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PTO clevis or u bracket

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cod

I'm looking for some information on why Wheel Horse went away from the PTO bracket that had a pivot roll pin below the centerline of the PTO shaft to the U bracket with the pivet roll pin inline with the PTO shaft.  A friend was telling me that the bracket with the pin below the PTO shaft put more stress on the shaft bearings when you engage the PTO while the bracket with the pin on the shaft centerline did not.

 

So if any of you have any info to share, I'm all ears.

 

Thanks

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cod

Just a follow up to the first post but I'll add some photos this time.

 

post-10788-0-50682100-1408401209_thumb.j

 

This is a shot of the front of the rotating clip that holds the PTO bar in place.  In this photo, you can see that the pin the clip rotates on is lower than the centerline of the PTO shaft and the pin with the retaining wire.

 

post-10788-0-85183900-1408401339_thumb.j

 

Second shot shows the clip from more of an angle and it has a better angle where it's easier to see the spring pin you remove to rotate the PTO bar to install drive belts.  You can also see more of the pin that allows the clip to rotate.

 

post-10788-0-08460900-1408401490_thumb.j

 

Here's a shot of a newer version of the rotating clip and you can see how the pin that clip rotates around is now on the centerline of the PTO shaft.

 

post-10788-0-80204400-1408401816_thumb.j

 

The final photo shows the second clip but now to rotate the PTO bar, you remove the spring pin and also the silver clip under the muffler.

 

Now sure if the photos will help but once again, if any of you have heard that the 'red' clip puts more stress on the PTO shaft and bearings, please let me know.

 

Thanks!

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doc724

I'm gonna take a wild a** guess here.  Is the yolk symmetrical?  If yes, with the roll pin as shown in pix 3 and 4, the factory could have put it on either way and it would fit/work ok.  The same goes for the clip that is pinned to the yolk, the newer one is symmetrical while the older one is not.  Industrial engineers (the guys who do time studies in factories) learned long go that if you have to orient a part one way to assemble it, it takes longer (meaning cost more) to assemble it.  Make it symmetrical and the cost to assemble is less.  Just a guess though.  Sometimes, parts will have an extra hole in them to make them symmetrical (and baffle those of us wondering why that extra hole is there)

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Racinbob

I don't have a clue as to the whys but either one is fine. I had the type in pics 3 & 4 on my 16hp. I converted it to the style in pics 1 & 2. The reason being is that I didn't have to remove the yoke pin at the top to get it to clear the shaft so I could pivot the arm out of the way when removing or installing the belt. That was on the tractor I just saw again a couple of weeks ago. It's still fine after 38 years so I just can't buy into the 'more stress' thing.

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groundhog47

:twocents-02cents: Cost, my opinion  is the below center pulls the yoke out better (similar to compound bow toggle action) vs. the straight which usually has a companion spring inside the pto bell that ride in/on/against a stub pin screwed into crank and a thrust bearing. The spring /stub/straight clevis appears to end around 1978. I had about the same question as spring sometimes gets twisted up, and some have said they just do away with it altogether.

Edited by groundhog47

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aaubrey96

I had the one from pics 1&2 but then my father used my tractor and lost it and they want $20 for one on eBay and I haven't brought myself to pay that much for a u bracket. But I just use the clip and line it up before I use the pto

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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