My C-101

[meadowfield 2,545]

Are you welding it up? 

Edited November 4, 2014 by meadowfield

[Horse46 513]

Yes absolutely, I've seen the price of a new one:-0

It's in a fairly decent state to be fair, if I hadn't taken it off to paint I would have chased that rattle all round the tractor!

It's mad to think the the throbbing pulses of a single cylinder can fatigue metal like that. It's good old metal too, none of this cheap rubbish we seem to be getting so much of these days, from re cycled washing appliances and the like.

[Horse46 513]

All fixed and no more rattle,ready for some new paint.

And on to the next task, hmmmm what should I do next??

Edited November 5, 2014 by Horse46

[Horse46 513]

I have another question for you very helpful people, is the throttle action supposed to be stiff / tight? Most things I have come across that have cable running through a sleeve tend to be a lot lighter. It's not really causing a problem it just seems quite a heavy action considering what it has to move.

And how do I get all those fancy emoticons?

[Geno 1,928]

Throttle cables aren't usually very stiff.  Do you see any kinks or short bends in it anywhere?

 

Smileys are activated by a smiley button like this one - in the top of the post screen, click on the smiley and a row will pop up at the bottom of the post screen.

[meadowfield 2,545]

Or rusty sections...

[Anglo Traction 759]

Sticking Throttle may also be due to a dry Lever pivot (arrowed in your copied pic below)

 

 

There needs to be some friction resistance in lever operation to prevent throttle open/closing caused by vibration. Tractor look's in good general condition  .

[Horse46 513]

All good points, rusty sections a big possibility, as it's not super sticky just a dry sort of feeling. I'll take it all apart and give it an over haulin.

[Horse46 513]

Throttle cables aren't usually very stiff.  Do you see any kinks or short bends in it anywhere?

 

Smileys are activated by a smiley button like this one - in the top of the post screen, click on the smiley and a row will pop up at the bottom of the post screen.

I don't see any smilies, maybe I have to down load tap talk or similar as I'm using my tablet.

[rmaynard 14,924]

Tapatalk has it's own set of smileys, unlike the ones found on the full version.

[Horse46 513]

Tried tapatalk didn't like it, apparently using full version, but still can't see no smilies.

No bother, I'm as happy as can be

I don't know where that came from:-?

Edited November 6, 2014 by Horse46

[C-101plowerpower 1,605]

nice horse you got there mate, very fond of the 101's

 

 

 

Koen  

[Horse46 513]

Not a great deal of progress on the 101 at present, mostly oil changes and trying to get the motor to run right, I'm still not sure wether to go the resto route or just keep that natural patina and make her work for a bit.

What are these old tractors like for reliability? I have a modern ride on with a B & S which starts when it's asked ( no character though ) and runs with no bother.

Can the I expect the Horse to serve me well or best keep the other one as back up?

[meadowfield 2,545]

With a good clean carb, fuel lines and healthy pump they are good starters. Ours are all pretty good unless they've stood a few months.

If there's a leak, weak pump or worn carb they can take some priming before they start. Esp C series with the tank at the back!

Most Briggs on tractors start well as they are gravity fed and the fuel lines are short....

[Horse46 513]

I had an hour on the tractor today, and made a little mod to the throttle return. I say a mod but I'm not sure if this would have been done as OE because there is a little hole in the engine tin in exactly the right position. Picture to follow.

I also decided to wip the bowl off the carb without having a new seal kit to hand :eusa-doh:and to top it off i managed to flatten my battery from pumping fuel back to the carb.

All in all a good day!

Edited November 21, 2014 by Horse46

[Stormin 9,976]

I've fitted a bulb primer under the seat on my C-125. That was hard to start after standing for a while. Now just one squeeze and away she goes.

[Horse46 513]

Stormin it usually starts fairly quickly but that's not a bad idea considering the distance the fuel has to travel to get to the pump.

[Anglo Traction 759]

Just been looking at your pics again, also comparing the problems you have noted in the 'Engine' Forum that may help and noticed a few things that you may want to put on your 'To Do' list .

 

Noticed that your left rear Axle is proud of the Hub. This means the Wheel/Hub has moved inwards and is likely to be loose/rubbing against the end of the Axle housing where there is an Oil Seal.

The Hub face needs to be Flush with the end face of the Axle Shaft and the Square headed Key on the inside of the Hub tightened down onto the Shaft Key at 30ft lbs torque and the Lock nut secured.

 

The pic showing your Governor Arm and the Screw problem, also shows the Throttle Cable has (in the past) been touching the Exhaust Manifold and burned away the Outer Covering. This will have dried it out and rusted over the years , which may contribute to why your Throttle is/was stiff.

 

Lastly, your engine's slow response to Throttle up/down can be due (in part) to the Governor Spring setting. The spring is set in the second-to-lowest hole in the Arm (least responsive).  The normal position is the middle hole (according to the Manual). This won't cure the problem, as there are likely to be other reasons apart from the wear in the Throttle Shaft and Plate in the Carb that will need to be addressed to get it all running perfect, but may produce better responses even with the other issues .......Keep chipping away at them  .

 

It is up to you, but you don't need the additional return spring on the Throttle. The hole in the Tin Shroud is for when an engine is fitted in a different application and has a different Throttle layout.

The Governor system has to work against the original standard spring and the extra one you put on when under load.

 

Not saying remove it, but it does look like you've hooked the spring around the Ball Joint end on the Carb and it looks a bit strong in tension, maybe put a thinner/weaker one on ?.

Regards

 

[Horse46 513]

Thanks for noticing the rear hub, I missed that, I will investigate what's happened there.

I have got the engine running a lot better since my last video although with a new air filter and carb kit I'm sure I can make it perfect. ( both on order)

I did not that the old oil smelled quite heavy of petrol so I may start turning the fuel off as it may be creeping into the motor?

That spring is really quite light, the picture makes it look quite industrial. It just brings the engine under control quicker, maybe when the carb repair is done it won't need it? Have to wait n see.

[Horse46 513]

Just been looking at your pics again, also comparing the problems you have noted in the 'Engine' Forum that may help and noticed a few things that you may want to put on your 'To Do' list .

 

Noticed that your left rear Axle is proud of the Hub. This means the Wheel/Hub has moved inwards and is likely to be loose/rubbing against the end of the Axle housing where there is an Oil Seal.

The Hub face needs to be Flush with the end face of the Axle Shaft and the Square headed Key on the inside of the Hub tightened down onto the Shaft Key at 30ft lbs torque and the Lock nut secured.

 

 

 

 

 

I have checked my left axle and it appears to be ok, could you have mistaken a shadow line for a gap, or are my missing your point?

Edited November 23, 2014 by Horse46

[Horse46 513]

I have had a look back at the picture and i think i know what you mean (axle sticking out from inside the wheel?) if this is correct, then the other side is exactly the same, is this something I should be concerned about?

[Horse46 513]

Ok I think I've got my heads around this now. There is supposed to be a gap between the hub and the transmission yes?

Not on mine, both sides are snug up against the transmission. I will have to remedy this when I get five.

My other question then, does the axle have to be level as the hub or just not rubbing the transmission housing?

The reason I ask is my tractor just squeezes through my gate to the garden, I did notice that the front wheels are wider than the rears, if I take them out as wide as the front will it be sufficient ?

[Stormin 9,976]

I'd set the axle level with the hub.

[meadowfield 2,545]

There should be around an inch of space between hub and gearbox with the axle end flush.

If you don't set it like this, the set screws won't seat on the woodruff key.

[Horse46 513]

So I'm guessing I'm missing the woodruff key by an inch or so then?

I can see lots of release fluid in my future.