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formariz

RJ improved front axle/steering assembly

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formariz

Sometime last year I scored this custom made front axle assembly for an RJ. Supposedly made by a machinist, this thing is not only solid but incredibly precise without any play whatsoever. Wheels sit absolutely straight without the usual negative camber. The wheel holding method probably the best I ever came across, no tools needed,really easy to take out wheel, and no washers needed since the slotted nuts, allow for a wide range of adjusting. Missing was the steering link. Standard one would not work so I had to fabricate that whole part of it. Awsome steering now. No play in any way really tight and precise steering .

 

Another great improcement on it is that where it mounts to frame it has a hardened insert. On old axle that hole was already greatly enlarged and out of round. Who ever made it sure thought of everything.

 

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Edited by formariz
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Lane Ranger

Glad to see another Red Square member got that off of Ebay! 

 

I was bidding against you and when I saw it I thought it was a significant improvement in the  front  axle and steering setup on the RJ !

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neil

Maybe you could copy this procedure & remake them , could make a small fortune, I'm sure there would be plenty of buyers here on Redsquare, I for one would order a set.

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AMC RULES

Looks well made.  

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mels

Yup, pretty beefy.

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formariz

Glad to see another Red Square member got that off of Ebay! 

 

I was bidding against you and when I saw it I thought it was a significant improvement in the  front  axle and steering setup on the RJ !

 

Sorry Lane. I was surprised that I got it so cheap. I think it was around $50.00 I got it for.

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Coadster32

Nice find and upgrade.

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Don1977

If I was going to build a new front axle for an RJ I would lean the up right in 15 degrees and back 10 degrees.

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formariz

If I was going to build a new front axle for an RJ I would lean the up right in 15 degrees and back 10 degrees.

That probably would give it a better ride? I think that whoever built this one, one of his intentions was also to make it look as "stock" as possible. At first glance it is really not too obvious that it has something different on it.

 

It would be pretty cool if this was made by a Redsquare member. So, if you are out there please come foward and take credit for this awsome piece of work.

Edited by formariz

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ronhatch

I hate to rain on anyone's parade but, whoever made this didn't understand front end geometry.  Like Don said, the spindle pivot on each end of the axle should be angled in so if you drew an imaginary line through the middle of the bushing, the line would be in the middle of the tire where it touches the ground. Some of the reasons for this is; (1) it takes a lot of strain off the steering gear, spindles/ bushings, (2) it steers a lot easier and (3) if you hit a hole or bump with one of the front wheels, it wouldn't rip the steering wheel out of your hands. Sometimes the wheels are angled in at the bottom slightly to help put that imaginary line in the middle of the tire.

 Also, the wheels should be in closer on the spindles and the arm that the tie rods are attached to on each spindle should be at a slight inward angle (10 degrees?) so when turning, the inside wheel turns sharper (smaller radius) then the outside wheel (larger radius).

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formariz

I hate to rain on anyone's parade but, whoever made this didn't understand front end geometry.  Like Don said, the spindle pivot on each end of the axle should be angled in so if you drew an imaginary line through the middle of the bushing, the line would be in the middle of the tire where it touches the ground. Some of the reasons for this is; (1) it takes a lot of strain off the steering gear, spindles/ bushings, (2) it steers a lot easier and (3) if you hit a hole or bump with one of the front wheels, it wouldn't rip the steering wheel out of your hands. Sometimes the wheels are angled in at the bottom slightly to help put that imaginary line in the middle of the tire.

 Also, the wheels should be in closer on the spindles and the arm that the tie rods are attached to on each spindle should be at a slight inward angle (10 degrees?) so when turning, the inside wheel turns sharper (smaller radius) then the outside wheel (larger radius).

Not knowing much about front end geometry myself I do not disagree but understand your description. What is very obvious to me now driving it around, is that it is an improvement like night and day from what it was before with the stock end which of course was also terribly worn. 

The wheels are not in close to spindles because current wheels are incorrect for a RJ.Correct wheels do sit right next to spindles. Being a bit more informed about front end geometry from your description I am now going to closely compare it to the original system and see how they actually relate to each other.

 

PS: I do not feel at all like someone is "rainning on my parade". On the contrary I welcome any information or input in any of my posts regardless wether it is positive or negative. I am always open and willing to learn something new and welcome any and all comments. After all besides the opportunity of meeting and knowing a lot of great people, learning is the other major benefit of this forum to me.

Edited by formariz
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formariz

So looking at the geometry of this thing here is how it compares to original.

 

Spindles are vertical on both this one and also on original.

 

Tie rod arms on original are in at 12+/- degrees inward.(they actually vary from left to right) On this one they are both in at 7 degrees. Without taking it apart it actually looks like that part of it is adjustable, although one would have to reduce the tie rod lenght to acomplish that.

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ronhatch

Thank You formariz for your positive response to my comments. I certainly was hoping you wouldn't be offended. Thanks again.

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formariz

Thank You formariz for your positive response to my comments. I certainly was hoping you wouldn't be offended. Thanks again.

Not at all. If it wasn't for your post I would not really know as much about it as I do now. I don't have a big ego to feed, just a hungry mind.

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formariz

Maybe you could copy this procedure & remake them , could make a small fortune, I'm sure there would be plenty of buyers here on Redsquare, I for one would order a set.

I am not sure it would be financially a profitable thing to do. Once all materials are added up and one puts even a minimal amount for labor it would probably be a bit on the expensive side. If done would be more for the ones satisfaction of doing it and to enable others the satisfaction of having one. Sort of the same as with the HL-5 kits I have done.

 

I am also not sure how many people would want to change such a major part of their RJ to a non-original one despite the performance improvement. Perhaps only in cases like mine where the tractor already has gone through major modifications and is more of a "rat" and more for one's "playing" enjoyment rather than collecting purposes.

 

If so pursued probably also incorporate some of the geometry improvements suggested in some of the replies to the post? Who knows, if there is enough interest  I could probably look into it since I enjoy doing this kind of stuff, and fortunately I have no necessity of making a substantial profit on it. After all the HL-5 kits started the same way, and now there are quite a few of them out there.

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