The puller that just won't #!*%ing cooperater

[poodle 0]

hey guys It's the 1056 puller I'm building again I managed to build the weelie bars and hitch in time for the pull but thats about all thats gone right I made it to the pull and things seemed good but when it was my turn to run every thing started on the down slide the chain tighten and the flag waved and whats that smell?but my belt it it just sliped and burnt !! well thanks to the friendly tractor comrodery I made some friends that were more than willing to help and give some tips to the rookie so I followed Adam's advice who was runnnig a modifeid raider 10 with a 8 speed and a old techumsa (a fellow WheelHorse man) I added a tentioning pully so the slip up wouldent happen again after I fired it up and drove around but beacuse it was late I didn't rev her up so to bed i when't and today after work I wanted to give it a real test run and she sputered died and I she hasn't done anything eles she has good comprestion,spark, and fresh 93 whats going on is there a good way to check timing ? it should run right or am I :imstupid: more than i thought please help it has the kholer k241 10hp please

[linen beige 15]

I'd start by checking for a sheared flywheel key. By giving it a real test run do you mean you "snatched" a load? If so, the shock may have sheared the key.

A sheared flywheel key would knock it out of time, and she would probably sputter to a stop. You would still have compression and spark, but not at the right time. Your points should just start to open at about 20 deg.s before top dead center. There should be a hole in the blower shroud that lets you see the flywheel. Turn it slowly until you find the timing marks (They will be marked either "S" or "SP".) Of course, if you can turn the flywheel without turning the crankshaft, the key is obviously sheared. The points should be just opening when this mark is centered in the hole. If not, then either the key has sheared or the point gap is way off. Check the key and replace it if sheared. Set your point gap and hook up a timing light. Start her up and watch the mark through the sight hole. open or close the points slightly to get her perfectly timed. Let us know what you find.

[TT-(Moderator) 1,162]

The flywheel on a 1056 doesn't have anything to do with the ignition timing. It's battery ignition and the points are operated by the lobe on the camshaft.

Gapping the points to .020" is a static setting meant to enable the engine to run. Further adjustment can be done with a timing (strobe) light per the instructions on page 8.2 of the Kohler Manual TP-2379. (available for free download at kohler.com)

There are far too many variables to diagnose a problem like yours via an internet forum. Theoretically, if you have compression, spark, and fuel AT THE PROPER TIMES, the engine should run.

[baerpath 517]

Sounds like a fuel problem to me

If it's when you throttle up I would look towards a fuel problem. I would start at the fuel tank fitting, fuel line (a soft hose will collapse if the tank vent is plugged), Have you checked the fuel pump ( an easy test is bypass the pump and hook directly to the carb while preasuring the tank slightly with air) Clean the carb and check the jets , Check the air filter.

Thats a start.

Duane

[linen beige 15]

The flywheel on a 1056 doesn't have anything to do with the ignition timing. It's battery ignition and the points are operated by the lobe on the camshaft.

Gapping the points to .020" is a static setting meant to enable the engine to run. Further adjustment can be done with a timing (strobe) light per the instructions on page 8.2 of the Kohler Manual TP-2379. (available for free download at kohler.com)

There are far too many variables to diagnose a problem like yours via an internet forum. Theoretically, if you have compression, spark, and fuel AT THE PROPER TIMES, the engine should run.

Attention folks!

Sleep deprivation is a terible thing!

Thanks for pointing out my huge blunder Terry.

I'm way too accustomed to working on the magneto ignitions when it comes to small engines. But even then, the ponts aint affected by the flywheel key on the K series, the cam opens their points too. It only effects the magneto orientation, which is not a concern on this engine's ignition.

It does sound like it could very well be a timing issue, but, as TT said, there are a lot of variables that make it next to impossible to diagnose here.

[poodle 0]

thanks guys all I have to say is it really stumped me too as baerpath said about fuel That was the frist thing I checked it has fresh 93 in it and I checked and cleared the jet pin for giggles but the worst part of it all is it ran fine the night before and the next day she started and then just died and wouldent restart but after talking to my nieghbor who's a mechanic he said the same CHECK THE FLYWHEELKEY and thats what my plan for saturday is when it comes to what linen beige said about snachthed load? never heard that term before but what I meant was I started it up the night I put the tenioning pully on to see just how much bounce or play it took out of the belt and I because it was late I shut it of and after work the next day I was hoping to start her up and give her a test pull by draging some cinder blocks on a palet but I didn't get the chance because it would run but I'm gona look at the flywheel and the key and I'll let you know how it turns out all but I hope it's just as easy as the key and maybe playing with the gap on the points

[poodle 0]

okay guys this is the up to date DL I took the fly wheel of to find absolutely nothing wrong with the key or keyways i then proceeded to increase my search and level of ticked off to include the points but after cleaning them so see if it would help anything and reciveing nothing I remebered another engine that I had haveing a the exaust valuve get stuck open just a crack so I opened the head and found the valves working proper but then check TDC with the points and low and behold they broke way to late like 40 degrees into the what was suposed to be the power stroke I remebered what linen beige said and adjusted them to about degress before TDC in hope it woould run but I was doing it by eye becase I don't have any timeing tool's now remember I'm a newbie and used to cars so to adjust timing I'm used to just turning the distirbuter to retard or advance the timing so it does run now but skip's a bit I need some advice on the best way to set the timing without many tools or to don's repair she'll go and I'll just front the bill

[linen beige 15]

Like TT said, just gap them at twenty thousandths. rotate the flywheel until the points are full open and adjust the gap. That's usually pretty close to dead on, so that they open at 20 degrees before top dead center, and stay open long enough to give you the right dwell angle. Increasing the gap advances the timing, and decreases dwell. Decreasing it retards timing, and increases dwell. If you had to clean them off to make it run, they should be replaced. And replace the condensor while you're there. If it's bad, it can make the engine misfire, and will burn the points.