firefighter198 1 #1 Posted October 4, 2014 So iv been working at this c125 with a kholer 301 for the past 2 weeks... Iv completely gone threw it iv cleaned the fuel tank new fuel filter the fuel pump works new carb kit every thing in the carb seems to be operational and set to "factory". new plug. new coil. re gapped the points... Iv got spark and iv got fuel... However I was still not running more than a couple of putt putts.... So I took the head off thinking it was a stuck valve, they were moving freely but they were pretty gummed with carbon so I cleaned them thinking maybe it was not seating right, put it back together and still a no go.... I'm really getting frustrated as iv done so much with no results.... Can any one help try and point me in a right direction? Oh and also it was bored out about 7 years ago it was run weekly for about a mowing season and it has sat ever since... Idk if that will help problem solve but it's out there. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ericj 1,579 #2 Posted October 4, 2014 could it be a bad plug, just saying eric j Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
skrusins 128 #3 Posted October 4, 2014 Are you sure the gas is good/ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
firefighter198 1 #4 Posted October 4, 2014 At this point I can't say it's not I was planning on getting a new one tomorrow and trying it Yes the tank was cleaned and fresh gas put in Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Molon_Labe 731 #5 Posted October 4, 2014 Don't get too frustrated. The first thing I would do is check the compression. If you have fuel and ignition (provided the timing is correct) the only other element is compression. Another item is the condenser which can cause a no-start condition. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
firefighter198 1 #6 Posted October 4, 2014 I haven't checked compression what is "normal" for k301? And if the condenser is bad wouldn't I nit have spark Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 16,344 #7 Posted October 4, 2014 Tough to check compression since that engine has automatic compression release. You may get readings anywhere in a range from 60 psi to 100 psi. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Catmanii 36 #8 Posted October 4, 2014 Take the plug out, put the wire back on it and ground it to the head. Turn the engine over and see it the plug is actually firing. No spark, bad plug. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
firefighter198 1 #9 Posted October 4, 2014 We'll in that case yes I have spark and a good plug. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 16,344 #10 Posted October 4, 2014 Will it start and run briefly if you spray starter fluid into the throat of the carburetor? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Catmanii 36 #11 Posted October 4, 2014 Easy way to check compression is just put your thumb over spark plug hole. Should try to push your thumb off. At lest you can tell if you have some compression, just wont know how much. With spark, gas and compression, should run. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
firefighter198 1 #12 Posted October 4, 2014 It runs briefly just on choke Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 16,344 #13 Posted October 4, 2014 My question about starter fluid is meant as a test to see if the carburetor is the problem, or electrical is the problem. If the engine will start and run as long as starter fluid is being sprayed into the throat of the carburetor, that rules out electrical issues, and usually means to me that you have a problem with your fuel system. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
firefighter198 1 #14 Posted October 4, 2014 Oh sorry over thought that.... No spraying starting fluid still doesn't make a difference it's still 1-3 fires and dies out Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
skrusins 128 #15 Posted October 5, 2014 In agreement with others it's fuel related. Maybe fuel pump or carb. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
firefighter198 1 #16 Posted October 5, 2014 It's defiantly getting fuel I believe it's electrical now... And any diagrams or help would be very helpful Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
km3h 543 #17 Posted October 5, 2014 Some things to try. First, if you can, use a spare fuel tank and bypass the fuel pump. Hook it directly to the carburetor and gravity feed it. It may surprise you and run. Don't want to do that, remove the fuel line from the fuel pump and turn the engine over. Fuel should spurt out of the pump several feet or more. If it doesn't, the pump is bad. If after testing, you find that it doesn't start, check the timing by removing the flywheel. You are looking for a bent key. It only has to be off a slight bit to cause problems. Or take a spray bottle and put some gas in it. Spray fuel directly down the carburetor throat. Keep spraying it to see if the engine will run longer. If it does, you have a fuel problem. Hard to tell from here if you did a good job on the carburetor. The float needle could be stuck. By the way, starter fluid is not good for these engines, even in small amounts. It is usually ether and is very high in octane. Just use a squirt bottle with regular gas. It will do the same job and not damage your engine. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
firefighter198 1 #18 Posted October 5, 2014 Okay I will defiantly try all of these things! Thank you for a starting point I will keep you posted 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ethan and Randies horses 65 #19 Posted October 8, 2014 is the fuel on? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,571 #21 Posted October 8, 2014 (edited) If you would like to pursue the electrical angle on troubleshooting... 1/ temporarily place a jumper wire between the battery (+) and the coil (+) - this removes any intermittent electrical connection to the coil 2/ make sure condenser is attached to the (-) post of the coil - if attached to the (+) post, spark will be present but will be short in duration and very weak, the engine may start but will not run well or accelerate properly 3/ check points gap and clean points contacts. 4/ check wiring from points to coil (-) Edited October 9, 2014 by Save Old Iron Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
firefighter198 1 #22 Posted October 8, 2014 I will try this and see what happens Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fordiesel69 271 #23 Posted October 8, 2014 Follow Save Old Irons advice to the letter. Your issue has drug on too long without you having success. In addition to his advice, set and clean points to .018, I dont; see where you mentioned the spec. Use a genuine NGK or H10C champion. Do not under any circumstances use a cheap small engine plug. I did this and embarassed myself for a few hours worth of troublshooting down the drain.You may as well replace the condensor if you replaced the coil. Also if you ever left power going to the coil for more than 5 minutes without the engine running, it will be junk. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 16,344 #24 Posted October 8, 2014 Also if you ever left power going to the coil for more than 5 minutes without the engine running, it will be junk. Correction if I may...power left on to the coil will only damage it if the points are closed. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fordiesel69 271 #25 Posted October 8, 2014 Yes. But you know they are always closed when you accidently leave it on. Murphys law! 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
