Zeek 2,286 #1 Posted September 23, 2014 I need to start the wiring phase of my restoration and need a little advice. The model number on the plate is 1 0311 7 and serial # is 848045 - headlights/tail light, manual clutch. This is the old ignition and dash. This is one the guy gave me with the tractor, but it needs a new face nut. A little to nicked up for a resto Sooo, my questions are: Is this the right switch before I try to either replace it or get another nut? Does anyone (like Save Old Iron) have a diagram for this tractor like the one below that Save Old Iron did - the one below is for a different (and incorrect) tractor? Here's kind of where I'm at with it Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KC9KAS 4,744 #2 Posted September 23, 2014 That is a nice looking tractor restoration. The new switch is not the correct switch...you need the one with the 5 terminals like the 1st picture. I am pretty sure these are still available, but can be bought from NAPA for less money. I have a box in the barn with the number but not close enough right now. If no-one else posts a number, I will do so this evening, Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 43,425 #3 Posted September 23, 2014 Toro 103990 will work or Napa # 7-01854 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chazm 413 #4 Posted September 23, 2014 " Is this the right switch before I try to either replace it or get another nut? " Wow been awhile since I seen one of those type switches, but don't believe it is the right one I'd go with Mike's part numbers Down load your manual for the wiring harness, won't be in living color , but will work Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Zeek 2,286 #5 Posted September 23, 2014 (edited) Thanks guys, I didn't think of NAPA. I went to a local Toro supplier who said he could get it and it would be about $45 which seemed high, so I passed until I looked into it more. It also took a while to look it up and I don't know he was looking at the right one anyway. I guess what was messing with my head was the dash plate that only has three positions marked - Off/Run/Start. Edited September 23, 2014 by Zeek Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KC9KAS 4,744 #6 Posted September 23, 2014 Just a guess, but NAPA should about a 1/3 of that. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 43,425 #7 Posted September 23, 2014 Napa switch should be about $15.00. If it needs to start a Tecky, the price doubles! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KC9KAS 4,744 #8 Posted September 24, 2014 I have a switch that I got in a "package" deal. It is from Oregon Power Equipment. The package says:...33-389....replaces Wheel Horse 103990 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,393 #9 Posted September 24, 2014 The 1972 ignition switch was part # 101917 and it has been replaced by 92-6785. Toro wants about $50 for it so what is so special about this one? Tried to identify the switches in a 1972 service bulletin and this is what I came up with The 1972b file is the one I made up. If you use a different switch I would be comparing the terminal labels so the correct wires end up on the correct terminal. Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Zeek 2,286 #10 Posted September 24, 2014 Napa switch should be about $15.00. If it needs to start a Tecky, the price doubles! HaaHaa . . . talk to the hand I have a switch that I got in a "package" deal. It is from Oregon Power Equipment. The package says:...33-389....replaces Wheel Horse 103990 Do you have a pic/price you can PM me? The 1972 ignition switch was part # 101917 and it has been replaced by 92-6785. Toro wants about $50 for it so what is so special about this one? Tried to identify the switches in a 1972 service bulletin and this is what I came up with The 1972b file is the one I made up. If you use a different switch I would be comparing the terminal labels so the correct wires end up on the correct terminal. Garry Hmm, now I'm confused . . . I thought I had it with the 103990 . .. freakin part #'s, nothing simple . . . Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,571 #11 Posted September 24, 2014 (edited) Zeek, judging by your beautifully restored dash plate on the tractor, you probably want the 103990 (3 position) ignition switch and not the 101917 (4 position) switch. Two other points. If you want to use the current switch you have, just wire the B+ from the voltage regulator to the ACC terminal. This is essentially what happens internally with the 103990 switch. I see you have a points cover on the engine so I'm assuming you have a straight points / coil ignition system on this engine. If you are rewiring the tractor and do not necessarily want to go with the common 5 position ignition switch connector, you can use the current switch and rewire using crimp on ring terminals on the back of your current switch. If you stay with the current switch / ring terminal configuration, you will may not be able to replace the switch easily in the future, unless you know where you can buy exact replacements. If you go with the more common original 5 pin connector, you will need to buy a 103990 switch. Nice clean, classy rebuild by the way. Edited September 24, 2014 by Save Old Iron Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 43,425 #12 Posted September 24, 2014 I have the 4 position switch on my 73. Kind of a pain really. Have to move the switch back 1 notch just so the lights will work. Go down to Napa and get the 7-01854 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,393 #13 Posted September 24, 2014 I should have realized the 101917 was a 5-terminal 4-position switch. I was going by his 3-position dash plate. Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Zeek 2,286 #14 Posted September 24, 2014 Zeek, judging by your beautifully restored dash plate on the tractor, you probably want the 103990 (3 position) ignition switch and not the 101917 (4 position) switch. Two other points. If you want to use the current switch you have, just wire the B+ from the voltage regulator to the ACC terminal. This is essentially what happens internally with the 103990 switch. I see you have a points cover on the engine so I'm assuming you have a straight points / coil ignition system on this engine. If you are rewiring the tractor and do not necessarily want to go with the common 5 position ignition switch connector, you can use the current switch and rewire using crimp on ring terminals on the back of your current switch. If you stay with the current switch / ring terminal configuration, you will may be able to replace the switch easily in the future unless you know where you can buy exact replacements. If you go with the more common original 5 pin connector, you will need to buy a 103990 switch. Nice clean, classy rebuild by the way. Sounds good, thanks for the info and compliment I have the 4 position switch on my 73. Kind of a pain really. Have to move the switch back 1 notch just so the lights will work. Go down to Napa and get the 7-01854 I plan on stopping this week, thanks Squonk. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites