glgrumpy 35 #1 Posted May 17, 2014 Got a C-175 at Portland with blow KT17. Brake/clutch pedal on left is broken, but looks like standard one from any C model? Is it? This engine is on rubber mount plate and I'm thinking of going to a single K model engine. Any issues here as to why it won't work? OR, should I be looking for a 18 twin say? Single is easier to find and cheaper that I have noticed. HP would be less, but OK for me, just for plowing snow. It also has damaged plastic set pan in rear corner. Anyone have one to sell and ship? OR, someone says some metal pans will fit on too? Which models would they be? I have rear gas tank, but also dipstick hole. Guess could make one or both in metal pan if none there. Not sure if metal pan has gas tank hole in same place?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
546cowboy 302 #2 Posted May 17, 2014 I have done that conversion to two C-175's. The one thing you will need is a different engine shaker plate ( the engine mounting plate ) because the pan on a 16 hp. Kohler has a bump-out and the 17 twin plate does not have a hole cut in it for that. You will need the plate for the 16 hp. As for the seat pan, you need a pan from a later model that has a rear tank. I know a 520 pan works. Both of those two I did worked out great and the buyers were pleased with both of them. They had plenty of power and no worries about loosing a rod from lack of lubrication. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sparky-(Admin) 23,147 #3 Posted May 17, 2014 Any rear metal fender pan with the gas tank hole will fit without any mods (garden tractors....not lawn tractors). If the seat pan is earlier than a 1978 then you will need to cut the hole for the fuel tank cap, I've done that but its a pain. I prefer the ones from the 300-400 and 500 series tractors. Mike........... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
glgrumpy 35 #4 Posted May 18, 2014 Got pan from Joes on epay. Seems right holes in it. Those plastic one's go for 100's of dollars on there, SO, guess I won't ever have one of those! I ran the rear on it by using my B-80 pto and the belt between them. All works and the lift too. Glad of that. Finally got the pressure relief loose and oiled and in/out easier now. Still very hard to reach in there to trun and only 5/16" wrench fits. I DID use an adjustable to get leverage to break loose, and turn a few times. Now little wrench works. Brake and tunnel tin is all in way for good shot. Can't get a socket in there at all. What were they thinkin? What's opinion on removing the floating engine mount plate and mounting engine on the frame like older models? I'm gonna look into that. Will be using a single Kohler when I get one. Have a 14 hp to mock up with. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
