Foozerush 40 #1 Posted July 25, 2014 Ok here is what is happening, jumped on to mow, and turn key and nothing. Pulled battery, and if your standing on left side of tractor looking at fuse block, the middle and bottom fuse both blown.... Replaced both fuses with what was in there, 25 in the middle, 15 on the bottom, put battery back in, jumped on, fired right up, backed out driveway, started a pass, then I realized I had the deck set all the way down from hosing it off last time I mowed, as I bent to raise the rear wheels, the seat switch started to shut off the engine, but I sat up to where the engine should of kept running, but shut off, turn key, nothing. Sigh...... Go get my wrench to pull battery and behold, both fuses blown again. Replace both of them, slap battery back in, fired right up. Looking down, my amp meter was working, has never worked nor headlights since I have owned it. So courious, as I was driving to the back yard to mow, I steered to the house to see my reflection in a window to see if the headlights was working, hit the switch, then the engine dies, turn key... Nothing..... Ok.... I have a test light, but do not have a multi meter ( harbor freight was out of them giving them away for free last Father's Day, and I haven't been back there since to get one) where do I start? All my safety switches are good to my knowledge, won't start with pto engaged, or if not on seat. Any help is totally appreciated. Gregg. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oldredrider 2,547 #2 Posted July 26, 2014 Popping fuses means one thing...there is a dead short somewhere. You will need to check for frayed or bare wires. A test light will help. Multimeters are an indispensable tool that have much more value than their cost. I strongly recommend you invest in one. Start by getting a wiring diagram for your tractor so will have a "road map" to follow when you get advise. It does sound like your safety switches are all functioning as they should...one headache avoided. Do a visual inspection of your wiring and see if there is anything out of order. We'll go from there. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chazm 412 #3 Posted July 26, 2014 Do a visual inspection of your wiring and see if there is anything out of order. We'll go from there. Like oldred stated ,,, look for some rubbed wires... With the batt out look@ the harness, they sometimes rub the steering column ... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Foozerush 40 #4 Posted July 27, 2014 Started to dig in to it. The wires that come off the headlight switch rubbing on the steering shaft. Thanks for the tip Chazm. Gonna keep looking for more bad wire spots.... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
km3h 543 #5 Posted July 31, 2014 Did that solve your problem? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Foozerush 40 #6 Posted July 31, 2014 Don't know!! Haha.... Had the boy push mow.... Haha... I took some vaca time this weekend, and planned to hit Harbor Freight to get a multi meter and get some of that shrink tube stuff, and work on it Friday while getting paid at home working on my WH. I'm thinking that there might be another short, just want to make sure after I get the meter to get my main worker back on top. Will update when I start poking connections...... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
km3h 543 #7 Posted July 31, 2014 (edited) I have two 416H's. That fuse block is in a bad place and corrodes easily. I just changed one and am going to have to change the other one soon. They are impossible to change unless you move the engine forward or pull it. I wonder why Wheel Horse did not put a cover over it. What I found is that battery acid forms on the battery post and drops down into the fuse block. This is a good source for starting a fire too. I had a condition where there was low voltage getting to the blue wire at the solenoid and the starter would not actuate. In trying to get it started while I was in the garage I noticed the 30 amp fuse arcing. I could start it if I pushed the fuse to one side. When I pulled the fuse and used a flashlight to look at the block, I saw a mound of what looked like old battery acid in there. Tractor only has 532 hours on it. Since I had to move the engine to get at it I decided to do the 500 hour maintenance on it. De-carbon and reset the valves. Edited July 31, 2014 by km3h Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zieg72 209 #8 Posted July 31, 2014 Look carefully at the fuse box and its condition corrosion wise. They are problematic. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Foozerush 40 #9 Posted July 31, 2014 Km3h-- my 416 model # is 73420 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
