stuppy62 58 #1 Posted March 29, 2015 I picked-up very nice 1974 C-120, kept under a tarp in shed, looks to be completely original. It says C-120 on tins, but # don't match. Model #10385 on dash makes it a C162 & motor is HH160, which is a 16 h.p. Tech.. Does any of this make sense to you WH guru's? I'll add pics soon. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sparky-(Admin) 21,253 #2 Posted March 29, 2015 Yep. Its a C-162 (rare I think) that has had the decals or dash tower swapped out in my opinion. 1-0385 1974 C Series Garden Tractor C-162 8-Speed Tecumseh HH160-170019 16 Wheel Horse 5091 Mike.......... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tbarnhart 240 #3 Posted March 29, 2015 If it looks like the one in my avatar, it is a C-160 made in '74 with a Tecumseh HH160 OHV engine and 8-speed. You can tell by the raised hood hinges in the front. The hood was raised to clear the OHV engine. I can't tell you about the 120 badges. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stuppy62 58 #4 Posted March 29, 2015 Ok, so you think the hood is wrong, it couldn't have come from factory with 120 on it? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,131 #6 Posted March 29, 2015 There's no such thing as a C-162 ~ that is an internet typo. The wrong tank tray or decals could have been installed at the factory or it might have been replaced later for whatever reason. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stuppy62 58 #7 Posted March 30, 2015 Here she is, worked on it all day, didn't get it started, I think it's a coil issue, no spark. As far as what tractor it is, it may have had new C-120 stickers put over originals? 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stuppy62 58 #8 Posted March 30, 2015 Also, this looks like a 6 speed or am I missing something. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oldredrider 2,548 #9 Posted March 30, 2015 Hopefully, the "no spark" issue is not caused by the dreaded dead magneto. Expensive to replace. If so, I would find a 12hp Kohler to put in there. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dhodge 528 #10 Posted March 30, 2015 I picked-up very nice 1974 C-120, kept under a tarp in shed, looks to be completely original. It says C-120 on tins, but # don't match. Model #10385 on dash makes it a C162 & motor is HH160, which is a 16 h.p. Tech.. Does any of this make sense to you WH guru's? I'll add pics soon. That's an OH160 Tecumseh overhead valve cast iron 16hp. They put a lot of those on the old Sears Suburban's or Sears GT16's. Bolens used them a lot also after the Wisconsin's were done. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stuppy62 58 #11 Posted March 30, 2015 Not to argue, but it does say HH160 with serial #4038E. oldredrider, I hope that's my issue, I like to keep everything original. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stratostar250 919 #12 Posted March 30, 2015 Also, this looks like a 6 speed or am I missing something. I heard from someone I met at the "Big Show" said that Wheel Horse got sued for writing 6 speed on their earlier tractors, and the judge didn't understand how normal transmission terms go, and said it was an 8 speed because of the 4 gears (1st, 2nd, 3rd, and reverse) in high and low range. Don't know if that story is true or not, but that is why it is called an 8 speed. Nice tractor! Hope the issue is an easy fix! And the stickers are interesting, for sure! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stuppy62 58 #13 Posted March 30, 2015 thanks stratostar250, that clears that up. I have a Raider 10 with same gear pattern & it's called a 6 speed. I guess that's the old stuff. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chip61 658 #14 Posted March 30, 2015 If it is a dead magneto, this guy may have a solution for you. I got a kit from them for my sears SS12 with HH120, and it works great. http://overnight-solutions.com/index_files/Page391.htm Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tbarnhart 240 #15 Posted March 30, 2015 Your tractor appears to be just like mine with a replacement set of decals. The hood decals are not correct for that age of tractor either. As far as the no spark condition, you need to checkto make sure that the cut-off wire to the ignition switch is not grounded. The switch grounds that wire to kill the spark. While running, that wire is open circuit. Also, don't ever put 12v power on that wire or you will ruin the ignition stator coil. The ignition system is composed of two parts- a stator coil under the flywheel which generates ac current to charge the battery as well as a smaller coil to provide power to the ignition circuitry, and a ignition module/coil above the flywheel that generates the spark. Its this outer module that often goes bad and replacements are often expensive if you can find a good one. There are different ways of converting to battery powered ignition as well as the fix mentioned above. I hope you get it right, because that OHV engine is a strong and fuel efficient runner. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dhodge 528 #16 Posted March 30, 2015 Not to argue, but it does say HH160 with serial #4038E. oldredrider, I hope that's my issue, I like to keep everything original. I'm wrong---I guess some of the early Tecky's with overhead valves were HH models and later became OH models. O for overhead valves and H for heavy duty cats iron engine. Sorry for the bad info. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 54,842 #17 Posted March 31, 2015 I see you have the optional under-hood light system! Nice, unusual model, keep us posted as you go along with your project. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stuppy62 58 #18 Posted April 1, 2015 I got to work on it a little bit tonight. I had taken the shroud and coil off and pressure washed the cylinder fins out(full of mud dabber nest). As previously stated it had no spark, but I put it all back together, still no spark. Now I disconnected the main wiring harness and now has spark. I'm thinking that's a real good sign! I think it probably has something to do with the switch or wiring harness. It still wouldn't start though, I think I'll pull carb next and see if everything looks good there, it has sat for almost 10 years. I did put new fuel lines, inline filter & air filter on already. I think this tinkering around after work is good therapy! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
can whlvr 993 #19 Posted April 2, 2015 good chance its the ignition switch Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
userj8670 68 #20 Posted April 3, 2015 Fuel pump good? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stuppy62 58 #21 Posted April 3, 2015 Got her running last evening with wiring harness detached, these overhead valve engines sound great! Off work today, hoped to get it running as it should. I need to get a tube put in 1 rear tire & I plan to buy those 5 rib fronts from Miller Tire. The front tires were completely rotted. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tbarnhart 240 #22 Posted April 3, 2015 These earlier c-series had different front rims than the later models. While they came with 16x6.5x8 tires, they were squeezed in at the beads to fit on the 3.75 in. rims. I don't know how well the 5-rib vredestein tires will look mounted on these rim. I put the deestone tri-rib 4.00x8s on mine and I think they fit the tractor just great. Pics in the thread here. Let us know how you come out. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stuppy62 58 #23 Posted April 3, 2015 I've had a good morning, got her running, there was no electrical problem, just me. It seems it has safety switch on clutch, so all I had to do was push clutch in, DUH! tbarnhart, I took you're advise on the deestone tire, they look good on your's, just ordered them today, should get them by Tuesday. Thanks for adding that link! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stuppy62 58 #24 Posted April 25, 2015 Update! finally got it all back together and looking good. New front tires and stack exhaust. Got to mow with it first time, did a great job mowing, front tires grip nice, no sliding on corners. The biggest disappointment is the stack pipe, brand new from TSC, after 10 minutes I had to get ear protection or it would have made me completely deaf! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tbarnhart 240 #25 Posted April 25, 2015 Glad you got it running. Looks good. Just a suggestion, find a way to brace that stack without it all hanging from the threads in the head. Those heads are aluminum and not real strong around that exhaust port, and if you break it, you'll pay a good bit to get a good replacement. Parts for these big Teckys are hard to find. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites