well if not better. Thickness seems to be a prob if I searched properly, maybe not extensively enough though! :handgestures-thumbup:

Edited by groundhog47

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WH nut

So it cant be any taller than a half inch, is there any wiggle room to play with?

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groundhog47

So it cant be any taller than a half inch, is there any wiggle room to play with?

If memory serves me correctly, inner race and outer race flush with "pocket" top. The actual play between diff case ends (in between bearings) I do not know, but there surely is some, although minimal. I wouldn't even begin to know, but would guess a strait edge across case and a depth to top of "pocket" on both halves of case as compared to actual to properly torqued diff case width at final machined portion (where should stop against race) would show that. Still with some play as long as tapered outer race holds in tight against bearing (but bearing might wander backwards) it should work, even if a shim is required. In the standard placement definitely a shim would be required. Once heated (if gets hot enough)the expansion is entered into play also! If you find a supplier and part no. send me a pm, I would be happy to try if in $10 range.     

Edited by groundhog47

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WH nut

I will see what i can come up with. Like I said I don't work until the weekend and I will scour the books again

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WH nut

Sorry guys, no luck a bearing. Nothing I figured I could even make work

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