km3h 543 #10 Posted August 2, 2014 This is how I solved my problem with that fuse block. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Foozerush 40 #11 Posted August 4, 2014 Ok spent a couple hours looking at wires. First I fixed the rubbed light switch wires, replaced fuses. Sat down, fired her up, vrooom.... Ok engine running.... Flipped headlight switch, RPMs dropped, ( had it idling) flip switch to off, gave her a lil throttle, flipped switch again, can tell it labored the engine, took a step to look at the dim lit headlights, thought something isn't right, flipped switch off and just happened to look under seat, seen smoke coming from a green wire to the rear lights. Ok I got this. Took seat, pan, gear shifter plate, dash plate off and took out the battery. Pulled the burnt wire out of all the plastic conduit all the way up to the 9-pin connector where it splits with the lt green wire that goes to the headlights. I know I have to replace the burnt wire, but after I do that, is it safe to assume that the tail lights are to blame for the short? I have a multi meter now, watched a YouTube video on a quickie how to use it video.... I guess while it's apart, just go ahead and replace the rear lights. I did take some pics of what I have been doing with her. My fuse block looks fine to me, I do have a tray the battery sits in that the PO must of put there, it's trimmed for the throttle cable to go around. Any suggestions on what to do next?.... And while I was digging around, seen the pin is gone from the lift chain on the rock shaft?!?! Wonder when that fell out? I know I lifted my plow. Thousand times this past winter, and the couple times I mowed it hasent popped out!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
km3h 543 #12 Posted August 4, 2014 Looks like you found the problem. That wire is really toast from one end to the other. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Foozerush 40 #13 Posted August 4, 2014 Yes it is... What's the best thing to do to clean the 9-pin connector? The blue-green corrosion... Sure there is something out there I can spray on to get rid of it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
km3h 543 #14 Posted August 4, 2014 (edited) Try to find a small round brush to push in and out of the contacts. If not then just spray this on both of the plugs and push the contacts in and out. Then respray and use air to flush the residue out. CRC Electrical Contact Cleaner. Edited August 4, 2014 by km3h Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
km3h 543 #15 Posted August 4, 2014 Here is another good product from WD40. http://www.wd40specialist.com/products/contact-cleaner/ I have used both and they work well, Great for cleaning circuit boards and won't hurt anything. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Foozerush 40 #16 Posted August 5, 2014 Thank you Thank you. Gonna get some soon, and hopefully some lights. I remember some members have threads about what they got and use, now to do a search and find those threads...... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Foozerush 40 #17 Posted August 13, 2014 I just need some guidance.... I'm thinking it's either my hour meter or amp meter that's bad. As I tried to start it after I removed the burnt wire to the tail lights, capped the end coming out of the 9 pin. This happened as I started it up. Looking at the wire diagram I'm leaning that way.... Any electrical knowledge would be helpful.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
km3h 543 #18 Posted August 13, 2014 First, that fuse block looks deplorable. I have had to change two of those in different tractors this month. In both cases the 30 Amp fuse connection inside the block which feeds the wire going to the solenoid was badly corroded. I was getting a 12 volt reading at the solenoid but using a test light I found it was very dim meaning low amperage. If you have to change this I can give you the information on where to get it for less than $5.00. Just let us know. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Foozerush 40 #19 Posted August 13, 2014 I would appreciate the info on the fuse block. Guess i just should replace it to be safe. I really need to use it tomorrow, what If I just left the 15 fuse out? No power at all to both meters and lights. Ran out of sunlight to keep tinkering with it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
km3h 543 #20 Posted August 13, 2014 (edited) www.delcity.net Part number is 73895, it is $4.39. If I were you I would also order some extra inserts. The 4 gang part number is 7389520 and the single insert is 7388520. You will have two places where you will have to place two wires in a single insert. The first one is not so difficult as it uses smaller gage wire than the other one. I ruined a couple of inserts getting this right. Besides you may find a use for them later in another project. Do not try to place one wire in the holder and then piggy back the other outside of the holder as this will place an over amperage draw on the wire inserted into the insert. I hope I am making myself clear on this. What I did was cut the wires very close to the fuse block while still leaving enough of the color to be sure where to connect each wire to. I also made a drawing of the wires and took a good picture of them. A good crimping tool is an asset when doing this as well as a good wire striper. Check out this post near the bottom I have a few photos. You will have to cut the four gang in half and use it as a two gang insert where the 30 and 25 Amp fuses go. Any doubts let me know and I will talk you through it. Edited August 13, 2014 by km3h Share this post Link to post Share on other sites