Help me. GT 14 sparks when key turns off, not on. Crossed wires? Point gap?

[Erik the Red 0]

So I am new here, and only handy with mechanics. I have been throwing parts at this GT 14 trying to get spark. I bought it cheap as it didn't spark. Got new points(gapped em n cleaned em)new condensor, new coil, coil wire, and new key ignition(that was tough to find). Still no start with starting fluid. I pulled the plug to check for spark and noticed that no spark at all while cranking but when I turned the key off, a loud click and spark. Every time the key turns off, it sparks. When I was doing the points, as I turned the motor, it opened the points but then they seemed to stop moving as I finished turning the motor. ? Any thing to concern myself with?? I set the gap as soon as the points stopped opening thinking that was the most open they would get. Any help would be Greatly appreciated as I know most of you guys here are wizzards. Thanx, Erik

[wallfish 17,891]

Sounds like the switch. Test for 12v to the + side of the coil in the start and run positions of the switch. No 12v = no spark. Condenser connects to the - side of the coil.

Also make sure you have a battery ignition switch and not a switch for a magneto ignition.

 

What letter is next to the pole on the switch you are using to connect the +12v to the coil?

[Erik the Red 0]

Thanx a lot. I am going to check that out after work today. I will post the info later taday. Thanx again, wish I could stay home today to check these things out.

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,393]

Have heard others state they get a spark when the ignition is turned off. Have a thought.

 

The coil normally fires when the points open. If the wire from the coil (-) to the points or the points themselves or condenser were shorted to ground it won't fire because that is the same as the points not opening. If you interrupted the power to the coil (+) (turn key off) under this shorted condition would that not work the same as the points opening once and fire the coil once?

 

Remove the (-) coil wire from the coil. Hook a test light to the battery (+) post. Connect the test light probe to the coil (-) wire. The light should flash as the points open and close as the engine turns over. A solid on light would indicate a short.

 

Garry

[Erik the Red 0]

Well here is what I have so far. I have 11.24 volts at Pos on the coil when key is @run and start. The switch is part number 101876 That was sudgested by a dealer I went to. He saw mine and said, this is it. There is no letter near the posts. If looking at the rear of switch (where posts come out. It is the first going clock wise from top center. Just right of the 2 that have screw mounts instead of clips. The electric clutch or somewhere very close clicks loudly when key turns to start position. Could the wires coming off of the clutch/fly wheel have any thing to do with it?

[Erik the Red 0]

Thank you Garry for writing. I will go out and look now. This sure sounds like a possibility too.

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,393]

This picture of some switches posted in a 1972 service bulletin did not have them identified by part number. Through the process of elimination I think this is the 101876 switch.

 

Garry