km3h 543 #26 Posted September 8, 2014 How about this. Part number 71-6380. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Theroundhousernr 589 #27 Posted September 8, 2014 (edited) Since you say both coils test fine. I would not worry about the coil. Go to the post Martin put up again and read the step by step instructions I posted on testing the module outside of the flywheel. If you follow these instructions, you will know if the ignition module is the culprit. There should be a better test for the ignition module but I know of none right now. I am working on it. The Kohler iginiton module from back in the 70's you could test with a flash light tester and a screw driver. But that was a different animal. "SCR" I think the onan is something along the lines of a Hall Effect sensor.... I think.... lol Give it a try. Worked for me! Kyle Edited September 8, 2014 by Theroundhousernr Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jess 29 #28 Posted September 8, 2014 How about this. Part number 71-6380. yes that is it! with the to wires coming out of it. Is this for a wheel horse 518H onan motor? and can this be cross reference with some generic type (Cheeper) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Theroundhousernr 589 #29 Posted September 8, 2014 (edited) Since you say both coils test fine. I would not worry about the coil. Go to the post Martin put up again and read the step by step instructions I posted on testing the module outside of the flywheel. If you follow these instructions, you will know if the ignition module is the culprit. There should be a better test for the ignition module but I know of none right now. I am working on it. The Kohler iginiton module from back in the 70's you could test with a flash light tester and a screw driver. But that was a different animal. "SCR" I think the onan is something along the lines of a Hall Effect sensor.... I think.... lol Give it a try. Worked for me! Kyle Give this a try before dumping out the money. Since you said they where both hooked up goofy. Worth a shot. Even though you read 10ohms. It just could have been where the magnet on the rotor was sitting at the time. But if you don't want to tear into it again. I understand. No cheaper alternative that I know of that wouldnt require allot of modification. Some Onans have the points just capped off with a steel plate. But I dont think you could fit them under the exhaust of a wheel horse. I would stay away from used ignition modules. You never know how long a used one will last. Just spend the money on a new one. Get it from onanparts.com, Ebay Or Boomer, A member on here. I know..... I just installed one on my 416H but it was just to get it running to figure out why it was smoking. I had one laying around. Turns out it was just bad/wrong gas that someone put it. You know the saying , Do as I say and not as I do lol Edited September 8, 2014 by Theroundhousernr Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
km3h 543 #30 Posted September 8, 2014 I don't know if a substitute part would work or not. Holy crap that thing is expensive. I've bought whole tractors for less than that with running Onan engines in them. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jess 29 #31 Posted September 8, 2014 I don't know if a substitute part would work or not. Holy crap that thing is expensive. I've bought whole tractors for less than that with running Onan engines in them. That is what I said ! The local dealer here wated $175 for the coil and $170 for the ingnition control ! That is why Im happey to have at least gottin my 520 working now ! I have found a prts outlet on e-bay where I think I can get an control for around $100 bucks . I may have to put this one back in and see if it may be something else wrong with it? Just hate to do the work twice. Thank you for your time and help Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jess 29 #32 Posted September 8, 2014 Good Morning, Do you know if I should be getting some kind of reading on my meter on this ingnition moduel/control with it in my hand? I dont want to cough up the $100 bucks if not needed? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ol550 830 #33 Posted September 8, 2014 PM sent hope this helps Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jess 29 #34 Posted September 8, 2014 I found it and it showes it is located in NE ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jess 29 #35 Posted September 8, 2014 How about this. Part number 71-6380. I don't know if a substitute part would work or not. Holy crap that thing is expensive. I've bought whole tractors for less than that with running Onan engines in them. I have found a prts outlet on e-bay where I think I can get an control for around $100 bucks . I may have to put this one back in and see if it may be something else wrong with it? Just hate to do the work twice. Do you know if there should be some way of telling if the one I took out can be tested with a meter or putting 12V to it or something? Also is ther a torque number for the bolt I took off of the flywheel to put it back on or just hammer tight ? Thank you for your time and help Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Theroundhousernr 589 #36 Posted September 8, 2014 You can test it before putting it back in. The torque is 55 ft lb for the flywheel. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jess 29 #37 Posted September 9, 2014 You can test it before putting it back in. The torque is 55 ft lb for the flywheel. ? Thank you for the torque ! I know you told me how to test the control module and I looked the the post martin has on but don't quit understand it? Do I have to put it all back together again in order to test it to see if its bad? I also had a question , my 518 amp gauge had been reading in the very high side for some time before the machine quit and someone had told me a while back that it could be the stator? Could this have been the reason my control module is gone? When I put my meter on the red and black wires it is reading open ? No resistance at all is this the test you mean for the control module ? Thank you Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
