520h will not start

[bluetuna08 0]

ok...so I got the 520 home and into the barn with a new battery. when I turn the key...nothing.

I checked sounded out the circuits and the switch is good, the solenoid is good, the fuses are good. nothing electrical works...not even the headlights which are hooked up propery just not getting juice I guess.

I jumped the seat switch and made sure the PTO wasnt engaged and that the parking break was off.

now what to I do? does anyone have any ideas? :banghead:

[zieg72 209]

make sure it is in the neutral position on the hydro lever

[refracman 167]

On the 520 there is a "gang" ground next to the bottom of the battery on the pto side. Make sure all the teminals are clean and the frame. If not it will not start.

For extra measure I run a seperate wire to the ground on the battery.

[baerpath 517]

Just had this with my 520. Had no dash lights or head lights and wouldn't start.

Cleaned the contacts for the fuses and everything works. just changing the fuses wasn't enough. Used a small emery board to clean contacts and that did it

[linen beige 15]

Did you mean to say the parking brake was "on"? It should be set or that safety interlock won't let it start.

But I'm more inclined to suspect a bad ground.

[bluetuna08 0]

parking brake needs to be set?

ok I wasnt doing that.

[linen beige 15]

Man I'm sorry! Brain bubble, The brake pedal should have a safety interlock on it, meaning the brake pedal has to be pushed down to start it. I don't know if there is a switch on the parking brake or not. Probably not.

[htopjimmy26 3]

If pushing the brake before starting doesn't work I also had the bad connection on the fuse problem that a small amount of terminal cleaning fixed. Also check brake saftey switch and pto switch they all sooner or later fail :banghead:

[bluetuna08 0]

ok...so I have been cleaning terminals and testing grounds and still nothing...not even a click, headlights dont work, and idiot lights do not come on.

I want to bypass all the safety ummmm "stuff". can I do this by wiring the to or three wire together on the switches?

I want to bypass everything and turn over the engine. how do I hot wire the thing?

this is what I was afraid of buying a newer wheel horse with a lot of electrical "stuff"

my electro and 312 are so much simpler.

I need a horse whisperer :USA:

[TT-(Moderator) 1,162]

There are 3 terminals on the end of the starter solenoid (mounted on the starter) - 2 large "post" type terminals, and one small flat terminal. Unplug the wire from the push-on terminal and use a jumper wire between the large post that the positive battery cable attaches to and the small flat terminal. If you have a good starter and a charged battery, this will turn the engine over.

MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE PARKING BRAKE SET AND THE PTO IS DISENGAGED - AND USE EXTREME CAUTION REGARDLESS!

[jake22si 5]

I had this same problem with my C-100. Turned out to be the amp meter so I bypassed it for now.

[linen beige 15]

If you jump the small terminal of the solinoid from the large battery side terminal and get nothing, try jumping straight across both the large terminals with a large peice of wire (Be ready for a few sparks when just making contact!). This, in effect, takes the solinoid out of the circuit and is easier than running a large cable from the battery straight to the starter for the test. If it now turns, the solinoid is bad, or not grounded.

Also, What do you mean by "sounded out the circuits? If you mean you used the continuity tone on a meter to check for a good connection, that can be misleading. A ground can be good enough to give you a clear tone, but weak enough that it won't carry enough current for lights and the starter.

[bluetuna08 0]

OK guys thanks for the info!

I am heading out to the barn to try this stuff.

yes, I am using my multi meter to check continuity. after checking for continuity I checked for voltage drop and there was hardly any. I am leaning towards solenoid or starter or fuse terminals or safety interlock...I really hate electrical problems

a wise engineer once told me that problems went something like this:

mechanical failure - 5 minutes to find the problem 8 hours to fix the problem

electrical failure - 8 hours to find the problem 5 minutes to fix the problem

:USA:

[bluetuna08 0]

ok...I jumpered between the terminal on the solenoid where the light blue wire connects and the positive post. I got sparks but not vroom.the starter did not even turn over. what does this mean? bad starter? bad solenoid?

[bluetuna08 0]

I just re-red TT's post that parking brake needs to be set...dang or forgot that.

ok I will try again. :banghead:

[bluetuna08 0]

we have a winnner folks!!!! this horse is not dead! :banana:

I jumpered the light blue terminal and the positive terminal (with parking brake set) and the motor turned over several times!!!

I think that now I should just clean every terminal I can and that will probably work.

what do you think?

[TT-(Moderator) 1,162]

I only told you to set the parking brake so the tractor wouldn't run over you if it started. By jumping the solenoid posts, you bypassed ALL of the interlock switches. The starter should engage no matter what position the brake pedal, PTO, or DCL is in. I'm guessing that the first time you tried it, the starter may have been a little tight. When you tried it again, it finally turned.

There is actually a relay in the starter control circuit on these models. If there is a bad connection (or the relay is bad) you won't have power to the small terminal on the solenoid. The relays are mounted near the battery and look like a small black cube with a multi-wire plug on the bottom. Depending on year/model, there could be several similar relays in that area. You will need to refer to the proper schematic to identify the starter relay on you particular tractor.