Ibuprofen 2 #1 Posted November 3, 2014 I've got a 42" rear discharge deck with a couple problems. The biggest of them is that it appears that the blades have worn off the threads on the shaft (unless they are made without threads in the area where the blade is). The previous owner had filled the gap with electrical tape and for the short period of time I mowed with it (20 mins or so) I would have never kniown. I didn't notice until I decided to sharpen the blades. I'm not sure if it was caused by using the wrong sized blade (hole too large for shaft) or just loose nuts that allowed the shaft to turn inside the blade. Can anyone help me with the diameter the hole in the blade should be? They seem to fit with only a little play around the threaded area but, quite a bit of play in the worn area so I'm thinking that they may actually be the correct size. The other problem I have is the mix-matched washers and nuts. It appears from the parts manual there should be a thick washer, thin washer and a jam nut. Two of my spindles had two thick washers (not sure if original or not) and a jam nut. Another one only had one washer and a nut. One of the nuts was rounded pretty bad from running on the ground and now that I've taken it off and put it back on the shoulders are chewed up/rounded and it will need to be replaced. Does anyone know what size/thickness the washers are and the nuts? Any recomendations on the worn spindles? I've run with them shimmed with strips of sheetmetal around the shaft and they seem to be fine. Should I replace the entire spindle assembles or just get shafts? One of them will need bearings before next mowing season so by the time I buy bearings and a shaft I could almost buy a complete assembly. Or maybe it's better to buy a complete used deck. They seem to be going for a little more than three new spindles would be. Or just run them with shims and let it be? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daveoman1966 3,629 #2 Posted November 3, 2014 From bottom of shaft to top: nut, thick washer, blade, thin spacer, housing base. If the shaft threads are beat down at the base of the shaft, you MAY be able to put a 2nd thick washer to step the blade out away from the beaten-down base, to where it has good threads and fits the shaft better. Of course, to keep a level cut, all 3 sindles would need to have the same thickness step washer. However, if the nut does not have a couple of threads exposed when tightened, this is NOT an option. If this fails, or you need replacement parts, contact me at my direct email, which is: daveoman@windstream.net (just clik that email link....) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ibuprofen 2 #3 Posted November 3, 2014 Don't think I'll be able to step the blade away from the base and still have room to get a nut on the shaft. The beat down area is about a 5/16" or so. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
groundhog47 347 #4 Posted November 3, 2014 (edited) to I'll try not step on any toes, dave..."s advice is good, but if you have one with the huge nut at top of blade end(1 1/8" ?) it has two thick washers instead of the special washer (thin). Jam nut 3/4''-16 thickness ? Washer 1 1/2" od approx. .150 thick. Special washer 1 1/4" approx. .015 thick. I got about four that ruined from blade/shaft spin. The other option would be to weld up eaten away portion of shaft and turn back to 3/4", which could warp end if done to fast (too much hear on one side), but may not be noticeable. Just be sure is not done in housing. On another note before you hunt for replacement, determine if you have metric or standard bearing (metric-no key 5/8" pulley bore...standard-keyed 3/4" bore)(314 deck if came with would prob be metric style and small blade "stop" nut) Edited November 3, 2014 by groundhog47 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ibuprofen 2 #5 Posted November 3, 2014 Mine does have the large 1-1/8" nut. I had thought about welding but as you stated it may warp the shaft. I also don't have a welder or lathe so, I would have to pay someone and the cost would be more than a new shaft. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
groundhog47 347 #6 Posted November 4, 2014 Mine does have the large 1-1/8" nut. I had thought about welding but as you stated it may warp the shaft. I also don't have a welder or lathe so, I would have to pay someone and the cost would be more than a new shaft. I prob confused the issue more, I believe all are 1 1/8" od nuts. The brazed on nut just below cup is one I was referring to and is way wider, and was only on early models (approx. 2 1/2-3'' od). Those used two same thickness washers and a thick bottom nut. But all in all if shaft is galled out adding a washer thicker will more than likely jeopardize bottom nut hold. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ibuprofen 2 #7 Posted November 4, 2014 I see. The fixed nut on my shaft is about the same size as the 3/4" jam nuts. My serial number says it should be a 95 model, so I don't think it's a early model. In any event I picked up three new jam nuts and some flat washers today and I'm going to try my luck with my metal shims and a good amount of torque on the nuts. Hopefully I can get them to stay in place. If they stay they are actually balanced pretty well and the deck is pretty quiet. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
groundhog47 347 #8 Posted November 5, 2014 I see. The fixed nut on my shaft is about the same size as the 3/4" jam nuts. My serial number says it should be a 95 model, so I don't think it's a early model. In any event I picked up three new jam nuts and some flat washers today and I'm going to try my luck with my metal shims and a good amount of torque on the nuts. Hopefully I can get them to stay in place. If they stay they are actually balanced pretty well and the deck is pretty quiet. Good deal, hope that works. It's a real bummer to see those parts damaged that way but I had 5 from a PO just too bad to worry with...scrap/recycle. My friend specialwheelhorse Jim made a pin to hold on hitch with one...greaseable I copied his! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pacer 3,160 #9 Posted November 5, 2014 Obviously these blade nuts have to be tight, with only friction holding the blade to keep them from slipping. My method of getting them tight is controversial, but I have had good luck with it for some 40 odd years -- I use a 1/2" air impact wrench and let it 'hammer' the nut briefly. Works wonderfully to remove the nut also... I have had good luck adding an extra washer to reach good threads... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ibuprofen 2 #10 Posted November 5, 2014 A pic of the damage, I got the new nut on last night and mowed a small section of the yard in the dark and nothing came loose (yet). Hopefully I will be able to mow with it this weekend. I did hear some vibrations and thought the blade was loose again but it turns out the headlight bracket was broken. I knew the bulb was busted when I got it but I didn't notice the bracket. A little bit of time with a welder and some fresh paint should have it good as new though. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
