jeff w 4 #1 Posted September 24, 2014 Starting issue w/ my horse that I thought I had figured out? Usually when doing a cold start I choke and crank for 3-4 seconds then wait a bit and do again and on the third try it fires. On the 3rd attempt.....nothing,.totally dead. Did bench test on solenoid (was continuity). Took battery to be load tested and it was bad (6yr. Cleaned all grounds + new battery was set to go and zilch.. nothing. Only 1 fuse that I can see & it is good..are there other, and if so where? Again, any info greatly appreciated. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
N3PUY 1,031 #2 Posted September 24, 2014 (edited) Do you have battery voltage at the small terminal on the solenoid with key in start? NO?... do you have batt voltage to the "B" term on the switch? NO? ... did you check the Batt wire to the switch? It gets power from a connection on the solenoid or from the battery. Let us know. You may have left that wire off. Joe Edited September 24, 2014 by N3PUY Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,393 #3 Posted September 24, 2014 Download these 4 pages of wiring diagrams for the C-81 Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeff w 4 #4 Posted September 24, 2014 Joe---> thanks for reply. W/all terminated correctly.....still nothing. Howe er w/jumper from3rd post on solenoid to switch still nothing. However jumper from 3rd post of solenoid to +pos battery post it fires on contact? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 11,888 #5 Posted September 24, 2014 (edited) I'm thinking the ignition switch went bad. If you jumpered directly from the small terminal on the solenoid to the switch you bypassed the pto, clutch and seat switches so that should eliminate them as a possible cause. Edited September 24, 2014 by Racinbob Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
N3PUY 1,031 #6 Posted September 24, 2014 (edited) jeff w .... do you have battery voltage at the "B" terminal on the switch? I guess you do if it runs after using the jumper wire. Could most likely be the ignition switch. Edited September 24, 2014 by N3PUY Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 11,888 #7 Posted September 24, 2014 (edited) The way I'm reading this is that you jumpered from the switch to the solenoid and still nothing. That should mean that you don't have voltage at the switch when you turn the key to the start position. Check there like N3PUY said. I'm thinking you won't because it still didn't work with the jumper. I never like to troubleshoot electrical issues via emails and posts. It's too easy to misunderstand what somebody means by what they tried or what the suggestion to try is. You should have voltage at the battery terminal on the switch but I believe, checking the S terminal, you won't have in the start position and it should energize with the key turned to start. Edited September 24, 2014 by Racinbob Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 11,888 #8 Posted September 24, 2014 By the way, if you don't have voltage at the B terminal that would probably eliminate the switch as the problem. If that's the case, follow it back to see where you lost it. It runs through the fuse and ammeter. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeff w 4 #9 Posted September 24, 2014 Heading down to pu a new switch...hoping that will be it. Update later......may need more suggestions, but hoping not. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 11,888 #10 Posted September 24, 2014 Hopefully that fixes it Jeff. Let us know how it works for you. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeff w 4 #11 Posted September 25, 2014 Update; New switch (5 terminals) from Tractor Supply. After install, SAME RESULT-----> NOTHING!! Also, same result when put jumper from small post of solenoid to positive terminal of battery......turned over. Must be a safety switch somewhere? Frustrsting!!! 616 822 5789 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeff w 4 #12 Posted September 25, 2014 I found no continuity w old switch, but had continuity w new switch... and still no success? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeff w 4 #13 Posted September 25, 2014 I found no continuity w old switch, but had continuity w new switch... and still no success? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oldredrider 2,553 #14 Posted September 25, 2014 Check your wiring to and from the ammeter as well as the meter itself. If in doubt about whether the meter is working, bypass it with the 2 ammeter wires connected together. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
N3PUY 1,031 #15 Posted September 25, 2014 You need 12v at the "S" terminal on the switch in "start" position. Then 12v thru the PTO switch. And then 12v thru the pedal switch ending with 12v at the solenoid. And the solenoid needs to be grounded. Is the PTO disengaged? Is there 12 to the ign switch? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
N3PUY 1,031 #16 Posted September 25, 2014 Update; New switch (5 terminals) from Tractor Supply. After install, SAME RESULT-----> NOTHING!! Also, same result when put jumper from small post of solenoid to positive terminal of battery......turned over. Must be a safety switch somewhere? Frustrsting!!! 616 822 5789 Is it a switch for "coil" ignition or for "magneto" ignition? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeff w 4 #17 Posted September 25, 2014 Coil ignition. Solenoid grounded by its mounting bracket to frame. Have tested and retested switch new. Thinking clutch pedal switch or other. Quitting for night, but would like info on how pedal switch etc.....thank you kindly. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeff w 4 #18 Posted September 25, 2014 Pedal interlock switch is a possibility. Where is it located and what should I look for? Viewing wiring diagram it appears I would have bypassed that when I jumped from smallpost on solenoid to pos of battery. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 11,888 #19 Posted September 25, 2014 This is exactly why I usually avoid trying to help with electrical issues via posts. If you jumpered from the S terminal on the ignition switch directly to the solenoid you effectively bypassed all the safety switches. Providing you had power to the B terminal of the ignition switch you would have energized the solenoid IF the switch was working. You said the solenoid energized when you jumpered directly to the positive of the battery. Solenoid good. There's something here missing in what's been done. I'd suggest looking at the wiring diagram again and making sure your jumper was where you thought it was. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeff w 4 #20 Posted September 25, 2014 Thanks for the reply. Yes it was exactly as I mentioned. Have tried everything and when I jump from small post of solenoid to battery positive it turn over.Other wise nothing??? More suggestions?? Frustrating! !!!!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 11,888 #21 Posted September 25, 2014 OK. Check to see if the S terminal has 12 volts when the switch in in the start position. It won't have it in the run position, it's just momentary when you start the motor. If you'd like and are available tomorrow morning PM me with your phone number and I'll call you. It would be easier to trouble shoot talking in person. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
N3PUY 1,031 #22 Posted September 28, 2014 Has it been repaired? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeff w 4 #23 Posted September 28, 2014 Still working on issue w/assistance...has been a convoluted issue....will update soon -----> Thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeff w 4 #24 Posted September 30, 2014 Project complete! Went thru many steps, but, in the end I found the ignition switch plug to be defective (age). Therefore, I terminated the conductors at the plug, and replaced plug w/ spade terminal disconnects. Thank you all for your input,but most notably to RacinBob! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites