GeorgieB82 0 #1 Posted June 11, 2014 Hi all, I'm new here and I hope the following isn't a stupid question: I have a 48" deck on my 416-8 and I'm struggling to remove the blades, they've never given me a problem before but they are stuck fast this time. Does anyone have any tips? Also what size spanner do I need to hold the shaft? Thanks in advance. George Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrc 887 #2 Posted June 11, 2014 1 1/8 inch nut holds the blade on the shaft. you need a thin 1 1/8 inch open ended wrench for the nut under the blade. wh made a special wrench for this. i had a machinist friend mill down and old wrench just for this nut. i seem to remember around .330 if the blade under the nut is huge i would suggest channel lock (water pump) type of wrench to hold the shaft. an impact gun helps too. hope this helps you. mike in mass. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Ranger 11,169 #3 Posted June 11, 2014 (edited) One thing I almost always do is use a 4 x 4 block of wood to rest against the side of the mower deck when removing or installing a new blade (or sharpened old blade) and I change the bolt to a new one as the head on these is usually damaged or worn (no matter what grade but I use grade 8 bolts for hardness) . I usually use a hex socket but half inch with a longer breaker bar (you can always put a piece on pipe on the end) to remove and install the new bolt. Even when I buy older decks that have set out a long time this seems to work well. The wooden block helps for safety of your fingers when removing and installing. Edited June 13, 2014 by Lane Ranger 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GeorgieB82 0 #4 Posted June 11, 2014 Wonderful, thank you for all your help. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GeorgieB82 0 #5 Posted June 11, 2014 Another silly question based on this subject: Are they standard or reverse threads? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 40,970 #6 Posted June 11, 2014 Standard, right hand, CCW to remove. No silly questions on here. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GeorgieB82 0 #7 Posted June 11, 2014 Thank you, I shall be back! lol! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slammer302 2,156 #8 Posted June 11, 2014 1/2 inch drive electric impact plug in style not battery operated works good 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
doc724 925 #9 Posted June 12, 2014 If they are rusted on, soak the nut and washer joint liberally with Kroil or PB Blaster. Let is sit for a day. Try again with the impact wrench or solutions others have offered. If that does not work, put a propane torch to the nut for 60 seconds. That will be enough to pop the rust bond. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tim 97 #10 Posted June 17, 2014 another vote for an impact gun 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bigplow1 26 #11 Posted July 1, 2014 (edited) I use an electric impact and I have vice wrench set from harbor freight the heads on the wrenches are thin enough to fit the nut under the blades works perfectly http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=service+wrench+set Edited July 1, 2014 by bigplow1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Butch 194 #12 Posted July 2, 2014 I gave up on the wrenches. I went out and gotta Dewalt battery powered impact wrench. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cheesegrader 433 #13 Posted July 2, 2014 I use the same cheap harbor freight vise grip that bigplow uses to hold the nut under the blade. Just fits. PB blaster for a few hours, then MAPP torch for 60 seconds, then more PB blaster when things cool, then DeWalt battery impact driver with 1 1/8 socket. If it doesn't work, I do it again tomorrow. Eventually, it will give. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tim 97 #14 Posted July 2, 2014 when re-assembling use antiseize- makes coming off next time so much easier Share this post Link to post Share on other sites