Clutch Question

[1973Auto 80]

Hello all, Got a question concerning my clutch. This has been happening for some time but seems to be getting worse. When I release my clutch from my 73 auto,12 hp w/ sundstrand trany. I am popping a wheelie! Not that I want to, but seems to be getting worse. If I let the clutch out slowly it won't do it, but remembering to do that is almost never. I do have chains and 300# of wheel weight that I keep on. But I have had them on for 2 years. Wondering if there is an adjustment that would alleviate this. :banghead:

[linen beige 14]

Clutch?

On a hydro?

Sounds like either your linkages have worked out of adjustment, you're low on fluid, or a little bit of both. May also just need to change the filter?

[1973Auto 80]

Maybe I am describing it wrong, the brake that I push in with my left foot. I alway considered it brake/clutch. I take it that I am not correct to describe it this way :banghead:

[wh500special 2,076]

I'm just guessing here since I'd have to experience what you're speaking about to be sure, but I think you have a linkage problem on the pedal/motion control lever. When you release the pedal nothing should happen since pushing it should have returned the motion lever to neutral. I am guessing that you've lost a spring or something has disconnected making your lever jump full forward when you let off the pedal.

Get the parts manual (or go to Toro's Master Parts Viewer) and compare your linakges with what is shown. I think you're going to find something amiss in that department.

Best of luck,

Steve

[1973Auto 80]

Wh500, Yes, that is correct it does go to the neutral position. I'll try to describe this better. When I release the brake/clutch and move the driver lever forward, a little not full, it tend to pop a wheelie. I have to push the level forward slowly and release the brake slowly at the same time, so it won't get airborn. :horseplay: I hope this description is better. :banghead:

[wh500special 2,076]

OK, gotcha.

Does it do the same thing in Reverse? If it does not, then I think you have a sticking/stuck/plugged acceleration valve on the forward loop. Unfortunately I don't have my manuals readily availble but will look for them. perhaps someone else will post what to do more explicitly in the meantime.

If this is indeed the case, I think the valves are accessable w/o removing the transmission from the tractor. I will need to check this though tomorrow. Sorry to make you wait, but perhaps someone will happen along this and offer assistance.

If the rapid acceleration also happens in reverse I don't have a clue what to tell you the problem might be...

Steve

[1973Auto 80]

Wh500, No can't say it does it in reverse. That seems to work fine. Should I start with a fluid and filter change. Don't want to get too involved this close to winter. She needs to plow 300 feet of driveway .

[WheelHorse_of_course 99]

Do you think maybe it is just that the lever is too loose and therefore you end up pushing it further than you intend?

If that is the case there is a friction adjust.

BTW normally on a hydro you use the left pedal to stop and simply release it once you are stopped. You may want to try moving the lever with the brake released. This should make it easier to tell if the problem is that the lever has too little friction.

Best of luck :banghead:

[Sarge 3,462]

My 1277 does the same thing, I can actually mow with it and never touch the hydro direction lever , just run it with the pedal . Simply an adjustment problem with the nylon piece for the direction valve . There are two screws w/springs that adjust the tension on the arm , if they are loose or the nylon is worn too much they won't hold it in nuetral very well . Gravity takes over on mine and allows the hydro lever to lurch it forward if don't have a hand on it or the pedal is held down . The acceleration valves can also do this as mentioned , cleaning them is pretty easy but it's a good idea to have a manual handy for reference to the order of the parts for re-assembly .

Sarge

[TT-(Moderator) 1,129]

Normally - on a hydro - you move the DCL to the "neutral" position to stop. Brakes weren't even used until the late 70's on these tractors, so pushing the pedal only centers the DCL and nothing more. (go ahead and look - you won't find any brakes anywhere) Disengaging the drive belt will apply the parking brake, but doing this while the tractor is in motion will strip the parking pawl teeth and potentially damage the gear it locks.

The only time I ever push the pedal on any of my hydro tractors is to activate the safety switch so they will start. If you need to stop quickly, just move the DCL in the opposite direction. (the beauty of a hydro )

I'll back Steve on the acceleration valve theory, or perhaps even a severely worn cam follower. (the nylon "plate" that slides up & down on the front of the hydro pump.)

First and foremost - change the fluid and filter. Positively identify the type of fluid that was in your transaxle though. (1973 was the changeover year from ATF to motor oil and you will need to use whatever was previously in it or you could have problems.)

[Sarge 3,462]

Amen to that . The real beauty of the hydro and the design of the acceleration valves allows some very nice manuevering using reverse as a stop in a nice controlled manner . Mine is simply worn, all the parts including the valve itself . Works out good , though , don't really have to use my hand to control it , just the foot pedal .

On a side note, or sort of a question - a couple of years ago I drained and cleaned out this trans very well , including flushing of the lift valve/lines/cylinder and switched the trans over to New Holland 30w hydro oil . Seemed to solve a lot of issues with low power and heating . No damage noted yet , seems to run cooler although it's a bit sluggish in reverse when cold . Otherwise, works good so far ...

Sarge

[TT-(Moderator) 1,129]

I'm sure you're already aware of this, Sarge, but the 1967 & earlier hydros can be fitted with the 1968 & later DCL assembly with minor work. This will provide the friction collar adjustment feature and eliminate the wear at the cam follower. It will also enable the DCL to stay where the operator chooses instead of having a mind of its own. :horseplay: