Tall Chute Iced Up

[MAH 50]

I saw some stuff at the hardware store called EZ-slide. It comes in a green rattle can. I've seen and heard good things about it. It is a graphite paint and assume it will darken up paint but should help keeping things moving so it won't clog. Looks like it would be good for snow blowers, snow blades and the underside of the mower deck. I've never used it so maybe someone who has experience with that paint could chime in.

[608KEB 794]

I bought a gallon of EZ- Slide last fall. I have it on some mower decks. I havent used it yet. I'll let you know how it holds up.

[RMCIII 838]

I've said it before and I say it again. SNO-JET! I have yet to purchase any other product that performs as well as Sno-Jet. I went through 3 cans this year. At $10/can that is a very cheap solution to a very clean and happy snow blower. I've gotten so use to the product I can tell when it is time to re-apply the stuff on the blower and there is still no build up in the blower. The snow just starts to fall off of the distance the blower throws it when it is coated well vs. a few days of using the blower constantly.

 

Just my

 

Rob

[mey030 9]

At the shop I worked at 90% if one came in like that we pull just the top off and in the small holes around venturi small jet u can take out and clean prob gone. Blow out bowl and reassemble done deal

[shallowwatersailor 3,213]

This past winter, I used my single-stage for the first time. Besides the apparent maintenance of a new chain, idler pulley and one bearing, I took the inside of the chute down to b are metal. I then used Rustoleum to repaint it. The chute only clogged one time with EOD slop; it was more operator error than mechanical. I hae used Pam in the past but stopped taking the time. If it was too wet, I just went with the plow.

 

But I'm considering for next winter season of lining the chute with stainless sheet, Over on one of the snowblower forums, members who rebuild their machines seem to take the extra step to do this for improved performance. BCS from Italy forms their complete chute out of stainless to provide a smooth surface (no rust) for the life of the attachment. They also use small rubber paddles at the center for extra oomph to the chute They are only single stage but perform as well as a two-stage.

[Ed Kennell 35,833]

I made rubber paddles for one  of my two short chute SS blowers John. My plan was to use them both in the same snow to measure the difference.   Unfortunately I picked up my tallchute and sold both short chutes  before I got to make the test.

Installing the paddles on my tall chute is on my to do list.

Edited March 26, 2015 by ekennell

[kwalshy 225]

I have had good success with using the cheapest spray on car wax I can find or that tire foam or liquid spray that makes the tires nice & shiny/wet looking.  I spray the snow thrower & the tractor before every snowfall and after the snow melts off it from the previous use.  So far I like this method.  It makes removing the snow that collects on the tractor & thrower very easy and it prevents build up inside the thrower & tall chute.  Plus its a good way to protect the metal and paint and makes the tractor always look clean!

[shallowwatersailor 3,213]

It is Winter and some of my time lately has been spent on one of the snowblower forums. I have had additional thoughts on lining the chute. Yamaha manufacturers walk-behind snowblowers that are not imported to the USA. One thing that they do is line the rear of thechute with a teflon plastic. There is a supplier on the popular auction site that sells UHMW sheets. The thinnest that they sell is 1/16" which might be able to be bent to conform with the chute.

 

 

The other thought I have had is to see if there is a way to eliminate the "step" at the throat of the chute. If you look at how the snow exits the auger housing/bucket, the snow is directed to the rear portion of the chute. It seems that some snow is allowed to tumble at that point which leads to clogging with wet snow. The UHMW could be spaced out from the rear metal to allow a smoother transition.

[doc724 924]

I have two single stage tall chute blowers, one on my 416H and one on the 520xi.   Both of them have the 10 inch tall deflector at the exit of the blower housing that works really well if the snow is dry.  It plugs solid if the snow is very wet.  In the storm we had in MA 8 days ago, on my 416, it plugged so solid that the auger plugged and stopped turning.  Had to take out the 5xi to finish the job.

 

My corrective action was to take out that 10 inch deflector on both blowers.  Although we have not had another wet sloppy mess, what we had this past monday was wet snow close to the ground and fluffy on top.  No plugging, but without that deflector, the throwing performance is not as far (the plume starts to disperse as soon as it leaves the auger).  I  have been thinking of a way to put the deflector back with maybe one friction bolt on each side on the bottom so that when the wet snow comes, you can pivot it forward.   No success on that idea-too cold.  Seems like a nice summer type project.

[shallowwatersailor 3,213]

Don, I agree that the deflector seems to be a double edge sword, needed for distance but an obstruction with wet snow. My thoughts are that the smoother the transition the less friction is created. If you look at the Yamaha photo closely, it appears that the liner conforms to the throat. There isn't a deflector but it does have a guard across the throat, I assume, to prevent large projectiles or a hand going down it. Granted this is a two-stage blower[. The clogging of wet snow seems to affect the single-stage snowthrower more. Maybe a liner would alleviate the use of a spray.

[doc724 924]

The other problem with the deflector is that it is tipped inward a bit.  As a result, the area at the outlet of the deflector is smaller than the area where the snow exits the auger.  The inlet and exit cannot be made equal in area the way the deflectors are designed unless the bottom of the deflector is shaved off a bit (it currently rides on the rotating base gear) or if it is mounted a bit higher up so it can be pivoted forward.  I did not measure it, but I would guess it is at least a 10% reduction in area.