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Nathanielperz

removing dents

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Nathanielperz

Hey everyone I was wondering if you could givee some tips on how to remove dents from a tractor hood or any part of a tractor...

Thanks in advance, Nate

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Lane Ranger

Talk  to an auto body repair man and he can show you the hammer and dolly they use for various types of dents .   Auto stores sell these toold also and I bought a $12.99 hammer that did a great job on  improving some serious dents or metal bumps!

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Nathanielperz

OK could I use a ball peen hammer?

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Wishin4a416

Big dents or little dents? Little dents you may as well bondo or a hammer and dolley can be successful.  Big dents like someone sat on your hood can sometimes be removed with heating the area with a hairdryer and then shooting a can of compressed air over the area. The air comes out cold and pops the big dent sometimes. Do you have any pics?

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Nathanielperz

Mostly small dents here are some pics... Please don't make fun of the paint I'm in the beginning stages of a restore...

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Nathanielperz

I can't upload any right now they are too big

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AMC RULES

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squonk

The guy in Craig's video has it all wrong!!! Here's how to do it!  :)  :)

 

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Aldon

Red Green....One of my all time favorite shows!

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Coadster32

Too funny.

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19richie66

Sign up for this forum and read the thread from MP&C.This is about the best "how to" I have ever seen on metal work.Great photos and explainations.Hope this helps.It did for me.Later,Richie

 

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=182565

 

http://www.hnsa.org/doc/pdf/metal-body-repair.pdf

Edited by 19richie66

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Nathanielperz

Haha funny video I will have to show my father that one...

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Zeek

Hey everyone I was wondering if you could givee some tips on how to remove dents from a tractor hood or any part of a tractor...

Thanks in advance, Nate

 

You can get body hammers and dollys dirt cheap at HF in a small kit.  I have this one http://www.harborfreight.com/7-piece-body-and-fender-set-31277.html  I used to be in the body business and the technique this guy shows is pretty much how it's done  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GDZxecZzc8o.  The biggest thing is only do enough tapping to get the dent out.  Do not overwork it and stretch the metal.  Otherwise it needs shrunk with a torch and that's harder to do without warping.  You can do corners with the same method and a narrow dolly.  If you don't want to spring for the kit, you can always use something flat and heavy and a regular hammer.  The key is to have something on the opposite side of the hammer, not just beating on the metal with the hammer alone.

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jdleach

"If the ladies don't find you handsome, the should at least find you handy." Red Green

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jdleach

If you want to go on the cheap, with a little practice, a dead blow hammer and a block of wood can do wonders. The issue with a hammer and dolly, is that the metal at the blow site(s) is flattened, and expands. Enough blows in a small area, and the sheet metal will start to bow and distort. The cure for this distortion is a shrink hammer. Shrink hammers have a knurled face which draws the metal together (looks like a meat tenderizer).

Regardless of tools, you need to go SLOWLY, and rap the metal lightly, just enough to move it, but not distort it. I have pounded out several dents on my 312 with a dead blow hammer and a piece of 2X4. Came out pretty good, and hardly even cracked the paint.

One other thing: Don't try for perfection, you will never attain it, and will only become frustrated. These tractors weren't "perfect" when new. Many had distortions and poor fit-up due to wear in the tooling. Most manufacturers won't re-furb a die till it gets pretty awful, so a lot of "marginal" stampings find their way into the product. I have found several minor issues just with the hood on my tractor. One side of the hood edging has a decidedly flat area, where the other has a nice continuous bow back toward the hood stand. There is zero evidence of damage, so I strongly suspect it came from South Bend that way.

Disclaimer: I am no body man, but have worked with iron, steel, aluminum, etc., for well over 30 years as a fabricator and toolmaker.

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305

good advice so far , but keep in mind that when metal is dented it is also stretched. i suggest you get the book "the key to metal bumping" . it was first published in 1953 , is in reprint , and still covers the basics of working with sheetmetal. 

 

study the dent and see if you can figure out how it was put in , then do the opposite to remove. with the right tools and a little practice you can get results that will need no or very little filler

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