520H quit running

[608KEB 796]

 

Edited January 4, 2015 by 608KEB

[rmaynard 16,221]

Need a few more details. Because you posted in "electrical" I assume you think it's an electrical problem, but are you sure? Have you checked fuel? What were you doing when it stopped running?

[WH nut 553]

Mine doe the same thing when I turn the key off. What do you guys think? LOl

[scotty 252]

I was going up a hill with my 520h and the fuel pump died out of no where. New fuel pump and it was on its way again. With a 20 dollar briggs fuel pump. Need more info about it like rmaynard said.

Edited January 5, 2015 by scotty

[608KEB 796]

After checking battery for charge, which it had. I checked the PTO switch and the drive switch. Then I checked the fuses(3 of them) I couldn't find the problem. So I got out a trouble light and rechecked the fuses. The 7.5 amp one was blown. I felt foolish so I took the words out of my post. Dang....I need readers (glasses). The fuse looked pretty old. I put a new one in and ran it for about a hour with no troubles. I just ran the 520H to for another 20 minutes today. I don't know why the fuse blew?

[bmsgaffer 2,052]

Don't edit remove wording from your original posts (no matter how foolish you may think they are), they help other people searching the forum later on. I just saw someone else do that recently. If they find your post and just see smiley faces they will just get frustrated, its a part of why this place is such a great information collective. You can edit with a strike out to clarify but leave the meat and potatoes there.

 

I would start checking for chafed wires. If there is the slightest worn spot on one of them it may have contacted another or the frame and caused that fuse to blow. (Or sometimes they just get old and break on their own)

 

Was it at all burned/melted looking or did it look like it just fell apart/cracked inside?

Edited January 5, 2015 by bmsgaffer

[608KEB 796]

No, nothing burned or melted. Wires all look in good shape. I'll check them again tomorrow. Maybe the fuse was old.

Edited January 5, 2015 by 608KEB

[woodchuckfarmer 333]

Same thing on the 518 in November. put in new fuses and it ran like a champ. I think they the original ones......Wayne

[kiotiken 105]

Something to look out for on the 520 is the plug that's on top of battery. Mine would just cut out and die also. After a couple times of that I started wiggling wires with the key on not running and my dash lights would come on. Then it would start. Took plug apart and found two burnt wires. Never did fix it right. Just cut the two bad wires out and connected them together. Been that way for a couple years now.

[boovuc 1,090]

I never knew of a 7.5 amp fuse in a 500 series Wheel Horse Tractor??????

The fuses in my 500 series and 400 series are either 30 amp, 25 amp or 15 amp. The fuse may have blown because it may not be the correct fuse for the circuit. 

[ericj 1,579]

not to hijack this thread but i bought a box of the wonderful harbor freight special fuses. i have had several of them melt in my tractors, so if anybody wants some fuse don't buy any of them the plastic melts with without blowing the fuse      

 

 

 

 

 

eric j

[cheesegrader 433]

I'm with Boovuc.

I don't have a 7.5 amp fuse anywhere in any of my 520's.

30, 25, and 15.  No 7.5.

Wires don't have to look bad to be burnt around the fuse block.

They get brittle from overheating, and vibration causes the crimp connectors to fail.

I've thrown out the original fuse block in two of my tractors because of repeated shorts.  Sealed , single auto fuse holders for every tractor when I get around to it.

If your fuse block looks anything like this, it is time for replacement!

 

 

[AMC RULES 37,186]

http://www.classickitchensandmore.com/wheel-horse-345-lawn-tractor-wiring-harness-fuse-block-wterm-p-1509.html?zenid=q8mi97v4193ie2r38ncgo2oaq4

 

 

http://www.classickitchensandmore.com/wheel-horse-34520-lawn-tractor-9-pin-wiring-harness-connector-p-1508.html

Edited January 6, 2015 by AMC RULES

[608KEB 796]

The fuses from the back to the front of tractor are 15, 7.5, and 30amp. That's what was in it since I've had it. What should the fuses be?

Edited January 9, 2015 by 608KEB

[cheesegrader 433]

Front to Back

30 amp for the charging circuit

25 amps for the main fuse

15 amps for the light circuit

[bmsgaffer 2,052]

The fuses from the back to the front of tractor are 15, 7.5,30amp. That's what was in it since I've had it. What should the fuses be?

 

That'll do it! Sounds like someone just switched in something they had on hand versus the right size.

[608KEB 796]

O.k. I'll pick up the right fuse. Thanks!

Edited January 6, 2015 by 608KEB

[boovuc 1,090]

Also...for Eric, the Harbor Freight fuses you have are most likely good. The fuse block contacts get dirty and create heat at the point of contact. The fuse won't blow but the fuse body will melt and it is common on the poorly designed and un-protected fuse blocks in the 500 series tractors. I had all my fuses melted without popping the fuse. The fuse circuit is good. It's the fuse block and poor continuity that creates the heat causing the fuse to melt. 

[546cowboy 302]

Speaking of fuses, I bought some and cannot remember where but when they blow they light up. I don't know how they do that but that is one of the best ideas I've ever seen. Anybody else run across these?

[608KEB 796]

I saw some at O'Reillys auto parts store today

[Save Old Iron 1,571]

. I don't know how they do that but that is one of the best ideas I've ever seen. Anybody else run across these?

 

Imagine an LED wired in parallel across the fuse blades. When the fuse is intact, the fuse element acts as a short across the LED - no lite.

 

When the fuse blows. the "short" across the LED is removed, and since one side of the fuse is still at 12 volts, current flows thru the LED, thru the load to ground. When this small current flows, the LED turns on.

[Save Old Iron 1,571]

Harbor Freight fuses you have are most likely good. 

 

Remember HF had a big recall of fuses a few years back. Seems all the inner elements of all the different amperage fuses were the same - so a 2, 5 or 10 amp fuse actually had a much higher rating than stamped on the body of the fuse.

 

A quick googling should get you to the recall notice.

[Save Old Iron 1,571]

http://www.harborfreight.com/recall-safety-information

[ericj 1,579]

thanks save old iron i believe that is the fuses that i have will double check and see about a refund or return. thanks again soi

 

 

 

 

eric j

[608KEB 796]

The electrical drama continues.  I was running the 520H tonight and the headlights continued to get dimmer. The battery charge indicator was showing little or no charge. I pulled it back into the garage and put it on a charger for now. What possibly happened? It won't charge now? I have to fire up the B-100 to finish the job now.

Edited January 9, 2015 by 608KEB