km3h 543 #38 Posted September 9, 2014 Try this link. Just be careful to follow the drawing exactly. You will need a 12 volt light socket and light. Looks easy to me. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Theroundhousernr 589 #39 Posted September 9, 2014 Perfect. That confirms my suspicions about testing. That is very similar to the way you test a kohler trigger module. Judging by the way you need both north and south pole to trigger the module, I would surely says its a hall effect sensor and some other goodys. Thanks for finding that! I knew that darn squirrel was ahead of me again. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jess 29 #40 Posted September 9, 2014 Thank you , I will give it a try? I saw on this post that some one used a magenet to trigger the module. I will try that also. Thank you squirrel !!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jess 29 #41 Posted September 17, 2014 Perfect. That confirms my suspicions about testing. That is very similar to the way you test a kohler trigger module. Judging by the way you need both north and south pole to trigger the module, I would surely says its a hall effect sensor and some other goodys. Thanks for finding that! I knew that darn squirrel was ahead of me again. I hooked the ingnition module up with the battery and the light the way squirrel had in the diagram and the light did not come on so. This means the moduel is no good? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jess 29 #42 Posted September 20, 2014 I hooked the ingnition module up with the battery and the light the way squirrel had in the diagram and the light did not come on so. This means the moduel is no good? Hi again! I bought a new module and tried the light and battery thing on it like I did the old one and it still did not light up I even printed the diagram the squirrel had on and mad sure I hooked it all up the right way and the light still did not come on? Is there something I'm missing or is it just me? I want to put my wheel horse back together should I just put the new one in and hope for the best ? Thank you guys for all your help Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jess 29 #43 Posted September 20, 2014 ?do=embed' frameborder='0' data-embedContent> Try this link. Just be careful to follow the drawing exactly. You will need a 12 volt light socket and light. Looks easy to me. ?do=embed' frameborder='0' data-embedContent> Try this link. Just be careful to follow the drawing exactly. You will need a 12 volt light socket and light. Looks easy to me. Do I need to use a magnet to try this on the new module ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jess 29 #44 Posted September 22, 2014 Perfect. That confirms my suspicions about testing. That is very similar to the way you test a kohler trigger module. Judging by the way you need both north and south pole to trigger the module, I would surely says its a hall effect sensor and some other goodys. Thanks for finding that! I knew that darn squirrel was ahead of me again. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jess 29 #45 Posted September 22, 2014 Give this a try before dumping out the money. Since you said they where both hooked up goofy. Worth a shot. Even though you read 10ohms. It just could have been where the magnet on the rotor was sitting at the time. But if you don't want to tear into it again. I understand. No cheaper alternative that I know of that wouldnt require allot of modification. Some Onans have the points just capped off with a steel plate. But I dont think you could fit them under the exhaust of a wheel horse. I would stay away from used ignition modules. You never know how long a used one will last. Just spend the money on a new one. Get it from onanparts.com, Ebay Or Boomer, A member on here. I know..... I just installed one on my 416H but it was just to get it running to figure out why it was smoking. I had one laying around. Turns out it was just bad/wrong gas that someone put it. You know the saying , Do as I say and not as I do lol Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,563 #46 Posted September 22, 2014 Hi again! I bought a new module and tried the light and battery thing on it like I did the old one and it still did not light up I even printed the diagram the squirrel had on and mad sure I hooked it all up the right way and the light still did not come on? Is there something I'm missing or is it just me? I want to put my wheel horse back together should I just put the new one in and hope for the best ? Thank you guys for all your help are you powering the module from a battery or a battery charger? You must use a battery or a dc power supply capable of over 3 amps. I'm sure a battery charger would not give you the results you expect (unfiltered full wave rectifier). Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,563 #47 Posted September 22, 2014 pay attention to the "latched" version of hall effect sensor @1:45 in the video - this is the version the ignition module uses. you must use both north and south poles of the magnet to trigger the module. bar magnets work best as the poles are clearly marked and are some distance from one another or use the sensor ring from the crankshaft. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jess 29 #48 Posted September 22, 2014 (edited) are you powering the module from a battery or a battery charger? You must use a battery or a dc power supply capable of over 3 amps. I'm sure a battery charger would not give you the results you expect (unfiltered full wave rectifier). I am using a fully charged new auto battery on my work bench. Nothing I do works the module ? I hooked it all up right and used a maganet every which way I could Edited September 22, 2014 by Jess Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jess 29 #49 Posted September 22, 2014 Went out this morning and it started right up again ? I ran it for some time and it restarted but my fuel guage and volt meter werent showing ? I moved the wiring harness around and they started working. My volt meter was reading completly over in the high side like it has done for some time now. But when I put my meter on the stator connections I have no reading ? I dont have the deck back on but I put the PTO on just to try it and when I did the tractor wants to die? I pulled the seat off and the back fender and cleaned all of the switches and checked them all with my meter and looked over all of the wiring and everything looked good and checked out. That is the first time I have ever taken the seat and the fenders off in 28 years. WOW was it dirty under there. Dont know why it is trying to quit when I put The PTO on? The switch and the contacts to it are all clean and look good. But at least its starting for now . Any ideas would be helpful I checked all of the saftey switches, seat , break, motion lever ext. they all are clean and working. I cleand all ground wires. See no breaks or worn spots on anything in the harness Went out this morning and it started right up again ? I ran it for some time and it restarted but my fuel guage and volt meter werent showing ? I moved the wiring harness around and they started working. My volt meter was reading completly over in the high side like it has done for some time now. But when I put my meter on the stator connections I have no reading ? I dont have the deck back on but I put the PTO on just to try it and when I did the tractor wants to die? I pulled the seat off and the back fender and cleaned all of the switches and checked them all with my meter and looked over all of the wiring and everything looked good and checked out. That is the first time I have ever taken the seat and the fenders off in 28 years. WOW was it dirty under there. Dont know why it is trying to quit when I put The PTO on? The switch and the contacts to it are all clean and look good. But at least its starting for now . Any ideas would be helpful I checked all of the saftey switches, seat , break, motion lever ext. they all are clean and working. I cleand all ground wires. See no breaks or worn spots on anything in the harness You can test it before putting it back in. The torque is 55 ft lb for the flywheel. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
