rustykan 140 #1 Posted November 16, 2014 Is it OK to add a fuel filter to my K301? I added a Kohler fuel filter to my C-120 and I only seem to be getting a trickle to the fuel pump and none to the carb. Possibly could be the new fuel shut off I installed also. I will try and take the filter out next, but thought I would ask for suggestions first. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pacer 3,176 #2 Posted November 16, 2014 Some filters have to be installed in one specific direction - it should have arrows if this is the case. You might check it and see... And, yes on installing one, in fact its a good idea, and a shut-off is convenient also. Shut-off should flow either way. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rustykan 140 #3 Posted November 16, 2014 Some filters have to be installed in one specific direction - it should have arrows if this is the case. You might check it and see... And, yes on installing one, in fact its a good idea, and a shut-off is convenient also. Shut-off should flow either way. I did make sure the flow was in the correct direction. Does it matter which type you install? It was a Kohler for 1/4" fuel line and I think it was 50 micron or something like that. The shut off is like the original that mounts in the tank with a screen. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rustykan 140 #4 Posted November 17, 2014 Just checked and I have good flow before the filter, but only a trickle after. It is a brand new filter. Ever have a bad one? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 42,721 #5 Posted November 17, 2014 I've had some clear pleated filters air lock and not flow worth beans. I've had better luck with the red Briggs filters and that's all I use now. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rustykan 140 #6 Posted November 17, 2014 I have noticed, after looking it up online, that the filter I have says it is not for use on engines with fuel pumps. Could that be the problem? If so, which ones are? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Buckshot 1 15 #7 Posted November 18, 2014 (edited) I have noticed, after looking it up online, that the filter I have says it is not for use on engines with fuel pumps. Could that be the problem? If so, which ones are? Yes,The micron count is different between a non fuel pump filter and a fuel pump filter. I use Briggs also, red ones for gravity feed, white ones for fuel feed. Edited November 18, 2014 by Buckshot 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wishin4a416 2,191 #8 Posted November 18, 2014 I've had some clear pleated filters air lock and not flow worth beans. I've had better luck with the red Briggs filters and that's all I use now. Ditto on that. Drove me buggy. I switched to the small ones too. Mine are white tho. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rustykan 140 #9 Posted November 20, 2014 Ended up getting a Briggs fuel filter. It is not the small white one, but a little larger, white/clear, cylindrical filter. On the package it said it was for engines with fuel pumps and it worked! Thanks for all the suggestions! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wheel-N-It 2,971 #10 Posted November 21, 2014 I've had some clear pleated filters air lock and not flow worth beans. I've had better luck with the red Briggs filters and that's all I use now. Thank you for the word on this Mike. I'll be changing mine over too now that I know you have found a good solution to this problem. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rustykan 140 #11 Posted December 27, 2014 Ok, a new problem has surfaced. Haven't had much time to work on this since I got it started the last time. Started it yesterday and wanted to check the RPM's and adjust the new carb. Ran it until it had warmed up and then shut it off. Tried to restart it and it wouldn't fire. Checked for spark first and nothing! How should I trouble shoot this problem. I replaced all the wiring so I am afraid it is something in their, but I really have no idea. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,147 #12 Posted December 27, 2014 Have another spark plug to try? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trouty56 567 #13 Posted December 27, 2014 In this case I would try to eliminate the ignition switch and safety devices by running a jumper from the positive side of the battery or solenoid directly to the positive side of the coil....if you get spark then you can start running backwards from the coil to the switch......don't let that jumper on longer than needed.....could damage the coil...... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nathanielperz 150 #14 Posted December 27, 2014 Ok, a new problem has surfaced. Haven't had much time to work on this since I got it started the last time. Started it yesterday and wanted to check the RPM's and adjust the new carb. Ran it until it had warmed up and then shut it off. Tried to restart it and it wouldn't fire. Checked for spark first and nothing! How should I trouble shoot this problem. I replaced all the wiring so I am afraid it is something in their, but I really have no idea. Try checking the points... maybe they came loose and unadjusted themselves... Just a suggestion 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rustykan 140 #15 Posted December 27, 2014 Have another spark plug to try? I was checking the spark between the wire and the plug with a tester. Could the plug still be bad? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rustykan 140 #16 Posted December 27, 2014 In this case I would try to eliminate the ignition switch and safety devices by running a jumper from the positive side of the battery or solenoid directly to the positive side of the coil....if you get spark then you can start running backwards from the coil to the switch......don't let that jumper on longer than needed.....could damage the coil...... All three safety switches seem to be working. The engine starter will not work unless they are properly engaged. Is that how they should work or do they also cut off current to the ignition system? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rustykan 140 #17 Posted December 27, 2014 Try checking the points... maybe they came loose and unadjusted themselves... Just a suggestion Just checked and the points are still good, no movement. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nathanielperz 150 #18 Posted December 27, 2014 Is the engine getting gas? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rustykan 140 #19 Posted December 27, 2014 In this case I would try to eliminate the ignition switch and safety devices by running a jumper from the positive side of the battery or solenoid directly to the positive side of the coil....if you get spark then you can start running backwards from the coil to the switch......don't let that jumper on longer than needed.....could damage the coil...... OK, I got spark at the coil when jumping from the hot side of the solenoid. Is that where the spark should be noticed? What would be next? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rustykan 140 #20 Posted December 27, 2014 Is the engine getting gas? Had problems with that as you can see earlier in this post, but it seems to be OK now and there definitely is no spark when using a spark tester between the wire and the plug. There was spark when I tested it the same way when I was having the fuel filter problems. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nathanielperz 150 #21 Posted December 27, 2014 Yeah sorry I went back and reread... My cub cadet would start warm up then stall and not start up again... It turns out the carb was wanting a real good cleaning... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nathanielperz 150 #22 Posted December 27, 2014 My k301 didn't have a spark at first either when I was trying to get it running... The coil where the spark plug wire comes out out needed to be replaced... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rustykan 140 #23 Posted December 27, 2014 Yeah sorry I went back and reread... My cub cadet would start warm up then stall and not start up again... It turns out the carb was wanting a real good cleaning... Carb is a new aftermarket. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nathanielperz 150 #24 Posted December 27, 2014 Maybe she's mad at you for using after market parts. LOL 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trouty56 567 #25 Posted December 27, 2014 (edited) OK, I got spark at the coil when jumping from the hot side of the solenoid. Is that where the spark should be noticed? What would be next?If you get a spark with the jumper and no spark without then there is a problem with the 12 volt feed from the switch...or to the switch from the battery. Usually there the switch power comes from the hot side of the solenoid. When you say spark at the coil.....we want spark at the plug....with the jumper in place...start the engine.... Edited December 27, 2014 by Trouty56 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites