meadowfield 2,545 #51 Posted November 26, 2014 They might pull off real easy... However the last four I did were tough, if the hub moves in the it's likely there's some wallow which can chew things up. My last one looked like this. I had to cut a new keyway The chewed up bit can really make it bind and it takes tons of force to pull them off :( 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse46 513 #52 Posted November 26, 2014 Are you the guy who adds to the wheelhorse register? I did add my details (twice,) didn't notice the message about not automatic up date Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse46 513 #53 Posted November 26, 2014 Am i expecting to much thinking that its just a case of the set screw has come loose, and they are going to slide off when I loosen the screw Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
meadowfield 2,545 #54 Posted November 26, 2014 Are you the guy who adds to the wheelhorse register? I did add my details (twice,) didn't notice the message about not automatic up date Yes I have the up to date list, but haven't uploaded yet... Am i expecting to much thinking that its just a case of the set screw has come loose, and they are going to slide off when I loosen the screw If it's recently loose then it might slide back to the right place I've not been that lucky.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse46 513 #55 Posted November 27, 2014 Thanks for the pictures, that explains it a lot clearer of what I'm going to find. Finger crossed me thinks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse46 513 #56 Posted November 30, 2014 Bit of a mixed bag this weekend, I managed to get myself a mowing deck which is in very good condition. I also moved my hubs all but half an inch from flush, with only a bit of persuasion with a rubber mallet. But all didn't end so well as I think I have fried my starter from over cranking it, while pumping fuel back to the carb after removing the float bowl a few times. What a donk! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bmsgaffer 2,043 #57 Posted December 2, 2014 (edited) I also moved my hubs all but half an inch from flush, with only a bit of persuasion with a rubber mallet. Make sure to pull out the set screws all the way. I had this problem once, and as I was "persuading" the hubs outward the setscrew was catching just a bit on the key and stopping me from getting them any further. You should be able to get it all the way flush and make sure that the setscrew is going down flat on the key. Edited December 2, 2014 by bmsgaffer Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse46 513 #58 Posted December 2, 2014 (edited) Make sure to pull out the set screws all the way. I had this problem once, and as I was "persuading" the hubs outward the setscrew was catching just a bit on the key and stopping me from getting them any further. You should be able to get it all the way flush and make sure that the setscrew is going down flat on the key. Yes I did remove them before hand, although i didn't want to bash the hub to hard incase i detached the axle from inside the transmission, is this possible? Edited December 2, 2014 by Horse46 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bmsgaffer 2,043 #59 Posted December 2, 2014 Yes, that is entirely possible! They are just held in by a clip that if hit too hard will pop off or be damaged and you have to tear down the whole transmission. YOu may have to get a puller on it to get it the rest of the way. Im not sure at what point the setscrew hits the key, you may be fine at 1/2". Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Anglo Traction 759 #60 Posted December 3, 2014 It will be best to move the hubs out flush so that the Lock Screw makes contact with the Key as near to it's centre as possible. If you look at the Pic of the Key/Shaft in Mark's (Meadowfield) post (number #51), you will see the Screw contacts the Key just 'inboard' of the centre of the Key. Here's a rough example drawing of it- If the clearance gap between the top of the Key and the Keyway inside the Hub is too great, the Key can 'Rock' in the 'Half Round' slot milled in the shaft when the screw is tightened and so makes it easier for the whole wheel/hub to loosen when forces move it inwards i.e. turning. Ideally, the Setscrew or Lock Screw should contact the Key exactly in the centre. The Key itself should also have barely any clearance in the Hub Keyway and have a small recess milled in it to take the tapered serrated end of the Screw. Definitely only use a Puller to remove and inspect it. Clean and degrease, then correctly reposition the Hub and tighten the SetScrew and Locknut. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
meadowfield 2,545 #61 Posted December 3, 2014 It will be best to move the hubs out flush so that the Lock Screw makes contact with the Key as near to it's centre as possible. If you look at the Pic of the Key/Shaft in Mark's (Meadowfield) post (number #51), you will see the Screw contacts the Key just 'inboard' of the centre of the Key. Here's a rough example drawing of it- Hub posn.png If the clearance gap between the top of the Key and the Keyway inside the Hub is too great, the Key can 'Rock' in the 'Half Round' slot milled in the shaft when the screw is tightened and so makes it easier for the whole wheel/hub to loosen when forces move it inwards i.e. turning. Ideally, the Setscrew or Lock Screw should contact the Key exactly in the centre. The Key itself should also have barely any clearance in the Hub Keyway and have a small recess milled in it to take the tapered serrated end of the Screw. Definitely only use a Puller to remove and inspect it. Clean and degrease, then correctly reposition the Hub and tighten the SetScrew and Locknut. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse46 513 #62 Posted December 4, 2014 Ok i'll have to go borrow a puller, by the look of it from the drawing i'm probably not on the key. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse46 513 #63 Posted December 8, 2014 I borrowed a puller today, and a big dense hammer and my hubs now sit in the correct position 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Anglo Traction 759 #64 Posted December 11, 2014 I borrowed a puller today, and a big dense hammer and my hubs now sit in the correct position That's good work. should be close to having a good reliable machine that will only require occasional maintenance and lots of enjoyment Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse46 513 #65 Posted December 11, 2014 Yes I'm getting there slowly, I just want to get it how it should be from the start, then decide if it's going to get paint or not. I've got a mowing deck now that is getting a re paint but that needs the protection, the horse will live in doors. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse46 513 #66 Posted January 25, 2015 little up date, ( as in not much) Hubs now in the correct position. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse46 513 #67 Posted January 25, 2015 I started to renovate the deck as the weather warmed up a little. I found that the underneath was in pretty rough shape, after a good clean and rust treatment I have given it a thick coat of Hammerite, I hope to get another on before spring for added protection. It has had some previous repairs which I didn't see on first inspection, although they look sturdy enough, and there is no more rot to be concerned about. I got carried away with the wire wheel while doing the top side, so more paint required. I'm going to just hammerite it as it's a working part, not to bothered if it doesn't match the 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
meadowfield 2,545 #68 Posted January 25, 2015 nice welding - looks like it had some serious cracks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse46 513 #69 Posted January 26, 2015 nice welding - looks like it had some serious cracks! Yeah, looks like mostly around the crease, which I would imagine would be thinner due to the press stretching the metal? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stigian 1,234 #70 Posted February 7, 2015 As Mark said.. Nice welds I think the cracks around the pulleys are more down to stress than thin metal Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,513 #71 Posted February 7, 2015 I am a firm believer that the cracks are the result of an unbalanced blade. When I remove a blade I check the balance. If it's off or bent a check of the deck pan at that location usually finds a crack or two. Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse46 513 #72 Posted February 7, 2015 I'll check them all out just in case, they look fairly new and seem sharp enough but that doesn't mean they are balanced does it, good point. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse46 513 #73 Posted July 2, 2015 I am a firm believer that the cracks are the result of an unbalanced blade. When I remove a blade I check the balance. If it's off or bent a check of the deck pan at that location usually finds a crack or two. Garry Well i didn't take the advise of balancing my blades and now my deck has cracked in another place doh!More welding in my future for sure. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse46 513 #74 Posted July 2, 2015 Not sure if I should start a new thread for this?I have recently purchased another a C series with a big ole 16hp motor!It's not in the best shape, but the motor does run, albeit only at high ish revs at the moment, no smoke or rattles though so I'm confident it will be ok.It has had a very bad re paint at some point, and it has a dent or two. Someone has welded the hub to the axle, so I guessing the keyway is battered? All the tie rods track rods or whatever there called have a ton of play in them, and thats only on first inspection.As my C-101 is in pretty good shape, I'm hatching a plan to swap the motors, or at least releive the 161 of its for now.I felt that the 10hp isn't quite up to my 42inch deck.Should this be a straight forward swap?They look the same, apart from the 16hp being a bit bigger. The sump is the same, they are both shaker mounted.Is there anything I need to be aware of? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,513 #75 Posted July 9, 2015 I can't think of anything that would prevent an easy swap.Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
