wfrpalm 218 #1 Posted April 5, 2015 The battery cables on my 875 are in poor condition and I don't believe they are the original cables anyways and I am going to replace them. Any suggestions on the replacements, should I just get aftermarket cables, what do the stock cables look like? What kind of hardware should I use, it has rusty mismatched nuts, bolts and washers on it now. Thanks, I can't wait to drive the tractor again now that the weather is getting nice. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 16,211 #2 Posted April 5, 2015 Do you have a Battery Warehouse in your area? I always take my old cables there and for about $5.00 per cable they make me new ones with the proper size terminals on the ends. Just measure how long a cable you need, and what kind of terminal you need on the end of the wire. You can get black or red, but I always use black for everything. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 43,435 #3 Posted April 15, 2015 I have mine made also. But I use red for positive because I'm a Banana Head and would likely hook up a charger backwards! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
64s 83 #4 Posted April 15, 2015 I get mine at Wal-mart. I might have to fold up some excess cable, but quick and cheap. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wfrpalm 218 #5 Posted April 15, 2015 I will probably just buy a couple of cables from Wal-Mart or someplace similar but I am having another problem right now, I can't get it to turn over. I was having this problem sometimes last your and I don't know if it is the switch or bad connections / wires. The battery is fully charged but I am not sure if it has enough CCA. The tractor is about an hour away and it was in a very muddy area Saturday when I was trying to get it started. What is the box on top of the generator, one of the terminals would occasionaly spark when I would turn the key. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 43,435 #6 Posted April 15, 2015 The box on top is the voltage regulator. You have bad connections. Even a lower CCA battery would spin it over. If you don 't know much about electrical systems, your best bet is to get the tractor indoors at least so you can spend enough time to work on it or get it to someone who can. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 11,888 #7 Posted April 17, 2015 Clean and tighten down all the connections. The sparking you mentioned sounds like one or more of them are loose on the regulator. Start there and get back to us on what you find. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wfrpalm 218 #8 Posted April 17, 2015 Clean and tighten down all the connections. The sparking you mentioned sounds like one or more of them are loose on the regulator. Start there and get back to us on what you find. Will do, but I might have to wait a week because of work. Thanks for all the replies. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wfrpalm 218 #9 Posted April 25, 2015 I had time to work on the 875 today and here is what happened. I tried to start it before I did anything and it turned over many times but would not start. ( I later checked the tank and it was almost empty ) After the 3rd or 4th time I turned the key and the motor would not turn over. I checked the terminals on the switch with a multimeter and when the switch was on it was showing 12.6 volts at the terminal going to the coil but no voltage at the terminal going to the voltage regulator. I tuned the key to the start position and held it there but it still would not show voltage. Does this prove it is the switch? If it is the switch should I get a new one or can I fix mine somehow? Thanks, any help is appreciated. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 11,888 #10 Posted April 25, 2015 (edited) So, you have voltage at the 'B' terminal? It should be hot all the time. Holding the key to the momentary start position should give you power at the 'S' terminal. In the run position 'I' will remain hot and S will not. Per the diagram there should be a green wire to the regulator and it should remain hot. Remember though, electricity is colorblind and that green wire may have been changed out over the years. Edited April 25, 2015 by Racinbob Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 11,888 #11 Posted April 25, 2015 oops! I didn't really answer your question. If you don't have continuity between 'B' and 'S' with the switch held in the start position then yes, the switch is bad. I suppose it could be taken apart and repaired but it's not likely it will last because the contacts will be screwed up. You'd be much better off getting a new one. I would probably mount a solenoid and make the appropriate changes but you may not want to get in to that. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wfrpalm 218 #12 Posted May 12, 2015 Well I bought a new switch ( thanks new2horses ) but the cables on the tractor are too short and so stiff that they have no play and I can not connect them up. I found cables at TSC and other places but they all have 3/8" holes on both ends. I can not find a local place to make up cables though I found a company on the internet but they want $36 for the cable that goes to the battery and the cable that goes to the generator. Anyone have another solution or should I just pay the $36 and get it up and running again. Thanks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
