snowmoboyle 33 #1 Posted January 4, 2015 Is the carb a beast to remove/clean or not too bad? I've done snowmobile carb's - mostly Mikuni's and some small engine carb work. I am planning a set of new plugs as well, it's in need of tuning of some sort. A bear to start when it sits for a few weeks. I believe it never fires, just floods, then it's playing with choke/throttle/etc to keep it running once it pops. still has some hesitations to it early on, but when full warmed up and full throttle, in a snow bank blowing snow it's smooooooooth running! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
varosd 1,185 #2 Posted January 4, 2015 might be just the fuel draining back into the tank during inactives times. some folks have went to an electric fuel pump or a fuel cut off valve or a primer bulb. I want to try this: put it right after the fuel tank. about $5. Onan carb cleaning is a skill set that you will get used to. take the air cleaner and base, plastic carb deflector off, you should only need to remove the 4 bolts to get the top half of the carb off. now you can get to the float, idle jet. to get to the power jet, you will need to remove exhaust shields, disconnect choke cable, and back out the large bolt to get to the jet and a tiny washer. of course make sure not to drop any bolts, screws, washer, jets, float pins into the carb. installing that power jet back in with its tiny washer is "fun". some folks will remove the whole carb to soak it but so far I have not had to do that. sorry no pictures but I'm sure they are somewhere here on RS . A step by step "How to" post with close up pictures,diagrams etc would be a great post. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boovuc 1,090 #3 Posted January 4, 2015 Not a beast at all and Don nails it though I have been able to get to and clean the power jet without dis-assembling much. It may depend on the year of the tractor and if you have magnetic long handle screw drivers. You should also remove the main jet needle valve and spray the orifice out. We had another member state he simply removes the top of his carb, sprays out the orifices with carb cleaner then fills the float bowl with carb cleaner and lets it sit overnight. If you do the later, again make sure you hit the main needle valve. One other thing I do is use a "can" of air, (PC keyboard canned air), with the nifty little nozzle for tight places and spray out the orifices with it before putting everything back together. This is just in case a spec or two of debris is left in those metered openings. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
